back to my heat problem

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shorty

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Here is the new info on my heating problem. New radiator cap, added anti-freeze to overflow jug as the radiator was full. Remember that it always ran 1.5 inches low. Now it is at top. Drove about 50 miles and then got up to speed (80 mph---legal in Texas). The oil temp gauge and dash gage went to 200 so I turned off the air-conditioned and turned on the heater. Also dropped speed to 70 and the temp went down to about 195-198. Turned on the air and no rise in temp. Went back up to 80 and gauge went to 200. Pulled over and removed the cap----zero pressure. About 2 inches of fluid left the overflow and stuck my big finger in the radiator. Hot but did not burn. Drove another 180 miles and could run 80 without air or 70 with.
In the old days when you overheated and turned on the heater to cool the temp down that usually meant you had a reduced flow radiator. Is the only way to check the fan is leave it running while the truck is hot and take a peek? Is 200too hot for these trucks?
Baffled and do appreciate all the help. :dontknow::dontknow:
 
Also---how does one tell if there is air in the system? Sounds dumb but I figure if the fluid level is down a couple of inches and after running it is up to full that could mean air. :dontknow:

Also the fluid was flowing briskly when I opened the radiator so guess thermostat is working properly.

Patience please, I'm old and a little dense when they did away with points, condensers and carbs.
 
That's cold for oil temp, also I believe the stock thermostat is a 195 so 200 is not bad at all..
 
it all seems normal.... but do not ever.. remove the radiator cap after running that engine to operating temps!!! You will be scalded!! with a 15 # cap the coolant temp can reach 230 F. once you release the pressure by opening the cap it will flash instantaneously to steam!!
 
Oil Temp for me is between 180-200 depending on how hot it is outside, engine temp is always just to the left of 200. Doesn't sound to out of the normal?
 
I fully understand the removal of the radiator cap when hot. I use heavy fabric to loosen and as I said, no pressure whatsoever. The coolant was not so hot that I could not put my finger in it.

Question, why was there no pressure on the radiator cap when the gauges read 195 to 200? :dontknow:

Thanks for all the input. Still looking as I do not want to rebuild just yet.
 
have you taken a look at your oil? Might be a head gasket leak that is keeping the coolant system from building pressure but still allowing the coolant in the engine near the sensor to build heat. Oil will have a milky appearance if coolant is getting into it. The things that stand out from your comments as being abnormal are 1) no pressure in the system when you open the thermostat; 2) excessive variation between coolant temperature in the radiator and temperature at the engine (you shouldn't be able to touch 200 degree coolant with your finger). 3) coolant level dropping after short period of time/driving.
I am not positive about this but I also believe that the stock hydraulic fan comes on at a certain temperature or when the AC compressor is on. You could watch the fan as someone turns the AC off/on to see if it cycles.
 
Thanks so much for the advice. 1st thing I checked was the oil as I blew a head gasket on an old '58 Ford and milky oil was the sign. Oil good, level good but this am while cool I checked the fluid level. Again, I added maybe a quart. Will check out the fan today and thanks again for the help.
 
Again, good advice. Headed to the beach today and show off my purdy red truck. Thinking I was not used to seeing the temp go up as never driven it in above 80 degrees. Got to 99 on my trip so will keep an eye on everything.

Thanks to all and we shall see what happens today. with the temp, not the girls. :D
 
You sure you have the coolant overflow to the right port on the reservoir? When the system gets hot the coolant expands and pushes out to the reservoir, then when it cools the system creates a vacume and pulls the coolant back into the radiator.
If the hose going to the overflow tank is hooked to the vent rather then the bottom port then it will not be able to flow back to the radiator, also your radiator cap could be faulty, you need to test what psi it relieves at. And whether or not the check valve is working.
 
thanks a bunch, yes the hoses are correct as it does take fluid from the overflow. new cap, but----when I went out this morning the level was down about 1.5 inches so I added anti-freeze to top it off. low and behold after a trip of 20 miles the pressure cap had pressure. this may be what they are talking about "air pockets" but not sure.

thanks for the advice.
 
seethrough said:
have you taken a look at your oil? Might be a head gasket leak that is keeping the coolant system from building pressure but still allowing the coolant in the engine near the sensor to build heat. Oil will have a milky appearance if coolant is getting into it. The things that stand out from your comments as being abnormal are 1) no pressure in the system when you open the thermostat; 2) excessive variation between coolant temperature in the radiator and temperature at the engine (you shouldn't be able to touch 200 degree coolant with your finger). 3) coolant level dropping after short period of time/driving.
I am not positive about this but I also believe that the stock hydraulic fan comes on at a certain temperature or when the AC compressor is on. You could watch the fan as someone turns the AC off/on to see if it cycles.
Click to expand...

shorty said:
thanks a bunch, yes the hoses are correct as it does take fluid from the overflow. new cap, but----when I went out this morning the level was down about 1.5 inches so I added anti-freeze to top it off. low and behold after a trip of 20 miles the pressure cap had pressure. this may be what they are talking about "air pockets" but not sure.

thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

Yessir, the system can "burp" or "bleed" air through the radiator cap as well as the bleeder port :)
You haven't had any cooling system work though have you? Usually as long as system stays sealed it'll keep coolant level and not introduce air. Pinholes on hoses are next suspect.
 
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