can a stock engine hold a S/C?

I would budget $10-15k. I'm sure it could be cheaper, but I would budget on the high side. Sounds like Stanssrt found a good shop that knows what they're doing.
 
VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
Not really that easy bro nor that inexpensive. Pistons and rods are weak links in our engines. Most piston/rod kits are based on Chevy parts and not "Made" for our engines. Tolerances can be machined to accept Chevy rods, pistons, and even lifters! Problem with these parts is being offset pins in pistons putting additional stress on cylinder walls due to offsets. Use parts designed for the Viper engine!! You also need to figure in bearings, gaskets, seals, etc. while in there may as well add a cam, lifters, valve springs and pushrods. It's very much a dominoe effect but it is common sense to do it all at once while inside. Plan your machine shop to have a few thousand in balancing and blue printing short block.
It's the best investment for your dollar! It's the basis for any build whether Chevy, Dodge, Furd, whatever make. If you plan to spray, boost, or bump compression it should be your first consideration.
There are reasonable amounts of boost or spray with the Correct tune that can lead to many miles of fun, but usually one will keep going for more.....
then Kablooey!!
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Sorry Scott I worded that way wrong! I meant changing everything out to do an N/A build including cam, lifters, gaskets, etc... What I meant about leaving stock was anything below the pistons(rods, crank, bearings, etc...)
 
It can be done BUT there's always this risk............;)


I'll agree most of it is in the tune BUT on a factory engine ESPECIALLY with the roe be very careful!!:)
 
Find someone who knows how to build Viper engines, not someone who always wanted to. Tuning is key. Even with my build, I would not go over 600rwhp without going back in and forging the bottom end.:)
 
Maybe it's just me but if your not going to do all the internals isn't spending the money on a s/c a waist because you can make better power than that with heads and a cam for less money
 
Overkillsrt said:
Maybe it's just me but if your not going to do all the internals isn't spending the money on a s/c a waist because you can make better power than that with heads and a cam for less money
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I guess it depends on what you like. Some guys really like the sound of the Roe, even if they have to make less power. Some guys have raised the boost and paid the price. No matter what you choose, spend the money to have Chris or Torrie dyno tune your engine. Canned tunes can only do so much.
 
My bottom end went @ 610 whp w/ a Roe Kit. Motor's built now and back in the truck as of this week and should have it tuned sometime in the next two weeks. My pops bottom end went running a 150 shot, after building his w/a Paxton @ 11 lbs he's making 717 rwhp on pump. I'll update once I get mine back and see how it does. Roe vs Paxton
 
BigTruck_Srt10 said:
My bottom end went @ 610 whp w/ a Roe Kit. Motor's built now and back in the truck as of this week and should have it tuned sometime in the next two weeks. My pops bottom end went running a 150 shot, after building his w/a Paxton @ 11 lbs he's making 717 rwhp on pump. I'll update once I get mine back and see how it does. Roe vs Paxton
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Welcome to the rbc. Pics of the trucks?
 
BigTruck_Srt10 said:
My bottom end went @ 610 whp w/ a Roe Kit. Motor's built now and back in the truck as of this week and should have it tuned sometime in the next two weeks. My pops bottom end went running a 150 shot, after building his w/a Paxton @ 11 lbs he's making 717 rwhp on pump. I'll update once I get mine back and see how it does. Roe vs Paxton
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Everyone says it went at xxx whp or under a 150 shot or whatever case may be, but how long did they sustain these numbers or nitrous hits? Piston ring land give? Always good to hear facts relating to these engines. :burnout:
Welcome to the club
 
Thx for the welcome fellas. My pops was spraying his for a couple years, it held up well for several K miles. Beat the hell out of it too, definelty got his $$'s worth before it went. Mine ran ok for a 5k miles, I started getting blow back out the valve cover filters and exhaust, then i retuned it then two days later it went. I'll get pictures up soon, here's a video of my pops dyno.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXWUOU01V4U&feature=youtube_gdata_player]Dodge SRT10 Supercharged Paxton Supercharger 717 Rwhp Pump Gas Tuned with SCT by Serious HP - YouTube[/ame]
 
Nice looking truck your pops has. Just curious why he removed the rear bumper and cladding and put the roll pan on?:dontknow:
 
I lost a ring land on a stock engine running a ROE at 590HP, but it could be blamed on the VEC III I was using.

Now 16k into the engine and 11k later into a Procharger, it's been bullet proof so far. Final tune will be done in two weeks.
 
Detonation kills our engines. The 1st piston ring land is so close to the top of the piston that the detonation may crack the top ring land causing premature engine damage. The cast pistons and rods are also really weak and should not push north of 650HP even with a safe tune NA or supercharged. A few Roe guys like Prof unknowingly had cracked ring lands before they went to forged and built internals.

Find a great tuner like Chris Jensen. Always use a high octane fuel for insurance. For stock internals don't push more than 6.5 lbs of boost and don't go over 5500 rpm's due to possible oil cavitation issues.

If using NO2 for a liquid supercharger use a 2 step colder plug and never "Hot Lap" at the track. I wouldn't go over a 175 wet shot on 110 octane min racing fuel. Don't use the NOS before 2800 rpm's and shift before 5500 rpm's.
 
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