Help analyzing my drag time

34bud

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 23, 2009
Messages
130
Reaction score
0
Location
Colbert Wa
Went to the track this weekend and thought I would do better but maybe its all she has.
1st run- 60ft 2.05/ 1/4 -13.33 103.4 mph
2nd run- 60ft 2.31 1/4- 13.00 104.2 mph

2005 Q/C
Im equiped as follows:
Paxton making 5 lbs boost
Magnaflo catless mids
M&H drag radials set at 18lbs
DC performance tuned stock ecm

Track at 2200 ft
temp 60 degree
A/F @5lbs boost 12.5
1st pass I went from idle to wot
2nd pass I pre loaded convertor to 2000rpm
Does this sound ok?
Paxton says I should get 7 lbs but I think my 60ft time is off
 
Compare your times to the time slip section. You will see that your 60' times can be improved. Some guys are getting down in the 1.7 range. That will help quite a bit.

Good Luck and have fun.
Dale
 
oh Santeen....... where ya at?
I'm sure he will stop in and give you his opinion.
 
wesalbert said:
oh Santeen....... where ya at?
I'm sure he will stop in and give you his opinion.



Shhhhhhhh - you will wake him up
 
34bud said:
Went to the track this weekend and thought I would do better but maybe its all she has.
1st run- 60ft 2.05/ 1/4 -13.33 103.4 mph
2nd run- 60ft 2.31 1/4- 13.00 104.2 mph

2005 Q/C
Im equiped as follows:
Paxton making 5 lbs boost
Magnaflo catless mids
M&H drag radials set at 18lbs
DC performance tuned stock ecm

Track at 2200 ft
temp 60 degree
A/F @5lbs boost 12.5
1st pass I went from idle to wot
2nd pass I pre loaded convertor to 2000rpm
Does this sound ok?
Paxton says I should get 7 lbs but I think my 60ft time is off
You should be at least 1.8 - 1.9 60ft. And to make th emost out of your setup, contact Tony and get a torque converter. You'll be mid to low 12's easy. Also, look into getting an icebox, to run cold water through the air/water intercooler. It gets me an easy 3 tenths. Or get a meth injection set up to cool the intake temperatures down.
What doesnt make sense, is your 60ft was 3 tenths slower your second run. But you went 3 tenths faster in your elapsed time. Loading up yur converter to 2000 rpm, isnt gonna help much. I found my best 60ft with my stock converter, was launching at idle or just at 1000 rpm.
 
Last edited:
work on your launch, 60's will improve, with the oem convertor, take off at idle,

but did you spin at all?
is the rear planting?
have you had a real dyno tune, it makes a huge difference

with your times, mph, an using 5800lbs for a qc you are at about 600hp

but your times will increase with a better 60 ft time
 
All factors being similar except I am stock no Paxton and in 100* weather I ran your exact times and trap speed. Something ain't right bud. You are showing 5 lbs boost? A/F is dead on if accurate? Very weird? Spinning off the line shoulda gave you an even higher trap speed.
 
Add a set of caltracs that should help your 60's big time before anymore motor mods make sure she is hookin. Like tony said make sure your not blowin out the tires on 1st-2nd.
 
The tune is fir the pax right. If not your prolly just having timing pulled like a Mofo, because a N/a tune runs high advance where F/I needs timing subtracted as you boost?
 
Troy's QC SRT said:
Santeen I know you better bring more than that:aetsch:
Nah, he's good. He's just gotta get his launch technique down. And a set of Caltracs and a higher stall converter will help tremendously.
 
SANTEEN said:
Nah, he's good. He's just gotta get his launch technique down. And a set of Caltracs and a higher stall converter will help tremendously.

*I know you have to be running better times than that, I would like to think mid 12's at least..... I'm hoping to be running lows to high 12's if I can cut a good 60 with what I have now...... looking at others with mods similar to mine that is....
 
Thanks for the input. It looks like Im spining off the line I plan to talk to M&H to see if I can lower the tire presure. Also DC performance did my Paxton box the same time they did my computer box. Paxton says I must be loosing boost because I can only get 4 maybe 5 lb of boost. They say I should get 7 lb minimum. they told me to check the blow off valve to make sure its closing completely. Back to the drawing board.
 
34bud said:
Thanks for the input. It looks like Im spining off the line I plan to talk to M&H to see if I can lower the tire presure. Also DC performance did my Paxton box the same time they did my computer box. Paxton says I must be loosing boost because I can only get 4 maybe 5 lb of boost. They say I should get 7 lb minimum. they told me to check the blow off valve to make sure its closing completely. Back to the drawing board.
With your set up, which is almost identical to mine (before the TC), you should not be spinning the DR's. I've run 18 - 22 psi and had no problem hooking with your setup and it was on a crappy track. How are you warming up the tires?
 
34bud said:
Thanks for the input. It looks like Im spining off the line I plan to talk to M&H to see if I can lower the tire presure. Also DC performance did my Paxton box the same time they did my computer box. Paxton says I must be loosing boost because I can only get 4 maybe 5 lb of boost. They say I should get 7 lb minimum. they told me to check the blow off valve to make sure its closing completely. Back to the drawing board.


Even at 1lb boost you have a positive pressure in the intake which is gonna force more air in the cylinder for more power as long as fuel is matching and timing is compensated. In other words with 1 lb of boost you should have still trapped in the 110s or more, especially if spinning off the line. I have used M&H tires as well as Mickey's, Hoosiers, Good year and all seem to like around 12-13lbs whether on a car or truck. If you are starting at 18lbs of pressure at the line and you heat the tires after the burnout box, you are prolly pushing 20-22 lbs after the heat in the tires raises the pressure.;)
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Even at 1lb boost you have a positive pressure in the intake which is gonna force more air in the cylinder for more power as long as fuel is matching and timing is compensated. In other words with 1 lb of boost you should have still trapped in the 110s or more, especially if spinning off the line. I have used M&H tires as well as Mickey's, Hoosiers, Good year and all seem to like around 12-13lbs whether on a car or truck. If you are starting at 18lbs of pressure at the line and you heat the tires after the burnout box, you are prolly pushing 20-22 lbs after the heat in the tires raises the pressure.;)
I use the same exact tires that he has. No way does he need to go down to 12-13lbs. He just needs to heat them up properly. With his stock converter, he's not launching hard enough to spin properly heated DR's. Our track down here is the pit row of the NASCAR track, that they convert to an 1/8th mile track, every friday night. So, there is no prep at all and I never had a launching problem with my stock converter and the M&H DR's.
 
Hey man, just my opinion after using almost all brands out there in slicks, ET/Street, as well as every manufacturer of Drag radial except Nitto. My Bias ply slicks love 12-14lbs and my drag radials love 12-14 lbs without spinning on the rim, without rim screws and even most bias ply slicks without tubes. Hell to be honest, on street tires, you guessed it, 12-14lbs in the pit prior to heating. My best 60ft is 1.9 on street tires after using the 2 different size drag radials made for our truck, with 2.0 60ft outta those. Coulda been a fluke deal but I have made many passes at many of our GTGs here and many witnessed my swap from slicks to streets and the tire pressures.

Some hard core racers like Dom should be able to comment more on tire pressures on different tires. LiteMup, Fatjack, TNViper I'm sure all have experience as well as you and I.

Take also into consideration that I have no Caltracs and have tried with sway bar removed as well as installed. 1.9 is sticking and with a 1200 rpm stall. Until I rid this shit converter that 1.9 is all she'll muster to move 5800 off the line from a stand still. Or weight reduction.......................:hmmmm:
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top