Be Smart or... burn it down?

[ZRT10]

What things should I fortify before getting my belanger headers and hi flows? This is my dd. Or, what should I fortify in general for longevity and ability to withstand temps and stress?

Anything need to have heat sleeves on them?
Steel Braided Oil lines: 260
Power Steering lines: 260
O2 Extensions: 125
New Vacuum tubes b/c mine currently are so brittle I've snapped them merely by moving them aside. They're spliced together in numerous spots with a small rubber hose and electrical tape.... and cruise control doesn't work
Any ignition parts?

I noticed the belanger headers come jet-hot coated. Is that the same as ceramic? If I don't catch this sale I'll still probably get them sometime down the road.

Also, I got under the truck today and noticed the magnaflow cb doesn't have an x-pipe. Does this mean it isn't tru-x? And does that mean I'd get some bad resonance/drone with headers and hi flows?

I'm also going to post a couple of pictures of the engine bay and label the various parts, hoses, and mo-bobs so aspiring hobbyists like me can pretend to know what parts are what and where they go. (In a reply to this. The attached pictures are of my muffler and no apparent x-pipe.)

 

[ZRT10]

I zoomed in and out a lot, so if you can't do that these pictures might be hard to make out. Here's what I think I know. Test your knowledge, or correct me b/c I'm sure a lot is wrong. The third attachment should be the first to look at, then 2 and 3- don't know why it loaded out of order

1 - Intake Plenum
2 - fuel rails
3 - fuel injector...wires?
4 - valve covers
5 - ?
6 - Throttle body
7- air intake... tube
8 - I don't know why that is taped
9 - throttle cable
10 - cruise control cable?
11 - IAC? or throttle body sensor?
12 - another sensor
13 - a third sensor
14 - window washer fluid reservoir
15 - upper radiator hose
16 - random wires covered in a plastic tube
17 - That is my fitch fuel catalyst setup- intercepts fuel line, runs fuel to the brown canister/catalyst, then back to the fuel rails, it is mounted to battery tray... it is supposed to purify the gas and "increase" octane - never going below 91 anyways...now that I look at it, the fuel pump has to push the fuel up to the canister, through whatever is inside, then back to the fuel rails... maybe I should put it on its side

18 - brake fluid reservoir?
19 - pump
20 - brake master cylinder
21 - On picture 2
a
b
c
d
e - vacuum line for the vacuum meter on the A-piller
f

Now on the passenger side
22 - a dipstick of some sort
23 - heater hoses (2) with coolant
24 - ?
25 - AC compressor
26 - metal thing going from radiator to ac compressor
27 - ?
28 - something radiator related?

On to Engine bay pic 2
29 - Battery wires, one ground the other I have no idea
30 - steering rack, pinion,
31 - exhaust manifold heat shield
32 - exhaust manifold

Picture 3
33 - ECM/PCM
34 - is the same as 22

 

[oldcolt]

You should wrap the following in quality heat tape: Cables from the ECU that run from the passenger side fender to the firewall - cook these and you will have a big repair bill. ABS sensor cables if they are close to the headers. Cables going to your starter.
I think you will be okay otherwise.

 

[ZRT10]

Awesome, thanks man. Doesn't sound like too much. I've just read of inner fenders melting, anything plastic really. With belangers I just need 02 extensions and oem gaskets right? I'll get a tune afterwards, probably.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Yes ceramic coated Belanger are what we sell boss. OEM gaskets.
No O2 extensions, no "simulators". Plug and play boss :burnout:

 

[oldcolt]

Awesome, thanks man. Doesn't sound like too much. I've just read of inner fenders melting, anything plastic really. With belangers I just need 02 extensions and oem gaskets right? I'll get a tune afterwards, probably.

My B&B's clearanced the inner fenders within a minute or two! No issues since.

 

[CantEven]

Awesome, thanks man. Doesn't sound like too much. I've just read of inner fenders melting, anything plastic really. With belangers I just need 02 extensions and oem gaskets right? I'll get a tune afterwards, probably.

I just got a set of Belanger headers. They recommend not tuning it until the 500 mile break in period. Comes with gaskets that mate up with the heads. They also recommend using high temp gasket maker for mating up the headers with the mid pipes/cats.

 

[CantEven]

SRT2SLOW is also selling Belanger Headers only for 1300. Might be able to make an offer. FYI.

 

[ViperPete]

I didn't wrap anything. I drive my truck HARD. No head related issues what so ever.

 

[TSINND]

I didn't wrap anything. I drive my truck HARD. No head related issues what so ever.

Mine are also not wrapped. No issues so far.

 

[ZCx]

i run Belangers on mine. 110K+ miles & i blame the starter failure on header heat & i see some deterioration on the boot on the steerin shaft. the way it feels its heat related.

but i wrapped the starter in heat wrap, so hopefully its good for a good while longer.

but other than that they have been a great upgrade over the years.

i did go with Totally Stainless header bolts & Comet header gaskets after the Belanger set up failed fairly quick

:rock::rock::burnout::burnout:

 

[ViperPete]

I will say however that I wrapped the living shit out of all electrical components/wires when i installed my longtubes on the Viper. Completely different animal. Not a lot of space. The Ram is very open.