Tremec / Centerforce problems..

Hey folks! Over the past couple of weeks i've noticed that my 1-2 shift
was becoming much more difficult. I came to the conclusion that either my
clutch wasn't fully disengaging and it finally is starting to eat at my tranny or
my syncros are in need of replacing.. Took it to the local dealership had the
viper tech look at it and he verified my opinion but he said it had more to do
with my clutch not fully disengaging. Now i'm wondering why this is happening..
I installed Roe's fidanza flywheel/centerforce clutch package and it seemed fine
the first 10k but now it really can't shift out of 1st after 3100 RPMs..
What would change in the past 10k that would cause this? Also, how difficult
would it be for me to take the tranny out and bring him the unit to work on?

Regards,

Andrew

I'm sure you did but did you try flushing and bleeding the clutch fluid?

I did my clutch myself and found the small bolts holding the rear U-joint clamps a bear to get off. I'd order new U-joint straps and bolts for the re-installation. $40.

Long time no see brother,how have you been.

i would try flushing the fluid out of the clutch and bleeding it all over again

clutch is toast due to an improper break in period

Whoa forgot about how responsive this crowd is! haha well i'm doing fine Brat
just finished up my second year of college and am on summer break now working
on the truck etc.. :rock: :rock: How you been man?
But yeah, i haven't really tried to bleed to clutch or do anything to it yet i don't
think i have that quick disconnect tool.. I brought the truck to a dealership
to have the stock swapped out for Seans kit and i think they only gave me
my stock clutch back.. But since it's out of warranty now i'm feeling a bit
more bold as to what i take apart. Regarding 505'sFastestViper post, how
would the clutch be toast? Well, to be more accurate in my question, if
my clutch was toast why would it engage low as apposed to high? :dontknow:

Regards,

Andrew

Regarding other members who have had their clutches replaced with the
centerforce / viper master/slave cylinders, where is your engagement point?
2-3 inches from the floor or closer to 5?

Regards,

Andrew

Sharpimage said:

Regarding other members who have had their clutches replaced with the
centerforce / viper master/slave cylinders, where is your engagement point?
2-3 inches from the floor or closer to 5?

Regards,

Andrew

Click to expand...

mine's closer to the top & have had no issues with it in last 13k miles....... mine are mostly @ the track these days, holdin' up just fine.

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/moparracing_2008/pir 9-26-08/?action=view&current=run7.flv

moparracing said:

mine's closer to the top & have had no issues with it in last 13k miles....... mine are mostly @ the track these days, holdin' up just fine.

http://s260.photobucket.com/albums/ii31/moparracing_2008/pir 9-26-08/?action=view&current=run7.flv

Click to expand...

Dude, loved the vid! Yeah i would say your clutch is doing pretty well :burnout: :rock: :rock:

Hmmm, i assume that means i need to bleed the hydraulics and if that doesn't
work i will need to resurface my flywheel, buy a new clutch, and get my
syncros replaced crap..

Sharpimage said:

Dude, loved the vid! Yeah i would say your clutch is doing pretty well :burnout: :rock: :rock:

Hmmm, i assume that means i need to bleed the hydraulics and if that doesn't
work i will need to resurface my flywheel, buy a new clutch, and get my
syncros replaced crap..

Click to expand...

some seem to have issues with the bleeding of the hydraulics & some the slave cylinder just fails....... any oil under the transmission or are you using any ?:dontknow:

btw, if you end up replacing your clutch, the fidanza clutch to surface plate is replaceable (cheaper, see link) ...... or you could just put the oem flywheel back in (oem ~$250.00)....

http://www.roeracing.com/ProductCart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=92&idproduct=392

moparracing said:

some seem to have issues with the bleeding of the hydraulics & some the slave cylinder just fails....... any oil under the transmission or are you using any ?:dontknow:

Click to expand...

The rear of the transmission looks a little oily but not dripping to any extent..
I'm gonna go take some pictures and post'em in a sec

Sharpimage said:

The rear of the transmission looks a little oily but not dripping to any extent..
I'm gonna go take some pictures and post'em in a sec

Click to expand...

if it were the slave cylinder, i would think the oil would be coming from the front of the transmission......

