Summer Temps (Oil & Water)

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by SRT10FOUR, Jun 17, 2020.

Car Parts
  1. SRT10FOUR

    SRT10FOUR New Member

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    Heyoooo!

    I am curious to hear what everyone's high temps (BOTH Cruising and City Driving) are during the summer since this is my first summer with the truck. I've been hearing WILDLY varying opinions from the dealer, my trusted shop, and experts like Torrie.

    For me, these are the highest ranges I have seen thus far:

    Highway Driving (86 degrees outside, little to no traffic):
    -Oil Temp 227
    -Water Temp 223

    City Driving (89 degrees outside, moderate traffic)
    -Oil Temp 219
    -Water Temp 221

    I'm also curious what the consensus on the forums feels like the danger zone temps would be for both? Torrie mentioned 210 for oil is the start of the danger zone, and I am very to weigh his opinion above all others. My mechanic just did an overhaul of all the coolant and oil lines on my truck when I got it, and they're sure that the truck is operating in tip-top shape and working perfectly - which is interesting since I get to 210 oil temp in like 20 mins or less on a hot ass day.

    Love to hear your guys/girls thoughts!
     
  2. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Your oil and water temps are just fine.

    If you are doing a lot of low speed driving (stop-and-go) Torrie can always send you a "Summer Tune" that kicks the fan into a higher speed at a lower engine temperature.

    I'd give you my numbers but my heads are different and I have an under-drive pulley, ceramic-coated headers and colder plug temps, so all-'round colder operating temps.
     
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  3. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    ...and coated pistons and bearings...it all makes a difference.
     
  4. SRT10FOUR

    SRT10FOUR New Member

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    That’s a great idea. I’ll ask him if he can do that. So far I’ve only asked him what he thought the danger zone would be and since my temps were way over that I haven’t replied just yet. But he did my tune (and I got the 170 t stat from him) so I’ll definitely ask him about that.

    what are you thinking the danger zone temps would be?
     
  5. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    There are some pretty wild claims by manufacturers; for example Mobil1- claims 500 F for their synthetic.

    Grab a pan and a thermometer and a source of heat (outside suggested :)) and see what temp the oil you are using starts to smoke. And when it does, it's past it's limit. Most of the additives will be permanently done before 500 F.

    I remember some real world testing done at a "bush party" I attended years ago with a certain 360 Chrysler Cordoba that had cheap 10-30 oil in it which was standard oil for back in the day. The oil was drained, engine started and it ran until it didn't. The next morning, it STARTED and ran again (for a short time) much to the horror of the GM and Ford fans in attendance.

    I saw an abbreviated test like it years later in a TV ad. I think it was for Penzoil.

    NOT suggesting you try this with your truck but testing is a great way to get results, one way or the other.

    Anyway, back on track: I did some testing with fan limits on my own truck and even at highway speeds around 70 F ambient, that big fan needs to be turning or engine temps rise in a hurry.

    Make sure you open the bleeder on the thermostat housing to purge any trapped air, keep your rad clear of bugs, etc. Your engine is operating on the high-side and will make the additives in your oil and coolant work extra hard.

    NASCAR engines operate (coolant) at 290/295 F with engine oil operating at an even higher temp.
     
  6. jack s.

    jack s. New Member Supporting Member

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    I can tell you what my 2004 is at -- got it 4mths. ago, and has 32K miles on it. I changed out all fluids when I got it, flushed the coolant system, have new radiator and heater hoses, new 185 deg. thermostat, new serpentine belt and tensioner, and the stock tune. In high 80's outdoor temperature, on highway speeds I'm running just under 200 degrees, and local drives just over 200 degrees. If I have the a/c going, then I'm more like 210 degrees with local driving. I typically keep the engine rpm's in the 1500-2500 range. My oil temp. is usually very close to my coolant temp once the truck is fully warmed up.
    -jack
     
  7. SRT10FOUR

    SRT10FOUR New Member

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    haha gotcha, so don't pull over unless the oil temp approaches 500*

    What about the water/coolant temp? Should I use the red zone as the danger zone, which I think is around 250*?
     
  8. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Yes and Yes.
    I think you're getting the hang of it. :)

    It's the coolant temp you want to lower if you can as the oil temp will follow it.

    It's an all aluminum engine with a good sized rad and fan so all the proven basics are there.

    Again, make sure the radiator is unobstructed AND there is no air in the system AND...new items**:
    Your rad cap is working (in other words) the system is operating under pressure and the thermostat is opening at the temperature it should be.

    That's about it.
     
