VOLANT RAM AIR

Discussion in 'Performance Mods' started by Tcorsrt10, Dec 3, 2019.

  1. Tcorsrt10

    Tcorsrt10 New Member

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    Hello,
    I have a Volant Ram Air System less then 6 months and less then 3000 miles use. I’m asking $250.00 ... interested DM me


    Also looking for the stock air intake system for a 2005 Dodge Ram SRT10
     
  2. AMS3

    AMS3 Active Member

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    Can I ask why you want to go back to stock? With the Ram Air, you have to have a tune for it, correct?
     
  3. Tcorsrt10

    Tcorsrt10 New Member

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    I need the truck to pass California emissions, and I don’t have to tune it.
     
  4. GSJake

    GSJake Member

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    I thought the Volant was CARB-Compliant?
     
  5. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    Smart for this guy. Going back to stock set up will Improve performance over the Volant which is NOT a "Ram Air" system. The goofy scoop at the hood vent is in a low pressure area.

    The stock system actually recovers more air volume from the front grill block off scoop to the inner fender and stays within 6 degree's of ambient.

    Cheers!
     
  6. VIPR PWR

    VIPR PWR Full Access Member

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    Whats your opinion on any of the other air cleaners .. seems you only agree with the stock set up ,, maybe add a K&N filter !
    From what I see is that all the after market set ups are not a sealed system and would be less productive for generating HP ..
    you are correct about the scoop being in a low pressure zone .. it more for allowing engine compartment heat to escape .. years ago I believe a member on here called Silverback did testing on this , he or was an engineer.. you might still be able to find his threads about it ..
    would also like to get more opinions on a workable sealed full Ram air set up for the trucks .. look for Dom505 member .. fastest viper truck he built with JMB Justin ... his set up would be the closest to a real ram air set up that I have seen ,, but I’m not willing to remove the headlight for the beginning of the air intake .. there has to be a better way .
    The volent is a sealed system but the scoop intake is in the low pressure are making it less effective or not affective at all .... may a relocation of the scoop to a more useable area at the grill would benefit !
     
  7. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    My very first mod was the K&N warm-air kit.
    The truck lost power on the dyno: 8hp I believe with the hood up and worse with it down.
    It sounded cheap (my opinion) and also "fluttered" at w.o.t. that sounded similar to valve float. Strange but true.
    I sold it.

    K&N drop in worked with the stock system and pulls outside air from the passenger side (as you know).
    I think I picked up somewhere around 8 or 10, I'd have to check the archives.

    As for Dom's rig: At 180+ miles per hour, I think anywhere near the front of his truck could be considered "Ram-Air". :)
     
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  8. noid

    noid Full Access Member

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    I have tried several setups. Drop, CAI, and Volant. Also tried this in my hemi before the SRT What I can tell you is that obviously the volant is not a RAM air set up. Like others have stated the airbox needs to be sealed. Now does the scoop actually draw in cool air even though it's in a negative air pressure spot. Yes it does. When your your on the gas you are creating suction through that scoop and the opening in front of the Volant box. Therefore your still drawing in fresh air from the scoop because the motor is causing suction therefore changing the negative to what would be a neutral air pressure area.

    So out of all the cars I have owned. A drop in does help. As far as the Hemi and the SRT are concerned. I did not notice much HP gain with a drop. It was more responsive and helped. The CAI was better than the drop in and in my situation the volant did not do much on the hemi but it made a noticeable difference over the CAI.

    One way to make it work would be to extend the intake portion of the hood just as Kawasaki did on Psycho1122 ZX12R and seal the box.

    Regardless of what others might say. Like the ones (dumb asses) who swore up and down that the stock headers were the best. Not everyone will agree.

    I run the volant because it's California compliant and I know it works better than a drop in.

    Here is CARB #D-526-4

    Call Volant and they will send you a carb sticker.
     
  9. Viper315

    Viper315 New Member

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    I still have my stock air box if you are still in need of one
     
  10. Tcorsrt10

    Tcorsrt10 New Member

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    I am, looking for the complete set up including the brackets that hold it to the fender well.
     
  11. dodgeboy16

    dodgeboy16 New Member

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    I have a set that I removed when I put on a K&N CAI. What are you willing to pay?
     
