What are the typical baseline QC numbers?

greatone61

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Hey fellas,

I wanted to dyno my truck before I did anything to it, but I didn't get the chance. Can someone tell me what they dyno at before mods? Thanks!
 
OK, I feel like crap now. Phil Dyno'd mine at 401 RWHP:(
 
Wow! I was thinking they'd be around 400. That also gets me thinking, why did Texas Yellow Fever's truck only pick up another 20rwhp with and intake, ported tb, headers, borla exhaust and dc stage 2?
 
MYuGiOh Motorsports said:
OK, I feel like crap now. Phil Dyno'd mine at 401 RWHP:(

What altitude were you at when Phil dynoed it?
If you were at higher altitude it is probably good as HP #'s go down with thinner air.
 
what did his dyno at?? It varies from dyno to dyno...I think a brand called dynapack bolts to the wheelhub and is considered to be quite accurate. Dynojet is very popular but I think not too accurate.
 
Baseline Stock QC (auto trans):
Dynojet: 390 HP

Cars/Reg Cab SRT-10, Stock (manual trans):
Dynojet: 425 HP

The autos ARE Power Vampires!!

Sorry it took 18 years to answer. :)
 
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Baseline Stock QC (auto trans):
Dynojet: 390 HP

Cars/Reg Cab SRT-10, Stock (manual trans):
Dynojet: 425 HP

The autos ARE Power Vampires!!

Sorry it took 18 years to answer. :)
Are those rear wheel drive numbers or front wheel drive numbers hahaha ..
Are the actual numbers of the engine stand alone dyno pretty accurate and based on the factory 505 HP spec ? Or are they under rated for insurance reasons like they did in the early days like the 426 hemi ?
 
Are those rear wheel drive numbers or front wheel drive numbers hahaha ..
Are the actual numbers of the engine stand alone dyno pretty accurate and based on the factory 505 HP spec ? Or are they under rated for insurance reasons like they did in the early days like the 426 hemi ?

The 426 Hemi was rated at 425 at 5000 rpm (some say even lower) which was just under their two-stroke like power band. I buzzed mine very regularly to 6500 and it was an animal after 5000. They were a 500 horsepower engine.

Keeping them tuned with their weak ignition systems of the day was a full time job. The spark plugs had no Quench support and didn't last very long (say 1500 miles). That caused their real-world performance to be all over the place.

They had great Volumetric efficiency but poor Combustion efficiency (they responded very well to ignition advance like many Mopar engines).

Many regurgitated articles spewed by people these days will tell you the 426 Hemi is combustion efficient and it is NOT.

The Mopar Electronic Ignition conversion helped the 426 Hemis' immensely.

You can be confident that the power numbers for our 8.3L engines are accurate, coming from the engine dynos at Chrysler.

As there are no driveline losses, engine dynos will read higher than chassis dynos where tires are involved.

Some chassis-dynos (like Mustangs) for example, use an eddy current (a loading dyno) and produce numbers lower than a Dynojet dyno does, all else being equal.

The small box style dynos that read right off the axle are typically giving the highest power numbers these days.

Dynos use a correction factor (typically J1349) which allows for example, a Dynojet at sea-level on a cool day, to produce the same numbers as a Dynojet in Denver CO, on a hot and humid day.

To add general mayhem, ANY dyno can produce false numbers (the human factor). "Tell" the dyno it is testing at 7000 feet and it's 100% humidity and 125F and what kind of power numbers do you think it will show?

It's important to read the charts. The famous QC flash doesn't really produce any more PEAK horsepower but it produces considerably more TQ "under the curve" (on the way up to the PEAK number). The net result is still a CONSIDERABLE improvement in performance.

Dynos are a tuning tool but are often used and abused for other purposes.
 
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The 426 Hemi was rated at 425 at 5000 rpm (some say even lower) which was just under their two-stroke like power band. I buzzed mine very regularly to 6500 and it was an animal after 5000. They were a 500 horsepower engine.

Keeping them tuned with their weak ignition systems of the day was a full time job. The spark plugs had no Quench support and didn't last very long (say 1500 miles). That caused their real-world performance to be all over the place.

They had great Volumetric efficiency but poor Combustion efficiency (they responded very well to ignition advance like many Mopar engines).

Many regurgitated articles spewed by people these days will tell you the 426 Hemi is combustion efficient and it is NOT.

The Mopar Electronic Ignition conversion helped the 426 Hemis' immensely.

You can be confident that the power numbers for our 8.3L engines are accurate, coming from the engine dynos at Chrysler.

As there are no driveline losses, engine dynos will read higher than chassis dynos where tires are involved.

Some chassis-dynos (like Mustangs) for example, use an eddy current (a loading dyno) and produce numbers lower than a Dynojet dyno does, all else being equal.

The small box style dynos that read right off the axle are typically giving the highest power numbers these days.

Dynos use a correction factor (typically J1349) which allows for example, a Dynojet at sea-level on a cool day, to produce the same numbers as a Dynojet in Denver CO, on a hot and humid day.

To add general mayhem, ANY dyno can produce false numbers (the human factor). "Tell" the dyno it is testing at 7000 feet and it's 100% humidity and 125F and what kind of power numbers do you think it will show?

It's important to read the charts. The famous QC flash doesn't really produce any more PEAK horsepower but it produces considerably more TQ "under the curve" (on the way up to the PEAK number). The net result is still a CONSIDERABLE improvement in performance.

Dynos are a tuning tool but are often used and abused for other purposes.
That interesting and never looked at it that way before .. I guess a honest and good tuner would definitely be required to get real or decent accuracy . After I bought the SCT when they first came out , from Marty ,, I really didn’t feel a miraculous difference like was being promoted on the QC’s .. There was a seat of the difference which I tended to relate to the torque limit being removed I think it was ,, possibly a few other tweaks from the canned tune . I had the Valet tune , towing Tune and the power tune ,, which also retained the stock tune .. I leave it on the power tune . Valet tune made me crap when I had it on and hit the throttle and the truck took a crap hahaha ! Actually thought something blew in the engine hahaha until I realized I had the valet tune installed ..
 
I also tried tunes from Marty at one point.
A successful tune for a QC makes a BIG difference in performance.
An additional 80 ft. lbs. (and not lbs. ft. because I'm old) of torque, is something that's hard to ignore!

As for using a good convertor, it made my QC feel a thousand pounds lighter. I would say it's because of the flexibility of it being looser than the O.E.M. convertor, which was really for the diesels.
It makes that maximum 32 m.p.h. kickdown cruising speed into first gear far less important when you "have to" get on the throttle!
When a 26-2800 convertor flashes and torque multiplication occurs and first gear engages at W.O.T., the mixed result is, well, it's hard not to smile!
 
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"Old people" just "have to" get on that throttle! Hahahaha :rolleyes::p
 
It's part of being alive.

A passenger without a pulse wouldn't likely care either way which is why we never see a hearse speeding, I suppose. ;)

Is it time for another round of "up yours"
??? :)
 
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