On my second CenterForce...break-in is critical.

A full 500 miles in city driving with no hard acceleration.

I also think that the extra slipping of the clutch with the low weight of the Fidanza is a problem. I have gone back to the OEM flywheel with the second CenterForce and have had no problems.

It engages very near the top of the pedal travel.

Prof said:

I also think that the extra slipping of the clutch with the low weight of the Fidanza is a problem. I have gone back to the OEM flywheel with the second CenterForce and have had no problems.

It engages very near the top of the pedal travel.

Click to expand...

i have had the fidanza for last 13k & alot of track time - w/o issues & it also engages near the top..... this seems more a hydraulics issue to me rather than flywheel preference.

moparracing said:

if it were the slave cylinder, i would think the oil would be coming from the front of the transmission......

Click to expand...

Yeah, i don't think it's the master or slave.. My break in period was 500 highway miles.. Not sure if it matters but i did do them on the highway.. Also,
here are some pictures i just took.



Regarding bleeding the system.. I've read some posts and i think it's just as
simple as unscrewing that nut above the input line.. Also, what fluid should i
replacing it with? I think it has to be DOT4 but any particular brand?

Prof said:

On my second CenterForce...break-in is critical.

A full 500 miles in city driving with no hard acceleration.

I also think that the extra slipping of the clutch with the low weight of the Fidanza is a problem. I have gone back to the OEM flywheel with the second CenterForce and have had no problems.

It engages very near the top of the pedal travel.

Click to expand...

Just read this... Since it was highway miles that means my clutch is shot for good?

Sharpimage said:

Regarding bleeding the system.. I've read some posts and i think it's just as
simple as unscrewing that nut above the input line.. Also, what fluid should i
replacing it with? I think it has to be DOT4 but any particular brand?

Click to expand...

if you don't feel confident bleeding the hydraulics, take it in (it's what i did).

I am not ready to say that, but the repeated engagement and disengagement of the clutch is what is required. Your clutch may well be fine, but it is a better candidate than the trans. These transmissions are strong and relatively trouble free (the six speeds).

Master and Slave are candidates, fluid is a possibility, heat could have warped something if you have not gone to the Viper Master and Slave.

Prof said:

I am not ready to say that, but the repeated engagement and disengagement of the clutch is what is required. Your clutch may well be fine, but it is a better candidate than the trans. These transmissions are strong and relatively trouble free (the six speeds).

Master and Slave are candidates, fluid is a possibility, heat could have warped something if you have not gone to the Viper Master and Slave.

Click to expand...

Hmmm, Thanks Prof :rock: I think i'm gonna call the Viper tech on monday
and see if he can just take a look for me.. I mean, if i did take this whole
thing apart i still need a second opinion on the clutch and flywheel so i would
need to bring it to him anyways.. I'll keep you folks posted.

Regards,

Andrew

Alright folks got an update! I talked to Roger at Centerforce today and he had
me do a test to check and make sure the clutch is disengaging properly.

Disengagement test:

1) Jack the rear end of the truck up so both the left and right rear wheels are
off the ground.
2) Get in the truck, turn it on, and put it in 1st.
3) If the rear wheels spin with the the pedal all the way down then the clutch
is not disengaging properly. Also keep in mind that the wheels might spin to
some extent due to kinetic friction? Anyways, just have someone put their
hand or foot on the tire and if it still spins then it's the clutch otherwise your ok.

So it's not the clutch even though it's engaging fairly lower than it should.. I
talked to the local viper tech about this and he said to do the test again because
the clutch needs to be hot. Well, i did it again and again the clutch is fine. On
a side note Roger said that the clutch being warm has very little if anything to
do with it's "grabbing" potental. However, he did say that this is generally the
case with the organic clutches they sell. Another thing he mentioned was that
the Red Line full synth. fluid i put in could be the problem. He said the tansmission
needs a little bit of resistance to keep things from moving too freely? Anyways,
he suggested that i replace the fluid and see if that changes anything..

So is there a fluid that isn't fully synth. that is better than the stock sludge?
I probably will do a tranny rebuild here soon but i want to try the fluid change
first and see if that makes any difference.

Regards,

Andrew