QC AT deeper trans pan

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Srt10650, Nov 18, 2019.

Car Parts
  1. Srt10650

    Srt10650 Full Access Member

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    Please post reviews and pictures on your aftermarket automatic transmission pans. I’m thinking about swapping mine out, just so my trans can run a little cooler.
     
  2. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    The factory pan is pretty good and so is the factory cooler.

    The deeper pan keeps particulates away from the touchy solenoids; as an ant's ear would clog their screens and create issues.

    Any crud created by clutches, bands or (?) would fall to the bottom of the pan and stay there (in theory).
     
  3. Srt10650

    Srt10650 Full Access Member

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    I just picked up a B&M pan. It’s a little deeper than stock and also comes with a port for a temperature gauge. Here are some pictures for comparison.
     

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  4. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    Ronnie or anyone ..... the trans pan for our trucks appears to look like the old 727 mopar trans pans .... curious if they are and would fit the trucks 48RE ..
     

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  5. Srt10650

    Srt10650 Full Access Member

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    Yes, the 48re and the 727 use the same transmission pan.
     
  6. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    True dat, although the 727 used a shallow stamped-steel pan with no drain plug.
     
  7. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    And an el-cheapo' cork gasket.
     
  8. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    Yes ,, but back when mopar direct connection was operating ,, they did sell a stamped steel deep pan with filter extension with a drain plug .... I used the neoprene gasket.
     
  9. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I also bought that "kit" from DC for my '71 Hemi Charger.
    I installed a TransGo shift kit ($14.00) at the same time.
     
  10. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    I know what you mean did the same on my 73 340 duster , man I loved those 340’s .... I put 11000$ into my 73 way back when .. modified everything ... took me 11 years to find a factory remake of the 6pack edelbrock mainfold and holly factory set carbs ... summit had them and cost me just shy of 900$ for everything new ....
    it ran in the mid 10s with out using the nitrous ..
    I stainless steeled the entire dash and add a stainless console for all the auto meter gauges and toggle switches ... I use black crinkle paint on the console .. looks great ...
    add wheel tubs when I changed out the the stock 273 gear rear for the 83/4 pumpkin with posi trac from a challenger .. had move the spring plates to make it fit .. worked perfect ... found bucket seats to replace the factor bench seat and put in a B&M slap shifter ..
    I tried the direct connection purple shaft cam and used Rhodes lifters .. I used the adjustable rocker arm assembly out of a 273 cid engine , was lucky enough to find those in a jack yard , the guy gave them to me free. I added the direct connection super stock leaf spring and a adjustable pinion snubber . The list much longer ...
    I tried several 4 barrell manifolds and different holly carbs ... in place of the thermoquad factory set up .. the purple shaft cam was no good imo even after attempting to adjust the can advance with offset keys or roll timing gears and chain ... damn thing had the worst idle and very poor boggy acceleration from launch .. decided to try a crane cam ... that was the ticket .. idles great nice cam sound and ran all the way up ..
    the funny thing was I was getting around 10 mpg basically factory ... after all mods I got 18 mpg ...
    I had a rebuilt early model 340 engine with the factory forged internals ... slight head work with the 2.02 intake valves and I believe 1.88 exhaust valves .. milled the head slightly .. added high volume oil pump , windage tray and lifter valley tray ,, enlarged the radiator and add electric fan and a flex fan ... added trans cooler and dual oil filter set up ,, did some sheet metal removal under the hood , no wheel wells lol .. had the holly high volume electric fuel pump and adjustable regulator ... used centerline wheels all around ... the rear tires stayed inside the tubbed wells perfectly yet filled with out hitting the inner fender ..
    Used several different makes of headers and finally settled on aluminum coat header , can’t remember whos ,, name brand back then. Maybe hooker ... used a higher stall torque converter might have been a 2500 stall ..

    The worst part ,,, was I got divorced and left South Carolina and headed on a road trip to Vegas for the next 7 months .. when I got out there I needed to get some cash and went to the bank to find out that the wicked witch had cleaned out all accounts .. I ended up grabbing the first job I could making 120$ a week .. since I was down to 4$ and a 1/4 tank of gas ... ended up staying in my car at lake Meade near Hoover dam .. resort living at its best . Well to make this long story short ... I was driving up Boulder hey back from Vegas on evening and decided to give the duster a clean out .... stopped on boulder hwy ... dropped it into low gear and pedal to the medal I went went to slap the b&m shifter into second and guess what happened ,,,, It didn’t go into second , I think I hit it slightly off center oooops ... revs just ran wild and then the knock knock knock big knock ... yeap I screwed up the engine ... but I drove it for about 2 weeks knocking like hell .. never seized up ... ended up getting a junk yard 360 cid and had all the parts from my 340 put on it .. wow 1300$ .. decided to head back across country to Virginia then .. had to borrow a few dollars to get the motor and head back east ... the damn motor burnt more oil than gas ... made it back ,,, but that was the end of the duster ...
    oh well ,, win some loss some .... the ex also took all the cash in the both the kids accounts I had started for them.. had destroyed my credit by not paying on the credit owed that the courts made her pay ,, problem was my name was on most of it still , POS . Took me 11 years to get my credit clean ... I gave her the house , she refinanced it’s with her new husband with my name still on the mortgage .. her lawyer got disbarred for that .. well I ended up making sure my name was not on it and that I am not going to be responsible for anything ... it was agreed and a done deal ,,, so she refinanced again ... then couldn’t make payments and oh my it was for closed on . I’ve always said what goes around comes around ... and it really did with her ... more to it .. but enough is enough ...
     
