91 is the best available from Colorado, west. At least that's been my experience.
Heads and Cam, Custom Intake.....coming
- Thread starter Trainman
- Start date
No he runs on some off brand dyno that u remove the wheels and attach to a machine. He got another 100rwhp with exhaust,tune,intake and a couple other small mods that would produce maybe half of that if you were lucky.
Trainman's Race Tune Pull #1 541 HP - trainman's race tune pull #1 541 hp
Jerry's been consistent about stating that his dyno is merely a tuning tool. And his track times certainly do speak for themselves.
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No one is bashing him or track times. Just saying by what he has been said to have been doing on his build I don't see 700+rwhp on a mustang or dynojet.
He is expecting 830crank hp. ,, i would love to be wrong as that would put him down the track at an insane pace.
Works out to about 1.6 HP per cubic inch, on pump gas. I would think that would be attainable?
Assuming 515 cubic inches, the heads will need to flow 350cfm @ 28". This seems obtainable from the Gen 4's.
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moparviper
Full Access Member
He's running plenty of cam and compression to be there too. (11:1 & 244-252 @ .050, .700 lift).
I trust Greg Good, JMB, Todd Abrums, and Chris Jensen.....This SRT-10 build has had a lot of thought and planning put into it. Everyone has a personal interest in this project......I hope we prove you wrong. And we will be using a real dyno (at A&C Performance) , not the Dyna Pack, which was at DC Performance. I never really reported the dyna pack numbers as my real rwhp numbers, only referred to them in comparison to the Dynojet numbers. Stock engine with my exhaust and tuning made 510 rwhp spinning the stock wheels, and it made 541 rwhp on the dyna pack. I have always claimed 510 to the wheels. We will be doing a pull with my stock engine at A&C before we tear it down. It will be what it will be.......and we will be close.....I hope!:rock:
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Just found an article on them it states they are popular in japan and read about 20-22% higher than a Mustang dyno. So if the same dyno is used 700 will be a walk in the park
People seem a bit confused about the different types of dyno's and what numbers to expect out of them. So let's clear them up.
There are 3 types of chassis dyno's you'll run into in the USA. Dynojet, Dynapack, & Mustang. They all spit out slightly different HP/TQ numbers when you compare one brand to another (i.e. Dynojet vs Dynapack), but they are all 100% consistent if you stay on the same dyno every time. So if you are tracking your mods as you add them, go to the same shop every time.
95% of the shops in the USA are running one of these three dyno's:
1. Dynojet - most popular in the USA. Considered the "standard" here in the states since most shops utilize them. For our theoretical "car", the Dynojet will read 100 rwhp, & 100 ft/lbs of torque.
With this dyno you drive up to the rollers, they strap the car down, and do a full throttle pass in 3rd or 4th gear. The dyno will calculate the power based on how fast the car will spin the rollers. This is called an inertia based dyno.
For WOT power passes that you can compare to each other on the internet, Dynojet's are perfect. They're everywhere! But most do not have any sort of load simulating capability. Since 2005 more and more Dynojet's sold have their eddy current loading device. So you can ID them, Dynojets are typically red or black.
2. Mustang Dyno's - not as nearly as popular as the Dynojet's, but all performance shops that have Mustang dyno's DO have the capability to simulate load on the car to map ECU's. These are also great dyno's, are very accurate, simulate load very well, and are repeatable every time. They are also inertia based dyno's where you'll drive the car up on the rollers, strap the car down, and make a 3rd or 4th gear pass.
These dyno's will always read ~12% LOWER than a Dynojet, which is our standard here in the states (unless the shop has messed with the gearing settings in the computer). Because of this, lots of the internet folk don't like to use them. They come on the internet, share their results and everyone says "why didn't you make more power with mod XX". So our theoretical car will show 88rwhp on the Mustang dyno.
These dyno's will always be blue.
3. Dynapack - These are the red headed step children here in the states. Not as common as the Dynojet or Dynapack, but these are the standard in Japan. These are fundamentally COMPLETELY different that the inertia type dyno's.
With the Dynapack (my favorite), you remove the rear wheels, attach the hubs of the car to the "pods", and make your pass.
