The Engine Build

The design phase is almost complete. Used Block with all machining done including extra oil grooves for cam and bearings, Forged Pistons, Rings, Forged Rods, Head Stud kit, Main Cap Stud kit, better Oil Pump Gears, Computer designed cam for my truck and it's unique set up, Slow bleed rollers, hardened pushrods, Rocker Cover Spacers, etc
Southeast Performance use Torrie for all their tune work, as I do, the build details will be sent to him and my new tune will be waiting. John has already been talking to Torrie
Next step after that will be consolidation and then send.
 
Random Oil Pump gear failures. John has said there must be a problem with heat treatment for these to fall apart like they do.I am not going to take any risks. They make better ones that are for extreme race engines. 9000rpm safe.
That's me
There are 4 examples. That is 4 too many for me.
 

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Random Oil Pump gear failures. John has said there must be a problem with heat treatment for these to fall apart like they do.I am not going to take any risks. They make better ones that are for extreme race engines. 9000rpm safe.
That's me
There are 4 examples. That is 4 too many for me.
Well that’s ugly .. were those out of stock engines ?
 
Random Oil Pump gear failures. John has said there must be a problem with heat treatment for these to fall apart like they do.I am not going to take any risks. They make better ones that are for extreme race engines. 9000rpm safe.
That's me
There are 4 examples. That is 4 too many for me.


I've torn down more of these than I can count and never seen a oil pump gear failure like that! Most common failures I see are spun bearings (from low oil level) or dropped valve seats. Boundary does make a nice set of aftermarket oil pump gears though!
 
I've torn down more of these than I can count and never seen a oil pump gear failure like that! Most common failures I see are spun bearings (from low oil level) or dropped valve seats. Boundary does make a nice set of aftermarket oil pump gears though!
Why would these gears fail? Why would they make aftermarket gears if OEM are fine?
Would make no difference to an oil pump if the engine had 500hp or 1000hp
Maybe just high RPM is the culprit. Extreme engines I have heard of 9000rpm 1500hp NA. Only heard of but never seen. Not that many in NZ.
Either way I am not going to take a risk. I am certainly not going to see 9000rpm either.
If I have a failure after this engine build it will end up at the scrap dealers and I will be stuck working until I am 70 to pay for the loss.
I'll buy a 1986 Toyota Corolla instead
 
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Crappy pistons with narrow ring lands. Top breaks out, jams in bore, shear off conrod, flails around and destroys the block. This is common too. There at least 6 blocks for sale at the moment for coffee tables or ornaments.
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Why would these gears fail? Why would they make aftermarket gears if OEM are fine?
Would make no difference to an oil pump if the engine had 500hp or 1000hp
Maybe just high RPM is the culprit. Extreme engines I have heard of 9000rpm 1500hp NA. Only heard of but never seen. Not that many in NZ.
Either way I am not going to take a risk. I am certainly not going to see 9000rpm either.
If I have a failure after this engine build it will end up at the scrap dealers and I will be stuck working until I am 70 to pay for the loss.
I'll buy a 1986 Toyota Corolla instead

Consider an engine that makes a lot more torque than another. The engine with more power (more torque) has the ability to accelerate the crank (and our crank-mounted oil pumps) quicker than the other. There is CONSIDERABLE resistance from the oil in the pump and that which is trying to move through the engine. And because liquids don't compress, the torque required to turn the pump full of oil through the engine is considerable.
If the engine was slowly revved up, it is much easier on the pump than being hit with massive torque in a short time.

But yes, if say a 500 horsepower engine and a 1000 horsepower engine were both at 6500 rpm (pretending that both were making their maximum power output), both pumps are simply going along for the ride at that point in time. Neither would care how much power the engine was making. Other than moving the oil through the pump and engine, there isn't a sudden increase of force on either. The resistance by the oil inside the pump and engine areas fed by the oil is now steady-state.

Accelerating the more powerful engine from a lower to a higher r.p.m. quickly, places much greater strain on the pump.

I hope this makes sense.
 
So are you saying, don't rev it in neutral? Or put a lightened flywheel on it?
Maybe it is just because the engines these possibly came out of are extreme builds and insanely high reving....maybe. I don'tknow
 
No, just offering an explanation as to why the pumps could fail.

I see you are adding block mods for the good bearings too.
I thought that was a good idea and went with the mods and Gen IV bearings and the single-piece oil pump relief shuttle instead of the (known to oscillate) o.e.m. 3-piece.

Sounds like you are doing everything right!
 
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I agree, but most likely from high reving engines.
I can't afford to take the risk

I don't blame you. The SRT4 Neon's (also powdered-metal oil pump gears) would also pack it in on the more heavily modded engines.

There's a great deal to consider when you start re-engineering an engine or other associated equipment once the power goes up.
 
I don't blame you. The SRT4 Neon's (also powdered-metal oil pump gears) would also pack it in on the more heavily modded engines.

There's a great deal to consider when you start re-engineering an engine or other associated equipment once the power goes up.
Yes it will be interesting. Should be strong enough. Build for 1000hp strength and run at maybe....700hp
That is my style. I can only afford to build it once.
Well to be honest I can't afford to build it......but I am.
 
It sounds like you have gone to a builder that knows how to do things properly. Ask lots of questions (I sure do); it's a fun hobby.
It does take considerable resources to do it right but you'll have a 725+ horsepower engine without power adders or additional "stuff" to worry about. All motor is an expensive way to go (dollar per horsepower), but has the most reward, I think.

Speaking of spending more than you planned, high-end audio (another hobby of mine) is on another spending plane of existence!

As long as we're having fun.
 
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It sounds like you have gone to a builder that knows how to do things properly. Ask lots of questions, it's a fun hobby.
It does take considerable resources to do it right but you'll have a 725+ horsepower engine without power adders or additional "stuff" to worry about. All motor is an expensive way to go (dollar per horsepower), but has the most reward, I think.

Speaking of spending more than you planned, high-end audio (another hobby of mine) is on another spending plane of existence!

As long as we're having fun.
From John

We don’t want to go to aggressive on cam profile due to weight of the truck. Need to keep bottom torque to move the weight.



Something in that 232 238 @.050 or 238 [email protected] .634 .622 lift area 114 or 115 +4
 
From John

We don’t want to go to aggressive on cam profile due to weight of the truck. Need to keep bottom torque to move the weight.



Something in that 232 238 @.050 or 238 [email protected] .634 .622 lift area 114 or 115 +4

Those numbers are almost identical to what I posted (and used) in my own engine. The last cam I had ground is my favourite.

Yes, with a truck you are definitely on the right track, in my opinion. You could boost your horsepower numbers by 50 or so over the options above with a more aggressive profile but it would be "peaky" power. You'd lose too much torque, gas mileage would suffer and your ECU would be confused. NOT worth it to me.
The official Striker "truck cam" was split duration 226/228 @ .050 ground on a 114.
I installed it straight-up and at our altitude; even with the power-vampire auto and the 500 pound weight penalty over the Reg Cabs, it still rocked. And it has an extremely wide torque band. It doesn't really seem to care what gear it's in.

Sidebar: I can't stress enough the importance of the valve lash adjustment with the Strikers.
 
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