throttle body

rbabody

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Just installed a roe Tb for my trucks birthday. Does anybody know what the iac counts should be hot at idle?
The numbers I had at first with setting the Tb to roe specs
Idle 1100
Iac counts 0
Tps volts .70
To get my idle down to 752 had to back off the main idle screw and that put the tps volts .52 that also got me up to about 22 iac counts.
So tonite I made adjustments to my tps so I can adjust my voltage back to .70 and readjusted the idle set screw to get my idle down to spec and keep the .70 volt at the tps . Now my iac counts are only at 3.
My fuel trims seem to -1.0 so its taking fuel away so I don't suspect a vac leak.
Now the truck still has a stock tune. Other mods are cai no cats.
So my other ? Is it getting to much air by the Tb blade and not getting a good seal when I put it together I could see daylight in every corner don't know if that is normal :dontknow:
 
It's easy to get your idle speed exactly where you would like it through a tune rather than chasing your tail going between the TPS and the IAC and the TB base screw adjustment.

If that is what you are trying to do, adjust your idle speed...:dontknow:
 
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Getting base idle was easy getting it all to come together is the hard part.

Called roe today they also told me to get a tune to maximize the new Tb but that still doesn't help me in knowing what I should be looking for as far as numbers go. Also told them that I could see light in the corners of the Tb. They told me that every thing is measured to be perfect fit :dontknow:

All they told me to do is tighten up the spring tension. Did that still have slow iac response time when coming to a stop.

Have a run this weekend will try to do some data logging.

In the meantime if anybody has a roe Tb and access to a scan tool and if you just bolted it on and it worked perfect please send me numbers. (min idle tops volts and iac counts at idle hot)

Thanks
 
Why not just buy a new IAC and a TPS and be done?

Because they are not the problem.

Started all over put on the stock tps and the voltage was 1.09v with the Tb idle stop almost bottomed out.
(I used a 2005 Tb for my core don't know if its any different . Called the dealership and the part number was for a 05-06 only possible it had the extra tab for the kick down cable:dontknow:)
Installed my adjustable tps and reset min idle and tps .70v. Then I came across the reset section in the scan tool and reset the tps and iac
(nice section can reset all adaptive and even do a battery disconnect was using a snap-on scan tool)
Took for a drive to give the computer time to do some relearning. Rechecked all things good all numbers are where they should be.
Now I need a tune:burnout:
 
Okay- Have to admit I'm not entirely sure what you are/were doing (or why), but it sounds like it worked out and that is good.

About the battery disconnect: You HAVE TO remove and touch the cables together to perform a hard ECU reset.
Simply disconnecting the battery is NOT the same.
 
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Okay- Have to admit I'm not entirely sure what you are/were doing (or why), but it sounds like it worked out and that is good.

About the battery disconnect: You HAVE TO remove and touch the cables together to perform a hard ECU reset.
Simply disconnecting the battery is NOT the same.

I was just looking for anybodys input into this matter. But I guess nobody has a scan tool. Or ever ran into this problem. (Sorry for wasting time here on the forum.) As far as a hard ECU reset yes you are right I was talking about using the scan to tool under the memory resets section.

I hope this info will help that's why I posted the numbers because I have read to many posts on here where people just start complaining about the product before they look into what the computer is telling them.
 
Aftermarket TB's are more of a pain in the ass with idle and driveablity issues than any benefit they provide powerwise. It is hardly noticeable over stock.
 
Aftermarket TB's are more of a pain in the ass with idle and driveablity issues than any benefit they provide powerwise. It is hardly noticeable over stock.

I have had a mono blade Tb on both of my trucks. My last had a tune and my current is still a stock tune and I noticed a gain in both.
I put bbk on my 04 viper and I didn't feel a change like the mono in the trucks. That's why I went with another mono blade.
In all the cars and trucks that I have put a Tb on I have always had better drivability(even the viper)
like I said I'm not here to bash products just posting my finds and questions, ya I know that if I would have seen the memory reset section in the scan tool this post wouldn't exist:(
 
Aftermarket TB's are more of a pain in the ass with idle and driveablity issues than any benefit they provide powerwise. It is hardly noticeable over stock.

Hi, if installed properly (incl. reset) there is really some fun to gain with an aftermarket throttle body.

In a lot of cases people believe that this mod is a "just bolt on", which its not.

There are sensors that have to get and send the right "information" to work correctly and if that all works perfectly together, you will have :

- better throttle response
- power gain
 
so y'all are saying that just bolting on a TB isn't enough? i have to go buy a scan tool and read some voltage inputs and take the tire off and take the fender liner out and disconnect the battery cables then touch them together before the truck knows its got a different TB?
 
have to do the tire and fender liner just to get to the battery to do the other stuff

Oh, okay.
I bought a Quad Cab.:D




Bolting on a new TB should be a change and go deal.

(Generally) more open surface area than stock exposed during light throttle which would explain the improved throttle response.
That alone was worth it to me. It felt like the truck dropped 1000 pounds.
AND an average gain of 10 HP WOT discovered (same as an U/D Pulley) after several hours of: BBK vs Stock vs Hand-Ported on the dyno.
They work.
A slight tweak might be required to the throttle stop and thats it; unless something else is wrong (like a bad TPS).

Cheap power and improved drivability. I'm in!
Not for everybody though but...thats' car guys for ya and is part of what keeps it interesting.
 
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NukeGM/Ford-

Man its hot down your way! 40+ C.
You could gargle a raw egg and it would be scrambled and cooked before you swallowed it.
 
so y'all are saying that just bolting on a TB isn't enough? i have to go buy a scan tool and read some voltage inputs and take the tire off and take the fender liner out and disconnect the battery cables then touch them together before the truck knows its got a different TB?

As I said in my first post in all four corners I could see it didn't have a good seal and asked if it was normal :dontknow: and that's what started the adjustments. All my other TB's that I installed were a bolt on and go. I think I'm getting to much air by the blade at idle :dontknow: that's why I got out the scan tool.
 
Hi, I've come into this a bit late but it's seems that I'm having the same problem (slow IAC response)that you had however I've not managed to sort mine yet. I recently fitted a Roe TB, S/C and W/M and my revs seem to be hanging for a second or two before dropping and I have put this to the IAC as when I clamp the hose supplying air to the IAC from the air filter my revs don't hang at all. Do you have any advice please?:)
 
First do you have access to a scan tool (not a code reader) if you don't find somebody who does.(buying booze or food really helps) Then you have to watch your tps volts and your iac counts. When you say connect your hose your problem goes away? Do you have something unhooked or possibly blocked? And when is this problem happening? Hot cold at a stop or driving?
 
Morning, yes I've got a scan tool of sorts it an Innovate OT-2 that links to my IPhone via an App called "log works" however of all the channels listed that it's reading I can't find one with "IAC" in its title?
Regards the rubber hose it's a short length that feeds the IAC directly from the Roe air filter and bypassing the throttle body, when I have the bonnet up and am opening and closing the throttle I can hear air still being sucked through this tube as the revs are dropping as if the IAC is closing too slowly and to be honest I didn't expect the IAC to be open when the throttle is opened? When I clamp this hose shut with some grips the revs are really sharp and drop as you'd expect.
I notice that the throttle is hanging for a second or two more when the truck is warm than cold, any advice would be useful.
One thing that I must mention is that to fit the Roe supercharger I had to lengthen the four cables to the IAC, I am 99% sure that I joined them correctly but two are colored very similar and I'm wondering if that could be an issue? I will swap them around tonight and report back....
 

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