Pleas Help me with code!!

Muzzy said:
If you fried a cylinder, the plug will look either melted or physical damage. The color of the plug under normal conditions would be light brown to almost white. Other signs would include excessive blow-by (you would notice by removing the crank case vent tube from the intake), silver or metal particles in the oil, and obvious low cylinder compression (use compression test gage). A leak down test is the best option to verify cylinder health.

It sounds like it is more likely an electrical issue as stated earlier. Check your plug wire and connections. I use dielectric grease on my electrical connections. Make sure wires are clear of moving parts (steering components) or exhaust manifolds/headers. A grounded wire because it was burned through will show misfire codes.

Good Luck
-Muzzy
Click to expand...

Great post Muzzy...thanks for the excellent input...where you been?
 
Prof said:
Great post Muzzy...thanks for the excellent input...where you been?
Click to expand...

Life has been so busy, I haven't had much time to check in. I have a little more time on my hands now, so I should be around more. Good seeing everyone is still around and doing well.

Thanks Prof
-Muzzy :)
 
Hope the wifey is okay Scott. :eek:

#3 code anything with an STS smells bad to me dude. Hope it's not what everyones thinking. :mad: Any of the other STS melt down guys on here remember what codes they got when it popped??



Good luck with it. :(
 
Tried looking at the engine while it was dark. Did not see anything. Also I should say this. It ran rough for about 6 starts before it finally threw the code. I was really thinking it was something to do with the tranny as it acts like it is hard to shift from 1st to 2nd. Not slip, but hard. If I'm in the lower end of 3rd it shakes real bad. If I put it into tow/haul it gets better. I think I will just have to take it to the dealer tomorrow and see what they say. I have no clue what the hell I'm doing. Plus by the time it got dark the events of the day really started to sink in. When my wife called me I thought she was on the way to drop the kids off at school. So when I got on scene and saw no kids in the back with my wife there bleeding I thought the kids had already been transported. Luckily she had just dropped the kids off. I have pictures of the car on my phone, but I don't know how to get them off. Well I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the support!!!!

Smoke
 
Glad to hear the wife is okay and hope you get the truck fixed bro.:)
 
Dam Scotty sorry to hear about all this. Thank God your wife was not hurt and the kids were not in the car.

Put your email address in your phone then just send the pics to your email. Thats what I do with my phone pics that I want to post.

Good luck with the truck........hopefully it will be an easy fix.

patrick
 
I went to the dealer. The computer said #3 misfired 10 starts ago. They cleared it and sent me on my way. Truck was still running very rough. I went back, grabbed a tech (not a viper tech) and drove off. CEL comes back on and truck is still running rough. He said something is causing the misfire. Could be electrical, could be fuel. He suggested I change the plug. So I bought 10 new ones and I will attempt to put them in tomorrow. I told him I was worried that the piston or other internal damage had occurred. He doubts that has happen to the lack of noise and no smoke. He said if something inside was broken I would hear it. So this is where I'm sitting right now. Any other ideas? BTW I couldn't find the Bosch plugs I was using so I went with NGK V-power 5155 FR4

EDIT: How do I change the Last plug on the drivers side? Looks like it would be tough to do.
 
Last edited:
The rear plug on the drivers side is tough but with a little universal attachment for your ratchet you can get it...

Be careful in changing plugs...two things to watch for: make sure the electrode is not longer than the one you currently have. Check with someone on the temperature range of the new plug...you don't want one that is too hot.

One other thing...I would just change the #3 plug...see if the problem goes away...then at least you know that you have found your problem...but don't continue to drive with a mismatched set of plugs...check with someone who knows about the substitute plugs you have purchased.

Good Luck...sounds like you are in the clear once you get the engine running smoothly again...we all hope so...

Roy
 
Pulled the #3 plug and it was kind of melted with no gap. Here is a picture of my #3 with the replacement plug. Truck runs much smoother now. I am worried about the heat from the #3 that caused it to melt. So trucks seems to be fixed. I will go back and change the other plugs just as a precaution. I did pull #1 and it looked fine.
DSCF0803.jpg
 
FlyingLow- I did not mention before, but your wife and kids are in my prayers. I am glad they are ok. My wife and one of my daughters was hit 2 years ago, which ended both in hospital. I know it is the worst feeling.

Just an FYI in changing plugs on aluminum heads (in case you were not already aware). Always change them when the engine is cold. Put a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs before installing them. Always start threading in the plug by hand. This greatly minimizes the risk of cross-threading the plug.

Good Luck
-Muzzy
 
FlyingLow said:
Pulled the #3 plug and it was kind of melted with no gap. Here is a picture of my #3 with the replacement plug. Truck runs much smoother now. I am worried about the heat from the #3 that caused it to melt. So trucks seems to be fixed. I will go back and change the other plugs just as a precaution. I did pull #1 and it looked fine.
Click to expand...

I just saw the pic of you plug. I does not look melted to me. It looked like it was running rich. The zero gap on the electrode is most likely the cause of your misfiring. I would be concerned how it got that way. Is there any sign of metal on metal contact with the plug? I can not tell from the picture.

-Muzzy
 
Isn't it the number three cylinder that usually bites the dust when forced induction is introduced. You said you were running it hard getting to the scene. Maybe this is a warning sign. Maybe the electrode got hot enough to close the gap. Just some thoughts.

Glad to hear that the family is alright.
 
Last edited:
Hey Smoke,

Send a PM to Phil (BigAsp) and ask him what his plugs looked like. He was running the same setup and may be able to add some insight.

Even though he is in Korea, he still drops in now and then to check on things.
 
FlyingLow said:
Pulled the #3 plug and it was kind of melted with no gap. Here is a picture of my #3 with the replacement plug. Truck runs much smoother now. I am worried about the heat from the #3 that caused it to melt. So trucks seems to be fixed. I will go back and change the other plugs just as a precaution. I did pull #1 and it looked fine.
Click to expand...

Scott,
I'm a little concerned that you say the plug appears to have suffered some heat damage on the #3 cylinder since this is the cyl that fails on the STS trucks. Does it really look melted, or is the gap just bridged? It's hard to tell in the pic.

Jeff
 
Not really melted, just lost the gap for some reason. Now I can hear the valve tap off and on a little. So I don't know what that means.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Random Media

This is the most recent picture of my truck after being freshly waxed and pampered.
TRUCK 10
motor2
DSCN0347
Back
Top