  9. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    Mine runs at just below 200 in summer and sneaks up a little in traffic. I have a 170 stat and in our mild winter 50-60F I'm at about 180
    Some gauges read bad anyway. Maybe a crook sender unit. I used a temp gun on thermostat housing and check the gauges to see if they are close
    I have just rechecked my build spec. Mine was built for TX so has maximum cooling system.
    Just check make sure yours was not built for Alaska:D
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2020
  10. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    I would like to add some information for you to digest. All the years I had my 2005 RC here in Arizona, I NEVER had oil or coolant temperatures as high as yours. Like some other members have posted, I usually saw 190-200 deg. and maybe 210 on the hottest days with A/C on. My truck ran 0W40 M1 FS oil. Anything thicker will raise your oil temperatures. My coolant ratio was 30% dexcool and 70% de-ionized water. Higher water content that is treated with a product like water wetter will provide all the protection needed and maximize heat transfer in the radiator. I also would suggest putting the stock thermostat back in. The 170 will stay open too much for too long and will not allow the coolant to pass through the radiator slow enough for heat transfer. Also make sure your grill block off panels are in to maximize diffusion cooling. No air in system and a solid radiator cap is also mandatory. I also ran an under-drive pulley. Torrie had put in the lower temperature setting on my tune to allow the fan to come on earlier. It RARELY came on. Sometimes when I came off the road under extreme conditions. Re; your tune. Be sure to KNOW that it is not too lean anywhere. This will promote high combustion temperatures.

    Good luck on your cooling venture.
     
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  11. SRT10FOUR

    SRT10FOUR New Member

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    Oy Vey! Lots to take in there and consider. I was not seeing the high temps until after the 170 t-stat, but then again, it was also still very cold here in Chicago around then anyways. It only got hot outside around the time the t-stat was dropped in, so that kind of sucks that I don't have any real info to know if the temps would have been that high beforehand, but they are getting so high that I suppose they probably would have been. The coolant in the truck is all brand new since the shop did a flush when installing the new t-stat, and there was just enough room for a bottle of water wetter, but I cannot discern any real difference in cooling from it just yet. I will have to see about the tunes from Torrie as well.
     
  12. Kiwi SRT10

    Kiwi SRT10 Active Member Supporting Member

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    It is also not unusual to have a dodgy Thermostat. Even brand new ones can be faulty. I had one that would not open initially until 220 then worked fine after that at 180
    try the original one and see
    I was out in my truck yesterday. I took note as I knew you were inquiring. Cruized into town at 180, oil 150 ambient temp 64 on a 170 stat
     
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  13. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    I had a 170° installed a few months back. It takes a little bit to get to temp, but it's running around 198-202. Oil temp around 200°. Thought at first the shop didn't bleed the lines, or the stat was faulty. Everything was good, fluid flow was/is normal. I've never seen it get hotter than what I've mentioned, whether in traffic, at a stop light, or just sitting there idling. Need to get the tuner from Torrie and have him set the fan at 170°.
     
  14. beastmode1

    beastmode1 Full Access Member

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    Well said !!!!!
     
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  15. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    There is your first clue...."Issue began after 170 t-stat was installed" Even though the circumstances around it do support the condition, It is important to keep in mind that this engine was designed to run at @190. Any cooler and combustion temperature will be too low. This engine is NOT efficient, it's just a big, simple two valve per cylinder aluminum lump!! You would have to have the Stryker heads to make good use of higher cylinder pressures. The cooling system was designed to keep this engine in the sweet spot. NOTE: Yes your cooling system may have been "flushed". But do you know the water ratio? Water wetter works best with high water content or ALL water. Hence my 70/30 ratio of water to dex-cool. ;)

    Your noted temperatures are just too cool. Regardless of thermostat condition. Just put in a high quality OEM unit. Optimal engine temp should be (again) 190 ish, oil should be the same to "burn off" combustion acids and allow the # after the "w" to be in the correct viscosity range. The tune will be crucial when it comes to overall thrust (power under peak). As well as combustion temperatures once you engine temperature is correct. His e-mailed "canned tune" will be safe rich. This allows a cushion for the dreaded detonation. This will leave thrust on the table until you get a "custom" tune. The temperature to REALLY pay attention to is the intake air temperature. This engine loves to coolest air possible via the factory feed from inside the passenger fender fed by the scoop in the grill block off. NOTHING works better, PERIOD. Anything over 104 deg. coming in will retard the timing and then the boat anchor comes out!!

    Good Luck! Cheers!
     
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  16. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    The best way to monitor all engine environment temperatures is an OBDII to App. KNOW your temperatures real-time while driving. https://www.autoguide.com/top-8-best-bluetooth-obd2-scanners

    Build spec on these trucks are the SAME regardless of region. They ALL have the heavy duty cooling system from the diesel trucks. ;)
     
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  17. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Hello!!
    We're you able to get your temps down where you want them??