Changed tps and Idle control valve and she still hangs up

THEWELSHM

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Ok I changed both valves and retuned with SCT tuner cleaned airfilter checked all hoses no leaks. Idles great 90 percent of the time but now and again hangs up and hunts?????:dontknow::dontknow::dontknow::dontknow: and its starting to piss me off:D:D:D:D:D anyone had the same.

thewelshm
 
Don’t ask me cause I don’t know :dontknow:but mine did the same thing-----until I had the tranny rebuilt. :dontknow: I believe is has a lot to do with the solenoids in the tranny. Seems that the cruise, idle and pulsing of the engine (2-400 rpm) is all interconnected with computer codes caused with my tranny problems. My torque convertor was out or going out and this caused different codes so pop up which in turn caused all manner of problems with the idle and rpm while in cruise and after I started the cold engine. I have zero problems with the pulsing at idle and while in cruse once the tranny was rebuild properly. :rock:
 
Mine does the same but took off the cruise control line and it stopped

That is interesting.... My idle surges. If I set the voltage to .68V It will idle fine but will "stick". once i unstick it,by applying some throttle, it will high idle and then surge. feels like the blades are rubbing in the port. Now what bothers me is that ....when i cruise down the highway at a specific speed holding the pedal manually it drives great. Once i engage the cruise control , it will surge.................I will have to investigate the cruise control Idea.. thanx :rock: To much winter here :mad: Kinda tough to get it out ! 11 more weeks till spring!
 
I searched high and low for an air leak. clamped down every possible connection. not sure if that was it or not, but its gotten better (kind of)
 
Mine would do the same thing. The BBK was the culprit. Replaced TPS and IAC and no change. Sent back to BBK and awaiting their answer. I think the TB was cast improperly.
 
My BBk did that to, i took the blades out sanded any rough edges off then when i put the blades back in i put .002 feeler gauges in three spots and tightened. been good since
 
That is my next plan of action is to remove and dismantle the BBK to smooth the edges that seem to catch. with the TPS reading the required .68 v . I am curious about the cruise control . It could hold the blades open under vacuum. I get a surge with cruise control on and no surge with out. seems odd.
 
That is my next plan of action is to remove and dismantle the BBK to smooth the edges that seem to catch. with the TPS reading the required .68 v . I am curious about the cruise control . It could hold the blades open under vacuum. I get a surge with cruise control on and no surge with out. seems odd.

Mine does it also on rare occasion seemingly moreso when its cold. I have a Roe SB and NO cruise. Seems to still be related to the TPS and internal spring not returning to that .68, or at least my thoughts. Regardless the hood, moisture/water gets on the TPS and I believe causes some issue.
 
the blades on mine weren't centered and were dragging on one side of the housing, mine surges with the cc as well, like it over accelerates and lets off I’m going to try it in 5th next time(four months from now) and see what happens
 
Randy, You say you filed down the edges on the TB and you still have a surge with the cruise? How is it without the cruise? with just your foot?
 
Good, mine would hang up at idle. i think the cc thing is a different issue its like it accelerates to its set point over shoots it lets off, over shoots and so on. thats why i was going to try it in 5th, more power and hold the speed with less compensating. or try your stock tune i cant remember if mine did it with the stock tune or not.
 
I think the key is to , with the engine warm and idling ,plug off the IAC tube completely! so it gets no air. then adjust the idle with the throttle adjusting screw until it stalls, constantly checking if the blades are "sticking". If they stick and or drag at all with out the engine stalling, then the TB needs to be removed and rectify the binding. Reinstall and continue until the engine just stalls and there is no binding or scraping. The voltage can then be checked and the IAC can then be unplugged and reattached. I believe the IAC cannot do it's job properly without this adjustment. If the engine can idle with out the IAC it cannot control the idle. I just havn't found the time to try this.....
 
If you pinch off the IAC tube and it doesn't stall the blades will be visibly open, take off your air intake and try to stick a .002-.003 feeler all around the blades
 
Whats also weird is that when I retune again its ok for an hour or two, is it possible that the replacement ICV is bad?

thewelshm
 
The stock TB has no adjustment. Your idle is being manipulated by a bad sensor. ......not sure which one. reinstall tune and check the TPS voltage. then when the truck is surging at idle check the voltage at the TPS. monitor it while it is surging to see if the voltage is changing.
 
That's an awful lot of work to get a BBK to work as it should. Especially when multiple owners have idling issues.

I tell you what though, having a 500 hp vehicle with its own cruise control is fucking dangerous. A few times I almost whacked into the back of people. Fuck that thing. They need to make them right.
 

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