  11. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Sounds like you went through a few "character-building experiences" for sure!

    Autometer = The death of the Sun Supertach, that had everyone believing their stock 318 would rev to 6500. ;)
    The adjustable 273 rockers were a go to for the 340/360, and worked.
    So did the Super-Stock suspension with the long-shocks (from a 1971 Imperial I believe), special leaf spring setup and adjustable pinion snubber.
    I actually was able to get the Carter Thermoquad to work really well which took some time, but I liked them. I used a 1000 cfm one for years on a 440 I built. As they used an "air-door" it only used a fraction of that 1000 cfm but their triple boost venturi (primary) setup worked very well.

    I had a Mopar cross-ram intake (magnesium) on my 426 with (2) 780 Holleys. It was a thing of beauty! Too much intake for the application but it looked cool!

    Crane was a BIG player in the camshaft arena. I often paid hefty long-distance charges to talk to their tech guys to bounce ideas back and forth.

    Mid 10s was super-quick (your car).

    I remember when 13 second "race cars" were quite often trailered.

    The gas mileage often went UP when properly modifying engines. My truck gets better mileage now than it ever did.
    It works well but has taken some thought, time and cash to get it there.
     
  12. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    Oh yeah ,, I have plenty of character .. live and learn .. or at least try to !

    that duster was the most fun car I ever owned ... I loved my 340 duster
     
  13. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    I've built several 340s over the years.
    They are definitely fun.
    The poor 360 got a bad rap but get the compression up to a performance level, zero deck them and they become a very torquey "340".
    Definitely enough torque to run 11s (even at higher altitudes) in a lighter short box 1/2 ton.
     
  14. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Oh, and some head porting for that 340/360 (as the stock heads had very little going for them). Or better yet, an aftermarket performance head of some nature to complete the package.
     
  15. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    dorect connection had the W-2 heads in several configurations of mods .... those would have been the ticket ...
    the 318 and 360 cid engine both benefit from installing the 340 head ... almost everything was interchangeable .. the 340s had the 2.02 intake valves and the 318 and 360 the smaller , I believe 1.88 ... just gasket matching of the intake and exhaust ports helped on the 340... a slight polishing helped also .. the kind that didn’t take heavy meat out of the ports .... 3 angle valve job and milling the head .10 helped also .. on problem was the earlier 340s had the higher compression but with forged internals ..milling boost the compression ratio up a touch more ... but then again you didn’t have to worry about lower octane fuel ... I want Sunoco 280 back lol. And leaded fuel help .. I believe the compression was 10.2 to 1 or 10.5 to 1 on the early 340 ... I think in 1972 or 73 it was lowered to 8.5 ...
    The 8 3/4 pumpkin read end came in the earlier models and they change that to the 8 1/4 rear which had a cover on it .. gear ratios where also changed between early models ... pumpkins were 3.23 and later rears were 2.73 if memory serves me correct ... that was what gave me the biggest gas mileage increase , changing the rear gears ..actually I couldn’t even believe the difference I got lol. ... more power and better gas mileage equals efficiency...

    years ago I asked a couple times on here about ways to improve the mileage and increase performance at the same time .... the main answer was get a Prius lol. .. funny how know people are saying they get better gas mileage with a forced induction system of some kind .. interesting how that works ,,,, all about improved fuel burn efficiency... funny how no one who answered my question new about efficiency even though I stated the word. And I’m still wondering how to improve the miles per gallon on a naturally aspirated engine in the trucks and still gain power ... it can be done !
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2019
  16. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Getting the compression up is a big one either mechanically and/or a cam choice that builds cylinder pressure in the rpm range of concern. I had my cam ground on a 115 lsa which favours lower rpm torque (cylinder pressure) over peak horsepower numbers, that I personally couldn't care less about. I also have a custom piston top that provided squish/quench with the Striker chamber. The block was also zero-decked to maximize this advantage
    Strikers already use a fast-burn chamber but when coupled with squish/quench, it compresses the charge, makes the mix easier to light off and reduces the chance of lighting the end gases prematurely (detonation). All these things add to efficiency. For example a D-piston top doesn't work with the Strikers and is relatively easy to see why. Mine are more of a reverse image of the combustion chamber as the piston top BECOMES an integral part of the combustion chamber.
    Another big one is keeping the primary size on the small side so reversion can work and NOT overscavenge during overlap so the mix doesn't leave the cylinder and be wasted.
    We want the fuel to be burned inside the engine!
     
  17. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    I know you said you got much better mileage than most with the natural aspirated engines ,,, mine for example gets maybe 14.2 at its best highway reading .... around town I’m around 8.5 to 9.3 max without putting my foot in it ... it’s obvious when I hit it hard it’s rich .. I get some black smoke exhausting at first ... just blowing it out ocifer ...
     
  18. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    True Hemis (not like my 5.7) had great volumetric efficiency but poor combustion efficiency. They needed considerable spark advance to produce power. But because they had NO squish or quench, were hard on plugs (no cooling) and to get cylinder pressure up on those was a catch 22 because of detonation issues. NOT talking about high revving motorcycles (sport bikes) nor top fuel here. Bike chambers are so small in comparison to a 426 and revved so bloody high, they really dont have time to detonate. Top fuel isn't concerned with longevity.
    But combustion is huge. Turning as much of the fuel into power production as possible while using the smallest amount of fuel will deliver good mileage.
     
  19. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Not sure about much better mileage than most (?),
    as it wasn't built for mileage but it certainly is 4-5 mpg better than when it was new plus it makes 300 more horsepower than it did.
     
  20. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    The bigger injectors likely aren't helping mileage either.