WTF

I cut the top off a Gen III and had a look around.
I can't remember how many shops said they could do what I asked but never did.
What I wanted was to add 3" to the top of each runner then build a plenum on top (each side).
3 different Intake companies wanted an Intake built from scratch, instead of modifying my own.
They were all between 10 and $15K
The Gen III Intake is somewhat restrictive...
A Gen II Intake won't add horsepower on a Gen III engine but will add 50 pounds-feet of torque because of the longer runners. Bitchy to install as well and they look like they belong on an industrial boat engine (my opinion).
Hey Ronnie where do I get a crank timing chain sprocket with all the key ways for degreeing in the cam?
 
Hey Ronnie where do I get a crank timing chain sprocket with all the key ways for degreeing in the cam?
Check with the guys you got the Strikers from, they might know...
I don't supply parts of any kind. When you are at that stage, check, and you may not need to make any changes to it.
 
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Check with the guys you got the Strikers from, they might know...
I don't supply parts of any kind. When you are at that stage, check, and you may not need to make any changes to it.
I have a friend who is a very clever engineer, I wonder if he could put a keyway in the exact place
 
Here are a few more pics to peruse.

The Cam Sprocket is just like the 440 6-pack and the old 426 Hemi.
All I did was drill out the (3) Cam Sprocket bolt holes slightly oversized then drilled out the Cam alignment-pin hole to install an "offset button" a.k.a. "offset bushing" that relocates the alignment pin on the cam. Basically a small metal donut with an offset hole.

Might be easier than installing an offset keyway (as those crank sprockets can require a 200 ton crane to remove).

The combustion chamber pic helped to design a piston top for maximum squish/quench. See post #229

Have fun!!
 

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There was talk, but I don't know if anyone ever made them.
Simple cure just use a little JB weld and put a Rolex on the sprocket the timing should be very accurate using the Rolex watch .. Heck the Rolex is cheaper that all the repairs and mods hahaha

Do the make offset pins for the cam sprocket … f the crank sprocket can be remove on yours easy then the offset keys should work .. but f not Ronnie can send over his crane lol
 
Ronnie how far degrees is acceptable advancing or retarding the the timing on these engines , or acceptable tolerances ?
 
Simple cure just use a little JB weld and put a Rolex on the sprocket the timing should be very accurate using the Rolex watch .. Heck the Rolex is cheaper that all the repairs and mods hahaha

Do the make offset pins for the cam sprocket … f the crank sprocket can be remove on yours easy then the offset keys should work .. but f not Ronnie can send over his crane lol
Haha!!

Yes, they make both offset keys for the crank sprocket and offset bushing for the cam sprocket.
 

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Ronnie how far degrees is acceptable advancing or retarding the the timing on these engines , or acceptable tolerances ?
You can have advance or retard (can we still say that?) ground into the cam when it is manufactured so, whatever the customer wants. From there you can install the cam straight-up (to match the camshaft's ground-in centerline specs) OR advance OR retard it with bushings or keys.
Or if a cam is a little rank for the application it can be advanced to favour low-speed torque over top-end power.
But to answer your question, if someone had to change the cam timing by say 8 degrees or more to get it to work close to properly, it likely wasn't the right cam for the application in the first place. Normally a single in-block cam will take 4-6 degrees.
There is more than cam timing in play here for good performance, so it isn't a question with a straight answer.
I've seen the Gen IIIs retarded by 10 degrees or more (which is huge), right from the factory. This is with the dots perfectly lined up between the Cam and Crank. These engines made poor power and were more than a little hard on fuel.
First find TRUE T.D.C. and THEN use a degree wheel and pointer to be absolutely sure the cam timing is right.

Many engines used retarded cams to meet emissions.
 
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*Gulp* I will need to get a second job at this rate, or maybe become a drug dealer.
Haha; yes to do it right, it isn't a cheap undertaking but it's worth it.

Hardened pushrods were included with the original Striker orders. If they weren't included with yours for some reason, you will also need shorter (hollow) pushrods 7.400" long, which are 6mm shorter than the stockers. For reference, the Beehive springs that came with the Strikers are 30 pounds more (closed) and 50 more pounds (open) than o.e.m.

Also, you mentioned your engine has been apart before, so I'd strongly suggest new o.e.m. head bolts as the stockers are only good for 3 pulls before they are stretched-out, by design, and can no longer provide full clamping force.

The little bolts across the top row can be reused, as they are a different material than the big ones.
 
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You can have advance or retard (can we still say that?) ground into the cam when it is manufactured so, whatever the customer wants. From there you can install the cam straight-up (to match the camshaft's ground-in centerline specs) OR advance OR retard it with bushings or keys.
Or if a cam is a little rank for the application it can be advanced to favour low-speed torque over top-end power.
But to answer your question, if someone had to change the cam timing by say 8 degrees or more to get it to work close to properly, it likely wasn't the right cam for the application in the first place. Normally a single in-block cam will take 4-6 degrees.
There is more than cam timing in play here for good performance, so it isn't a question with a straight answer.
I've seen the Gen IIIs retarded by 10 degrees or more (which is huge), right from the factory. This is with the dots perfectly lined up between the Cam and Crank. These engines made poor power and were more than a little hard on fuel.
First find TRUE T.D.C. and THEN use a degree wheel and pointer to be absolutely sure the cam timing is right.

Many engines used retarded cams to meet emissions.
Excellent info .. thanks
 
I've always wondered if Ronnie's head hurts as his skull must have enlarged significantly to hold all the gray matter in there! Hahahaha - amazes me constantly. We are a fortunate group - lots of good resources
 

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