oil pump

[faslane505]

is the oil pump rebuildable? what are my options for replacement? dont want to spend $1k on a new one. mine has been sitting for almost 3 years. what are the chances its gone bad? is there a way to tell if its bad?

Thanks guys

 

[ZCx]

dry sump system????:rock:

 

[V10SC_V12TT]

Define sitting for almost 3 years? Is this in a vehicle that hasn't run, but could if you do a complete service, and your concern is regarding the oil pump?

 

[faslane505]

Define sitting for almost 3 years? Is this in a vehicle that hasn't run, but could if you do a complete service, and your concern is regarding the oil pump?

just had the engine redone. for one reason or another, everything, including the oil pump, has been sitting for over 30 months. my question is, do you think the pump is ok? can you check our pumps to see if they are bad? can our oil pumps be rebuilt, or is my only option (besides using my old one) buying a used or new one

Thanks

 

[yellowfever#154]

Yes you can check them visually and also there will be a spec for a clearance as well. How many miles are on the pump and has there been any bad failures that could have caused large pieces to have gone through the pump?

 

[BLWNSRT]

Depends on how it was rebuilt, Ive seen some builders take petroleum jelly and pack the oil pump. When ive rebuilt engines i use a fairly thick assembly lube on almost everything cause usually I don't put them in right away. As Tyler said you can take feeler gauges and measure the clearences and also take a good look for any rust to moisture getting inside the engine.

 

[V10SC_V12TT]

I don't see any reason why it would be bad in the first place. As long as some oil or assembly lube was trapped in the timing cover when the cover was left sitting.

If your still concerned (or if the parts were left-over from a previous build or failure) you may remove the timing cover, then remove the oil pump cover and examine the inner and outer rotor.

If you don't see any evidence of scoring, pitting etc.. check all of the tolerances. You should also remove the relief valve plug and inspect the relief valve as well.

You can purchase the pump rotor set and small pump cover separately.

If these parts were from a previous engine failure, I suggest to replace the old oil cooler; they are not expensive and flushing old oil coolers is NOT a good practice.

Good Luck!

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I don't see any reason why it would be bad in the first place. As long as some oil or assembly lube was trapped in the timing cover when the cover was left sitting.

If your still concerned (or if the parts were left-over from a previous build or failure) you may remove the timing cover, then remove the oil pump cover and examine the inner and outer rotor.

If you don't see any evidence of scoring, pitting etc.. check all of the tolerances. You should also remove the relief valve plug and inspect the relief valve as well.

You can purchase the pump rotor set and small pump cover separately.

If these parts were from a previous engine failure, I suggest to replace the old oil cooler; they are not expensive and flushing old oil coolers is NOT a good practice.

Good Luck!

:rock::rock: and I would highly suggest the upgraded pump deal for sure

 

[faslane505]

Yes you can check them visually and also there will be a spec for a clearance as well. How many miles are on the pump and has there been any bad failures that could have caused large pieces to have gone through the pump?

pump has apprx. 40k miles on it. the engine and pump were running just fine when it was taken off.

Question. where would i find the specs for the clearance?

 

[faslane505]

Depends on how it was rebuilt, Ive seen some builders take petroleum jelly and pack the oil pump. When ive rebuilt engines i use a fairly thick assembly lube on almost everything cause usually I don't put them in right away. As Tyler said you can take feeler gauges and measure the clearences and also take a good look for any rust to moisture getting inside the engine.

this pump is original and has never been rebuilt. it weas taken off and has sat for 30+ months.

the engine and heads are basically all brand new.

 

[faslane505]

I don't see any reason why it would be bad in the first place. As long as some oil or assembly lube was trapped in the timing cover when the cover was left sitting.

If your still concerned (or if the parts were left-over from a previous build or failure) you may remove the timing cover, then remove the oil pump cover and examine the inner and outer rotor.

If you don't see any evidence of scoring, pitting etc.. check all of the tolerances. You should also remove the relief valve plug and inspect the relief valve as well.

You can purchase the pump rotor set and small pump cover separately.

If these parts were from a previous engine failure, I suggest to replace the old oil cooler; they are not expensive and flushing old oil coolers is NOT a good practice.

Good Luck!

who sells these parts? cost?

thanks for your help BTW

 

[faslane505]

thanks for all the replys and help so far guys

 

[V10SC_V12TT]

:rock::rock: and I would highly suggest the upgraded pump deal for sure

What he said

 

[V10SC_V12TT]

pump has apprx. 40k miles on it. the engine and pump were running just fine when it was taken off.

Question. where would i find the specs for the clearance?

What is your email address? I can send you the procedure.

 

[yellowfever#154]

I wouldnt worry about the fact that it has been sitting for 30+ months. The new one you get from Dodge probably has been sitting that long too. I would just pull it apart and check it for wear or markings. Then when reassembling it pack the pump full of lubriplate (white grease) to ensure that the pump is able to pull oil immediately. If you still are that worried about it, or if it is faulty then get the upgraded cover/pump from Tony.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

thanks for all the replys and help so far guys

shoot me a pm faslane, I got ya a couple things bo