The load is simulated on the car via a hydraulic pump. Because these are effectively inertia-less, they will read HIGHER than the standard Dynojet numbers by 8-10%. That number will vary depending on how "fast" your dyno run lasts (sweep time), but as a rule of thumb, they'll read ~8-10% higher. So with this dyno our car will now read ~109rwhp on average.
The pods are always red, but these are easiest to ID. If they are taking off your wheels, it's a Dynapack!
And understand one thing when it comes to dyno graphs and product claims! Every dyno graph can be cheated by dishonest individuals/companies. All of them. So always take every dyno claim with a grain of salt. If they are cheating their tests, the truth eventually comes out (usually). Be a smart consumer!
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Sounds like I'm not the only one with some down time at the office.
We will try for 11:1, and there is no 93 available where I live.
You have no idea what you're talking about. When I have used the HP calculators based on ET and Trap Speed and weight of the vehicle I always come up with a horsepower estimate right at or above my actual dyno numbers. The truck is real....and your NA ET record is going to be history....maybe by as much as a full second....but we'll see.
Bro, you know there isn't a single person that reads a post that long.
Gerry your 541 is 10% high if you use a dyno jet which puts you at 486rhwp which is much more accurate for your mods
and if you want the honest numbers take another 8% off if you want to be the most accurate..
but yes da and hp calculators re definitely more accurate than a dyno .. Im not even sure why Dynos put out HP numbers since there are calculators.. A dyno should only put out air fuel if thats the case..
PS, I hope you smash the NA record it would be highly embarrassing if you did not, running a truck that is completely gutted and now properly modded you certainly should ...
again i care not about any NA record for myself I did not even want on the list as Drag racing to me is not what i define my life by.. perhaps you do and good for you, but I dont.
I built a street truck in full street trim with a bad ass NA build that was fast .. thats all i cared about having some fun..
But now I am build a purpose built race truck " but still maintaining full stock weight and appearance, " i don't do gutted ugly looking trucks, I dont do " ohh if i was in my race trim i would have won the race, let me go home and change my truck and ill come race again " sorry I run what i brung at the track or anywhere else someone wants some..
Sounds like I'm not the only one with some down time at the office.
yep taking the day off,My truck is not ugly....excuse me. When I'm at the strip you really can't tell I'm not stock , other than the missing mirrors....and most people don't notice....and by the way....I also run what I brung...it just happens to be lighter....plus I don't race on the street so I have plenty of time (being retired) to get the truck ready for the strip on race day. It's fun for me.....and I beat lots of Lightnings.....and boy are they going to be surprised in a few months!
The Dynapack, in my opinion, is the best dyno to do engine mapping, of course I am biased, as it was me running Jerrys truck on the dyno. Does it read higher than a Dynojet? It can, but as power measuring tool, it is very consistent, just as consistent as a Dynojet, which much better data logging resolution or precision, imho that is Dynojets biggest drawback. If you set a speed point on the Dynapack, it will hold it within + or - 5 rpm , in addition, because there is no inertia, just stick it in fourth gear, release the clutch and run it up wherever you punched in on the Dynapack keyboard. You need to hold the engine at:
608,
704,
800,
896,
992,
1152,
1344,
1600,
2016,
2336,
2784,
3136,
3616,
4160,
4896,
5408 rpm
and
15,
24,
31,
40,
53,
66,
79,
92,
105 kPa ?
If you have had the experience or opportunity of using all three of those dynos for engine mapping purposes, I imagine you would pick the Dynapack as well.
As far as doing back to back power runs, I don't mind using a Dynojet, Mustang, or Dynapack. For engine mapping, ie, when you need to hold a constant rpm and vary the load, the Dynapack is my hands down pick.
SrtBrad
Michel Productions
Can't wait for Jerry's build to finish. I bet you he beats Justin's 10 sec NO2 run NA and puts the NA record back where it belongs without any question. RIGHT KEN.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Can't wait for Jerry's build to finish. I bet you he beats Justin's 10 sec NO2 run NA and puts the NA record back where it belongs without any question. RIGHT KEN.
I hope he does but I predict an 11.00. Then spray that beast! :rock:
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