OSO
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I new i wasn't tripping over something in the garage.Ironhead said:
Any old school 727 builders on here?
- Thread starter OSO
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yellowfever#154
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OSO said:
I had a local shop build me one for my Javelin. Its been a while so I forget all what was done exactly. There was different planetaries, clutchs, sprag, reverse manual shift body, hmm what else???? I dont remember, but it was about 2K I think to have it built. So far so good, but I dont have too many miles on it. Talk about hard shifts, it will bang gears so hard it damn nears breaks your neck.
OSO
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yellowfever#154 said:I had a local shop build me one for my Javelin. Its been a while so I forget all what was done exactly. There was different planetaries, clutchs, sprag, reverse manual shift body, hmm what else???? I dont remember, but it was about 2K I think to have it built. So far so good, but I dont have too many miles on it. Talk about hard shifts, it will bang gears so hard it damn nears breaks your neck.
Well we will see if this one qualifies as "built" after a few passes. Everybody agrees on one thing the weight of the truck is the killing factor. I am kind of excited about this build because the new lower gear ratio for first and second should make the truck a bit funner in between stop lights. I am going from a 11.17 final gear ratio in first to a 12.63 . It will be the equivalent of having about a 5.10 rear gear. Right now i can run a 12.9 with a 2.0 60' so i am hoping for some better et's when its all done.
mopower1958
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Make sure you have a billet clutch drum in it so it does not explode if the sprague brakes. Bolt in sprague and billet drum are the essential torqueflite upgrades along with no first gear burnouts unless you have a low band apply valve body.
OSO
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Still using stock clutch drum with bolt in sprag with no low band apply so lets just hope it holds. If it makes it a few months of just driving and no 1/4 mile runs i will upgrade a few more parts . That will include the low band apply and a few lighter billet parts. Might be another grand or more but i can get close to dropping 8 lbs of rotating weight in the trans.mopower1958 said:
mopower1958
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The stock drum is ok for regular street driving but it is made out of powdered metal and if the sprague fails the drum explodes and when it explodes it takes out the whole transmission assembly,floor pans and has broken some feet. If you go with a Griner trans brake be sure to use billet servos because his valve bodies run more pressure than anyone else and the factory servos will crack. A&A transmissions or Cope Racing Transmissions (CRT) can fix you up as they race what they sale.
OSO
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Cope is where im getting every thing now. First time trans failed sprag started to come apart but i think something else caused it i dont believe it was a hp issue.mopower1958 said:
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OSO
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Lets see if anyone can answer this, I now found what i consider two other problems. (PIC 1)First the clearance between the bushing of the input shaft and the tip of the output shaft i cant find any specs on how tight if at all it should be. (PIC 1&2)Second the bottom inner edge of the input shaft is chipping should i replace it or grind/sand it smooth or doesn't matter just make sure noting else is going to fall off?
OSO
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Here are a few more shots of the question area.
Begood
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I have a Cope billet drum in my Duster trans. I though it was cheap insurance.
Bill.
Bill.
Fahrenheit
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The input shaft looks like you have been putting some heat on it due to the discoloration.....is it suppose to be like that?
OSO
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You "thought" does that mean it didn't work???? I have a feeling i might just have to bite the bullet ans spend another 1500 on internals or give up.Begood said:
I think your looking at the planetary housing its welded together , thats my 475 dollar lower first and 2nd gear.Fahrenheit said:
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Fahrenheit
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got ya....you can tell I know nothing about the inside of a transmission
OSO
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That makes two of us.Fahrenheit said:
OSO
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Well getting close to the final assembly and feeling like this one should last no corners cut other than spending another 2000k for billet parts which i dont think i need unless i start spraying some go go juice.
All clearances have been checked and rechecked but i still have all of these parts left over
All clearances have been checked and rechecked but i still have all of these parts left over
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OSO
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If it last for a few months with no problems i will go back in and replace a few more of the high dollar items just to ease my mind. I just didn't want to test my trans capabilities with 2000-2500 dollars worth of billet internals.ZCx said:
So if it last i will replace output shaft input shaft front drum and have the case machined for a bearing to support the over running clutch. Just money right :dontknow:.OSO
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This wont mean much to most since i am working on a 727 but i just found what most likely killed my last trans. The dumb f#($ that built the last one drilled and tapped the rear sprag after it was pressed in Leaving all of the shavings floating around. Just venting!!!!!
bigike
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DUDE QUIT BITCHING ABOUT YOUR TRANSMISSION!!!!!!!!!!!
For those that don't know me.................. THAT WAS A JOKE!
For those that don't know me.................. THAT WAS A JOKE!
Fahrenheit
Full Access Member
wow I know enough that you shouldnt have metal shavings in your tranny
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