  12. Tcorsrt10

    Tcorsrt10 New Member

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    If it’s complete with brackets .......$100.00 what’s your thoughts
     
  13. Psycho1122

    Psycho1122 Full Access Member

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    Yes, I do agree that the stock set up performs best in dynamic conditions. Static Dyno results do not reflect real world conditions. Sure, big, goofy, shiny tubes with oversized, colored filter media create a wonderful placebo effect and additional intake noise. Lets think about the basics of the statement. When the stock system can provide more than adequate CFM to the TB at WOT up to Max RPM's, a "shiny" aluminum or ferrous pipe that's oversized does nothing to improve peak combustion efficiency of the engine. In addition, the tubes will be affected by heat soak much easier and quicker. This engine does NOT like high intake temps. (ECU starts to pull timing at 104 degrees IAT) As Ronnie stated, the K&N is a "Hot air" intake. NONE of the intakes are "Ram Air". Especially the Volant. One of the primary rules of any subsonic "Ram Jet" is that the intake pipes MUST gradually ENLARGE as they approach the box. Enlargement must not exceed 10 degrees. The Volant?!? Ummm......NO. Not to mention the other self defeating properties of the design. In it's most simplistic form, the trucks OEM setup uses a scoop in the passenger side grill block off to grab a "slice" of high velocity air and divert it to the inner fender. The fender IS the "box". This "Box" has HUGE volume and allows the air to slow down and recover some pressure to help overcome the engines natural vacuum. The stock filter chamber is sealed to the fender and along with the tube to the TB, it will resist heat soak. It is also completely sealed and sized adequately. (Do you think SRT would undersize this to "choke" the mighty engine?!?) My OBD II testing shows that the stock system stays within 6-8 degrees of ambient under full heat soak, dynamic driving conditions. I would challenge ANY after market set up to match that.

    If you want a true "Ram-Air" system, design a system within the trucks "packaging" limitations to meet these primary rules:

    - Have a froward facing duct or tube that projects forward SEVERAL inches from any surface.
    - The total area of the intake pipes must be significantly greater than the TB area.
    - The intakes pipes must enlarge gradually as they approach the box at no more than 10 degrees.
    - The box must be totally sealed.
    - ECU needs to monitor pressure differences to modify A/F
    - The "box" volume and intake length and cross-sectional area MUST be chosen according to Helmholtz formula.

    When your done, you need to consider that if 100% of the air energy is converted at 150 MPH, you only can expect to gain @ 3%. (12-15 H.P. on the V10). The "Ram-Air" is a velocity-squared effect. If you double the speed you get 4 times the effect. On the other hand, if you cut the speed from 150 to 75 MPH, you get 1/4 of the effect or 3/4 of 1%. (@ 3.5 H.P.). SRT determined the engines volume and temperature needs were the most critical. Having a fender full of the coolest air possible for the engine to draw on yields the best overall results. EVERYTHING including exhaust flow needs to follow fluid dynamics models. ;)

    Lets not even get into the dynamic effects of blocking the "hood hot air vent" (scoop) has on overall engine heat dissipation and front splitter down-force. :eek:

    Footnote: The 2000 Kawasaki ZX12R has a remarkable "True" ram air system. My testing in high speed and static conditions shows it can produce almost .9 lb. of "boost" over ambient!! It also recovers air-box engine vacuum by 40 MPH at WOT. That's 16 H.P. on a 200 H.P. engine above 150 MPH ;)

    Cheers!!
     
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  14. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Those Krazy Kawasaki Engineers know a thing or two about aerodynamics (and making horsepower).
    My 14r also uses a working ram air system.
     
  15. rottenronnie

    rottenronnie Well-Known Member Supporting Member

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    Airflow during dyno sessions is helped somewhat by the large cfm fans. It is better than nothing.
    Several scoop designs have come and gone over the years but as you indicated it doesn't amount to very much pressure at all. But, if all else being equal in competitive NA racing (like Pro Stock) you really can't afford to leave even a small advantage on the table.
    Back in the 60s when manufacturers were using ram tuning on their intake manifolds, there were some power peaks for sure. The old cross-rams tuned hard for passing from 50 through 80 mph. Same for the Gen II intake they had a sweet spot, by design.

    If you want true ram-air, install a turbo (or 2) , or a supercharger.
     
  16. Tcorsrt10

    Tcorsrt10 New Member

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    Don’t want to offend you, what price are you looking for and we can strike a deal.
     
  17. Tcorsrt10

    Tcorsrt10 New Member

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    What price are you looking for, I’m at $100.00, let me know where you’re at. I don’t want to offend