Starting Problem

[Tiny]

Hello,

I have 2005 SRT 10 and we just got it back after spending 2 months in the shop having the rearend replaced. We picked it Wednesday with no issues, drove it Thursday, Friday and Saturday without issue. Sunday morning, drove to the store and back, then about an hour, it wouldn't start! We got a new battery just before it went in the shop and went and exchanged it today but it still won't start. When we press the start button, it just clicks. Tried multiple keys and the odometer displayed: 'done'. Anything like this happen to anyone else? Thoughts on what I should check/try?

 

[VIPR PWR]

Test the battery ,,sitting for 2 months may have caused the new battery to have problems . Make sure it’s fully charged ..

What exactly happens when you push the go button ?

Just because it’s new doesn’t make it good !

 

[VIPR PWR]

Check and make sure all connections are clean and tight

 

[VIPR PWR]

Check relay and fuses .....

 

[Tiny]

We put the battery on a charger over night and from the display on the charger, it didn't appear to be holding a charger so my wife exchanged it for a new one and still no go. When I push the start button, the dash lights dim and it clicks. Read on another forum to try different keys so I tried my wifes key and with her key, the odometer displayed, DONE when I turned it and pressed start along with dimming dash lights and a click.

 

[Tiny]

Will check the fuses when I get home from work. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[VIPR PWR]

We put the battery on a charger over night and from the display on the charger, it didn't appear to be holding a charger so my wife exchanged it for a new one and still no go. When I push the start button, the dash lights dim and it clicks. Read on another forum to try different keys so I tried my wifes key and with her key, the odometer displayed, DONE when I turned it and pressed start along with dimming dash lights and a click.

Verify the new battery is full charge and reads 12 volts on a volt meter. Verify the battery cells have enough water (use distilled water only if needed. verify the new battery can pass a load test ( load tester required ) , poor mans load test .. voltmeter ,, connect the volt meter and see if it’s 12 volts ,, while still connected have someone push the start button see what the volt meter reads then ..
like I said just because you buy something new , doesn’t mean it’s good ! I learned that the hard way lol years ago.. batteries you buy may have been sitting on the shelf for a long time before bought ..

Lose connections , corrosion at the terminals , even into the terminal wires can affect the starting power ..

Yes , check the relay in the fuse box , verify it’s good . Switch it out with one of the less or non essential ones to test...

Check the battery wires running to the starter and make sure there in good shape and that the connections at the stater are good ..

Doesn’t cost anything to do any of those .... load testers can be bought pretty cheap or tested at a shop possibly at a parts store for free .
These are the starting points if those are tested and all show to be good , then it gets more in depth and cost factors come into play.

 

[CaptnCrash]

I had a very similar thing happen a lot of years ago. I turned out after some testing that there was a group of ground wires retained by a body bolt under the hood on the passenger side right near the PCM was loose. That bunch of ground wires were all for the PCM and would arc when you had the power on and moved them around.

Came that way from the factory and took a while to corrode enough to get to this state.

Acted like a bad battery lights would dim, etc. Instrument panel went crazy too.

But the clicking thing sure sounds like a battery or battery cables. Could also be a dead spot in the starter armature.

 

[rottenronnie]

Wasn't there someone a while back that found a connection problem UNDER the fuse panel assembly (???)

 

[VIPR PWR]

Wasn't there someone a while back that found a connection problem UNDER the fuse panel assembly (???)

There seems to be many problems caused by the integrated power module (fuse box ). Electrical Connectors on the bottom side especially .. the damn thing runs everything electrical . Susceptible to corrosion..
Pic top side and bottom side .. of integrated power module ...


This part (example pic ) also tends to be a problem it is plugged into the fuse box ... sold separately lol

 

[Snake Charmer#04]

Test the battery ,,sitting for 2 months may have caused the new battery to have problems . Make sure it’s fully charged ..

What exactly happens when you push the go button ?

Just because it’s new doesn’t make it good !

 

[Snake Charmer#04]

Check your alternator...

 

[Snake Charmer#04]

I just replaced spark plugs wires with nice thermal coat(8mm) 1100 degree wires and New Spark Plug volt box...Runs and Charge battery alot better.

 

[beastmode1]

Hello,

I have 2005 SRT 10 and we just got it back after spending 2 months in the shop having the rearend replaced. We picked it Wednesday with no issues, drove it Thursday, Friday and Saturday without issue. Sunday morning, drove to the store and back, then about an hour, it wouldn't start! We got a new battery just before it went in the shop and went and exchanged it today but it still won't start. When we press the start button, it just clicks. Tried multiple keys and the odometer displayed: 'done'. Anything like this happen to anyone else? Thoughts on what I should check/try?

Check the Starter wires and connectors to it I had the same problem but ended up being the battery. I got a Mopar battery at the dealer at the same price as Autozone problem went away. I also replaced the Ground terminal connector as well. Check your starter as well might be sticking.

 

[beastmode1]

I also found that these batteries at the parts store are hit and miss buy one at the dealer problem solved.

 

[Tiny]

Thanks everyone! It was the starter! Starts like a dream now!

 

[rottenronnie]

Always nice to find out what is wrong with something, then make it right.

 

[Matthew Bartels]

when Mine wouldn't start, I did check to see if it was the battery, if there was spark while cranking, and then the last thing I did not check was the fuel.. when getting it towed in to the shop to get fixed found out it was the fuel pump. Luckily I have an extended warranty and it was covered. so if all of the above is check and passed, then I would suggest Hitting the gas tank to kind of kick start the fuel pump.. if it starts then, well it is the fuel pump. if you do not want to do that disconnect a line and again try to turn it over and see if fuel comes out.

good luck.