Diff/Tranny Fluid and Spark Plugs??

[USMC11]

I've got over 100K on my engine and have used only what the manufacture recommended. Yes, including 0-40W engine oil. I did speak with a Tremec engineer and he confirmed what TNViper is posting but stated if I'm not having an issue with cold weather shifting his recommendation was NOT to change the oil. He said he'd much prefer that the end user continue using the same oil throughout its life. i.e. pick one and stick with it.

In my 100K of experience the two fluids that you really need to flush more often then recommended is the manual clutch fluid and brake fluid. I flush my clutch every oil change (takes all of 10 min) and my brake fluid every 10K. Im still on my original clutch and all components.

How do you flush the clutch?

 

[TNVIPER]

How do you flush the clutch?

He is talking about the hydrolic system or clutch fluid....which is really brake fluid....and he is right...flush (bleeding) the fluid will keep the truck shifting better....

 

[USMC11]

He is talking about the hydrolic system or clutch fluid....which is really brake fluid....and he is right...flush (bleeding) the fluid will keep the truck shifting better....

So basically bleeding the brakes fully and refilling..?

 

[TNVIPER]

So basically bleeding the brakes fully and refilling..?

Bleeding the brakes is a separate maintenance from bleeding the clutch fluid....somewhat similiar though...........link to another forum that just happened to have a thread on bleeding the clutch hydrolics..

http://www.srt10forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=493








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[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

if you have not ever bleed the clutch buddy, please, do your self a favor, take it somewhere, it dont cost too much and you will be much happier in the long run

 

[TNVIPER]

if you have not ever bleed the clutch buddy, please, do your self a favor, take it somewhere, it dont cost too much and you will be much happier in the long run

Good advice!!







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[USMC11]

Bleeding the brakes is a separate maintenance from bleeding the clutch fluid....somewhat similiar though...........link to another forum that just happened to have a thread on bleeding the clutch hydrolics..

http://www.srt10forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=493








..

Awesome, thanks man.

 

[USMC11]

if you have not ever bleed the clutch buddy, please, do your self a favor, take it somewhere, it dont cost too much and you will be much happier in the long run

I appreciate the word of caution JTS . I think it's very good advice. I'm going to read through the how to and do some studying on it. I'm pretty handy so my goal is to learn everything about this truck so I don't have to trust it to a mechanic. Knowing me, I'll probably end up tackling it. Wish me luck hehe!

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

you can do it, but y ou need two people, and you really have to take your time, if you do things too quickly the fluid will "air up" and you have to wait, so jsut take your time, do it slo, and you will do just fine buddy, most of the guys I have tried to walk thru it sit and pump the pedal quickly, and well that just gets ya in trouble LOLOL

 

[Chuck B]

At the very least simply sux out the fluid in the resv and replace with new. There's not much fluid for the clutch system whereas the brake system takes a full bottle. And it can be done by yourself. Some will use a speed bleeder however I prefer to power flush using this...

Harbor Freight HP oil can

 

[Vman455]

At the very least simply sux out the fluid in the resv and replace with new. There's not much fluid for the clutch system whereas the brake system takes a full bottle. And it can be done by yourself. Some will use a speed bleeder however I prefer to power flush using this...

Harbor Freight HP oil can

A tip from Chuck Tator, the "Viper Wizard": siphon the fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new. Pump clutch pedal 20-30 times. Repeat 2-3 times. 90% of the fluid changed, no bleeding necessary.

 

[evanandretti]

A tip from Chuck Tator, the "Viper Wizard": siphon the fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new. Pump clutch pedal 20-30 times. Repeat 2-3 times. 90% of the fluid changed, no bleeding necessary.

Sounds alot easier - might have to try that!

 

[USMC11]

Does anyone else's engine oil cap say 10-30 oil??

 

[TheMoparConnection]

Does anyone else's engine oil cap say 10-30 oil??

Yeah all the o4's came with the oil cap that read 10-30, then they switched to 0-40 for 05-06

 

[USMC11]

Yeah all the o4's came with the oil cap that read 10-30, then they switched to 0-40 for 05-06

Any difference in the motors to warrant the change??

 

[USMC11]

Any difference in the motors to warrant the change??

Anybody?

 

[TNVIPER]

Anybody?

Not official but I was told that 30W was used in the 04s to get the "fastest production truck" status......lower weight oil lets the engine turn easier making more HP.....but not good for DD.....the change to 0W40 helped quiet the valve train...

 

[USMC11]

Not official but I was told that 30W was used in the 04s to get the "fastest production truck" status......lower weight oil lets the engine turn easier making more HP.....but not good for DD.....the change to 0W40 helped quiet the valve train...

Is there any difference in the engines?

 

[TNVIPER]

Is there any difference in the engines?

for the most part no...all parts are interchangable...only minor differences like valve cover vents in the back on 04s...front on the 05/06 models......QC engines have different bolt pattern for trans hookup...auto vs manual...

 

[Vman455]

Is there any difference in the engines?

No difference in the engines. The switch to 0W-40 was done mainly to maintain the level of anti-wear additives. Mobil 0W-40 is a European oil certified for passenger car diesels, which allows higher levels of zinc and phosphorus. API-SM oils, that certification coming into effect in November 2005 (if I remember correctly), contain lower amounts of those anti-wear ingredients, much lower than what was available in passenger car motor oils when the Viper engine was originally developed in the early 90s. If you search the Viper Club of America forums for "oil" you'll find pages of threads devoted to the subject, many by the resident oil and fluids guru/retired Texaco formulator (who has over 100,000 miles on his Gen I and uses mineral diesel oil 15W-40 year-round, by the way).