Billet Main Caps...question

faslane505

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What is the point in modifications where these are needed/recomended?
 
I was told 900 plus HP. But when I opened my motor up to replace the pistons my mains were coming loose. I tried to find studs ,but the ARP studs only fit billet mains. So I now have billet mains. I would go with billet mains if you are 650 rwhp or more.
 
HV SRT said:
I was told 900 plus HP. But when I opened my motor up to replace the pistons my mains were coming loose. I tried to find studs ,but the ARP studs only fit billet mains. So I now have billet mains. I would go with billet mains if you are 650 rwhp or more.
Good insurance. If you are gonna spend the money on a forged build whats another 700.00
 
FATJACK said:
Good insurance. If you are gonna spend the money on a forged build whats another 700.00
$700 here $900 there $6500 here. What the hell before you know it you've spent more on mods than what I paid for the truck new.
 
the oem mains are weak to say the least , and very small, any boosted app, be it forced or nox, should have mains installed,
the difference between the two are huge.
oem mains will walk around and wear the bearings quickly.

but Jack you are a little off

$750 for bilet mains
$350 for arp stud kit
and anywhere from $400-$700 for machining the billet mains
 
Any rebuild on the GEN-3 (CREAM PUFF) Viper motor needs billet mains as the stock mains are very prone to walking around and fretting the block on the mating surfaces, causing irregular and accelerated main bearing wear.

The GEN-3 motor is called a "CREAM PUFF" because it is engineered for the minimum in block and reciprocating parts. This engine is very weak in stock form and needs a great deal of help if you are going to run it hard.

When increasing HP the best parts available are necessary to keep a "CREAM PUFF" motor alive for any length of time......:marchmellow::marchmellow::marchmellow::marchmellow::marchmellow::marchmellow:

This is the most expensive motor I have ever built x2, even with all the right stuff it can still be a crap shoot on how long it will last.

If I had any brains at all I would put a big alcohol rat in the silver truck and cut my cost and maintenance way down.....:elefant::elefant::elefant::elefant::elefant::elefant:
 
thanks guys..i think i got my answer...im pretty sure im gonna tear this bad boy down again...for the 4th time...and finally do f'n right...
 
We use these mains in engines that are used for racing or produce over 650hp. A properly assembled and blueprinted engine will work fine without this modification for normal use. Our Viper Competition Coupe Spec racers would run 2 seasons on a production-blueprinted engine (620hp).

When running billet mains, the setup is critical. Use a shop that understands how to do this. Stress relieving the block is critical when doing this.
 
my block has been relieved of stress for two years now:p
I want to give it some dang stress!!!!!!!!!!!!!:burnout: :burnout: :D
 
ive heard my builder talk about stress relieving but what exactly does that entail?
 
faslane505 said:
ive heard my builder talk about stress relieving but what exactly does that entail?

Stress relieving can be done several ways;
One is to heat and cool the parts or parts repeatedly to let the part find it's normal position after casting, forging, or machining.
It can also be done on a shaker table with high frequency vibrations.
It is sometimes done by shot blasting with different types of media. this process also blends the surface grain of the metal to prevent stress cracks or risers from opening up or growing.

The processes let the part find a normal position as the dimensions and or shape will change some over time.

This is done to make sure that the tolerances and positions of the parts are maintained.

IT keeps from breaking at stress points
It is sometimes also sometimes called normalizing.
 
My build used the Gen 4 main bearings with some additional oiling machine work.

I just have to believe that if an engine is going to be pulled down and rebuilt, billet mains are just part of the process. If expense is the limiting factor, then put it back stock and drive it like a daily driver. If a build is for high output, engine life seems to be directly proportional cost.

FstJack is right...the Gen 3 is expensive to build right. Some were critical of the $18k I spent...but it has been worth every penny, and mine is not a racing machine, just a weekend cruiser...
 
Prof said:
My build used the Gen 4 main bearings with some additional oiling machine work.

I just have to believe that if an engine is going to be pulled down and rebuilt, billet mains are just part of the process. If expense is the limiting factor, then put it back stock and drive it like a daily driver. If a build is for high output, engine life seems to be directly proportional cost.

FstJack is right...the Gen 3 is expensive to build right. Some were critical of the $18k I spent...but it has been worth every penny, and mine is not a racing machine, just a weekend cruiser...


Your exactly right Prof :rock: ,"Pay now or pay later!" and usually "later" is alot more money!!!
 

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