Piston ratings

[Alex]

I have all stock internals and I was curious what everything was rated at before I need to look at getting new internals. The engine is also at 110k miles as a daily.

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[10-1=9]

With that mileage may be another 50 horsepower if you're lucky. Don't be in a hurry to open it up. Unless you have $10,000 laying around you don't know what to do with.

 

[Alex]

Okay, and also, do you think it would be safe to put a 2600+ stall on?

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[10-1=9]

Okay, and also, do you think it would be safe to put a 2600+ stall on?

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Safe=yes
Necessary=no

 

[Alex]

Okay, thanks

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[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Actually very necessary to free up robbed power and put you non your rpm power Range immediately! One of our biggest sellers for the 48re. Makes it feel 1000lbs lighter!:burnout:

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

I have all stock internals and I was curious what everything was rated at before I need to look at getting new internals. The engine is also at 110k miles as a daily.

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600 is a safe rating for our pistons with perfect tuning.

 

[Gnasty1521]

600 motor or wheel?

 

[trussman]

600 motor or wheel?

Wheel.

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[rottenronnie]

This is what happens to a stock o.e.m. Hypereutectic piston at just about ANY power level if the cylinder(s) enter into detonation from either too lean a mix, and/or (more likely) too much spark advance. The engine was lucky as the broken piece shot out of an open exhaust port at Warp 9 and got trapped by the cat convertor without any serious damage.
Sometimes a chunk like that can shoot up into an Intake manifold, rattle around and jump into another cylinder.

Replace them with a good forged unit (like the other photo) for insurance. They aren't immune to detonation either but they won't fail like the Hyper-U in the photo did.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

^^ exactly! I just had one like that but running nice A/F and timing. They're such a crappy casting I think as all cast parts, some are better than others. Less porous casting, less air bubbles, made on a Monday/Friday I don't know, but I don't like the clean fracture of that face. Not melted, discolored, no diamond mine, just a clean fracture.
Here's one I recently did. Exactly like yours and exited exhaust port. Not a single scratch in cylinder and cross hatch still showing at 104k miles

 

[Gnasty1521]

That's the stuff that scares me to do anything without 10k to take care of myself... Maybe I will just wait to add power until I have money saved...

 

[VPRPWRD]

That's the stuff that scares me to do anything without 10k to take care of myself... Maybe I will just wait to add power until I have money saved...

Scott had a great quote a while back, and this may not be quoted verbatim, but it was along the lines of don't be afraid of boost or spray, be very afraid of your tune.

With that being said, you can add what you want and if it's tuned safe it will run for a good long time without any issues.

 

[Gnasty1521]

Then a real dyno tune is in order when I do everything then. Seems like the only way to ensure a really good tune.

 

[rottenronnie]

^^ exactly! I just had one like that but running nice A/F and timing. They're such a crappy casting I think as all cast parts, some are better than others. Less porous casting, less air bubbles, made on a Monday/Friday I don't know, but I don't like the clean fracture of that face. Not melted, discolored, no diamond mine, just a clean fracture.
Here's one I recently did. Exactly like yours and exited exhaust port. Not a single scratch in cylinder and cross hatch still showing at 104k miles
View attachment 57135

As these trucks get older, change hands, etc. it can be hard to say what kind of life they've had.
Even if the A/F and timing is good NOW, what did the engine go through prior to the present?..
A bad tank of fuel, wrong heat range plug, partially plugged injector, cooling system overheating, improperly (torqued) knock sensors, really hot weather towing...? Who knows? Any or all of these conditions could have weakened a piston crown or a ring-land or 2 and it is now waiting to pop.

I've used a 2-part aerosol crack-checker on engines for a long time and I remember one 8.3 FI where piston tops were really spider-webbed and ready to go south. It was still holding together though.

We can't really do much about the past but....can't stress enough about the importance of a tune by an individual that knows how to work with Dodge JTEC controllers.

Take Care and a Prosperous 2016 to ya..

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

As these trucks get older, change hands, etc. it can be hard to say what kind of life they've had.
Even if the A/F and timing is good NOW, what did the engine go through prior to the present?..
A bad tank of fuel, wrong heat range plug, partially plugged injector, cooling system overheating, improperly (torqued) knock sensors, really hot weather towing...? Who knows? Any or all of these conditions could have weakened a piston crown or a ring-land or 2 and it is now waiting to pop.

I've used a 2-part aerosol crack-checker on engines for a long time and I remember one 8.3 FI where piston tops were really spider-webbed and ready to go south. It was still holding together though.

We can't really do much about the past but....can't stress enough about the importance of a tune by an individual that knows how to work with Dodge JTEC controllers.

Take Care and a Prosperous 2016 to ya..

I agree and I also too hade spider web piston lol. Obviously similarities here.

Cylinder and ringset was only thing holding this one together lmao.
Hope 2016 is better for us all Ronnie, thank you.

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

Scott had a great quote a while back, and this may not be quoted verbatim, but it was along the lines of don't be afraid of boost or spray, be very afraid of your tune.

With that being said, you can add what you want and if it's tuned safe it will run for a good long time without any issues.

Pretty damned verbatim, nice you remember and share. It's extremely important to datalog and verify timing and A/F as well as any timing pulled by PCM on knock sensor 05/06 engines.

 

[Psycho1122]

Then a real dyno tune is in order when I do everything then. Seems like the only way to ensure a really good tune.

Installing a wideband O2 sensor and verifying your A/F is a cheap insurance.

Cheers!