Harmonic Balancer and Crank Pulley (NEED HELP)

[1BADTRK]

Yesterday mine just fell off. Looks like the bolt that holds it on just backed out and fell of. I got the Paxton S/Con my truck so it also had a 1/8 pin on each side of the bolt and just sheared them off as well. Has anyone had this problem before and how can i avoid this problem again. I thought about trying to tack weld the bolt to the pulley to stop it from backing out again. Any information on this problem would be great.

 

[ZCx]

man don't sound good.

if it was pinned & it sheared them off, need to look real close to the crank nose & inside of pulley

 

[SRT10VENOMOUS]

this is extreamly common with the 10s, they were never tightned from the factory or if your installer didnt tighten it to spec they fall off.. a little locktight and crank it to spec and you will be fine...

 

[yellowfever#154]

man don't sound good.

if it was pinned & it sheared them off, need to look real close to the crank nose & inside of pulley

I agree with this, for it to shear the pins is not common. Did something that is driven by the belts (alternator, steering pump, idler, etc) seize and cause this or was the crank bolt that loose that it eventually sheared the pins? Either way this is not good. The crank snout needs to be inspect, if there is any galling the crank needs to be replaced. Check the dampner as well and same thing, it needs to be smooth.

Also, dont weld anything that is not a good idea.

 

[Michael from the U.K.]

Mine did just that,the Paxton pins are shyt,i got some heavy duty ones from Roe Racing along with a new pulley,Sean Roe is a really nice helpfull guy give him a ring.Make sure the end of your crank aint focked first tho'.

 

[LitemUp]

Man this is not good. Hopefully you didn't damage the crank snout of the crank. If you didn't you could try re-pinning with some bigger pins from Roe, but this will not eliminate the problem. Here comes the bad news if you damage the crank snout then you will need a new crank. The bolts that hold the balancer in can always work themselves back out again. The only way to keep this from happening again is by keying the crank and using an ATI balancer. When I had my install done I opted to pay a little bit more and had this done. Hope this helps.

 

[QuickSilver]

this is extreamly common with the 10s, they were never tightned from the factory or if your installer didnt tighten it to spec they fall off.. a little locktight and crank it to spec and you will be fine...

........... what he said, these bolts have tq.#'s, it's in the manual, or on-line :elefant:
In '04 when it all started with these Trucks there were about 2 out of every 25/Trucks that had bolts that had not been tq'd. to the right number.
And not just crank-bolts, so check-her-out real good.......

Quick

 

[scoobert]

yeah when i got mine two were hand tight. glad i did it the first day, last owner had no clue!

 

[ZCx]

yeah when i got mine two were hand tight. glad i did it the first day, last owner had no clue!

talkin bout the main bolt that holds the damper to the crankshaft. '05 manual says 130 ft lb torque. sure there is a +/- to the spec

 

[1BADTRK]

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I got a new Harmonic Balancer yesterday but, they didn't have the pulley in stock so now i got to wait on it to come in. Also waiting on some 1/4 pins to come from Sean at Roe Racing, they should be here tomorrow. It don't look like it messed up the end of the crank. It wore the inside of the balancer down 3/16 though. Hopefully it won't be that hard to install the new one with removing anything. Thanks for all the info on this problem.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Wow, good thing the crank is harder than the balancer, 3/16 is huge. That sucker was spinning for a long time on the crank. Didnt you notice lower boost, higher than normal engine temps, or low alternator voltage?

There are special tools for installing balancers, dont use a hammer.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...group_ID=12560&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[1BADTRK]

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Well when it happened i was stuck in the friday 5:00 traffic and i couldn't go no were. At first i thought my power stearing pump went out, but when i got to looking at the gauges the temp was going up at the battery gauge was down. So i knew something wasn't good. I think it was about 5 minutes till i finally got to get out of the traffic so i could check for the problem. The new balancer ID measures 1-3/8 and the old one is 3/16 bigger, thats how much wore down in 5 minutes.

 

[1BADTRK]

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Thanks for the info on the balancer installer. I'll be sure to get one.

 

[yellowfever#154]

Crazy how fast it will wear it down. Also there will be cheaper versions of the balancer installer around, you dont necessary have to get one from Snap On.

 

[1BADTRK]

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I was also wondering, does the balancer have to be in a certain way? And it shouldn't need to be timed again right?

 

[yellowfever#154]

Nope, it can go on whichever way you decide.

 

[1BADTRK]

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Ok, thanks for all the help and info on this.

 

[RagunCajun]

Any word if you will have to ship the truck off?

 

[scoobert]

talkin bout the main bolt that holds the damper to the crankshaft. '05 manual says 130 ft lb torque. sure there is a +/- to the spec

i have never had it off, so dumb question what do the 6 bolts do?

 

[scoobert]

Crazy how fast it will wear it down. Also there will be cheaper versions of the balancer installer around, you dont necessary have to get one from Snap On.

advanced auto and a few other places have free loaner tools.