Porting Stock Throttle Body

sinus19

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Sooo i got to think...
1. I have access to a CNC Waterjet (and bunch of metal) that i used to operate at my old job.
3. Im a drafter and obviosly have access to Auto cad.
2. I have a friend of mine who works at a machining shop

Add em up and im thinking i can port my own throttle body up to a single blade. I can measure, design/draw and cut a blade with the water jet and have my budy mill out the extra material in the throttle body all for like $20...

Not that im a cheap a** but why pay 300+ for a ported throttlw body when i can get one done for a fraction of the price... What do you guys think? Can i remove the material inside the throttle and everything still be ok? Can i use the stock TB shaft?
 
Why ask if you can do it all. Try it and report back. Of course you can reuse the shaft. The jtsvp and roe tb do.
 
I am a machinist also, and I milled out my throttle body. You might want to consider how much metal you remove, because it will affect the drivability of your truck. I only milled mine out until it was perfectly straight from top to bottom. Similar to JTSVP's billet throttle body. I didn't want to go too big without getting the vehicle properly tuned and leaning it out to much. But I also wanted to see how it would react first. Once finished and reinstalled, there was a faster throttle response, and a little bit of noticeable power, but not much. My only complaint is the idle surge I get when parked, or sitting at a stop light. Put that with a loud exhaust, and sometimes it gets very annoying. It tends to hang around 1200 rpms and won't drop. So before you go all kinds of crazy I would recommend trying some small modifications first before destroying you throttle body.
 
Hi, once you have modified your throttle Body, you sometimes can not run it without resetting the settings.

I have had the same issue with my throttle body, but once i resetted the settings and adjusted the voltage of the sensor it worked all fine.

All the best

Arne
 
I am a machinist also, and I milled out my throttle body. You might want to consider how much metal you remove, because it will affect the drivability of your truck. I only milled mine out until it was perfectly straight from top to bottom. Similar to JTSVP's billet throttle body. I didn't want to go too big without getting the vehicle properly tuned and leaning it out to much. But I also wanted to see how it would react first. Once finished and reinstalled, there was a faster throttle response, and a little bit of noticeable power, but not much. My only complaint is the idle surge I get when parked, or sitting at a stop light. Put that with a loud exhaust, and sometimes it gets very annoying. It tends to hang around 1200 rpms and won't drop. So before you go all kinds of crazy I would recommend trying some small modifications first before destroying you throttle body.
Very interesting... i am also thinking about milling it out straight accross. I tend to have the same issue with the idle! but its been too cold outside and im too lazy to investigate the problem ha... ive already replaced the TB and IAC sensor.. i think i just need a tune
 
Why ask if you can do it all. Try it and report back. Of course you can reuse the shaft. The jtsvp and roe tb do.

Reason why im asking is if its actually possible to do so. I dont wanna mill out the inside come to find out that the material was there for some odd purpose and that my TB will no longer work. Just wanted know if anyone else has done and if its actually possible
 
Hi, once you have modified your throttle Body, you sometimes can not run it without resetting the settings.

I have had the same issue with my throttle body, but once i resetted the settings and adjusted the voltage of the sensor it worked all fine.

All the best

Arne

how did you adjust the voltage? Resistor?
 
If you do, make sure you have a spare just in case you have one of those "dammit!"..... moments
 
how did you adjust the voltage? Resistor?

Voltage is adjusted by the small screw on the right upper side.

Below you can read the instruction how i solved my idling and shifting problem on my QC :

How To reset the shifting and idle with an aftermarket Throttle Body:

1. Disconnect all three PCM connectors for about 10 minutes. By doing this, you are erasing the PCM adaptive memory. The PCM is located on the firewall directly above and behind the passenger side front wheel.

2. Disconnect the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the driver’s side of the throttle body. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

3. Disconnect the IAC (idle air control motor) on the air plenum located on the passenger side directly behind the air filter. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

4. With the PCM disconnected, make sure the throttle cable and throttle linkage is adjusted properly for wide-open throttle. The driver’s floor mat should be removed as it can inhibit accelerator pedal travel.

5. After wide-open throttle is verified or adjusted, reconnect the PCM, TPS and IAC connectors after 10 minutes has elapsed from the start of this procedure.

6. Turn the key to the "on" position, but DO NOT start the engine.

7. With the drivers floor mat out of the truck, slowly press the accelerator to full throttle, then repeat. By doing this, you are showing the TPS (throttle position sensor) full throttle. Without this information in the PCM, it will not correctly calculate how to make the engine run properly.

8. Turn the key off then start the truck without touching the accelerator.

9. Let the engine idle for approximately 2-3 minutes.

10. After idling, drive easy, then progressively harder over the course of about 10-20 minutes.

11. The truck will drive differently during the first 20-40 miles because the PCM is learning the new adaptives.

Stolen from another forum years ago and it worked on my and other trucks !
 
dotn cnc the oem throttle body, it must be done by hand, only blend in the front of the throttle body, don't touch the blade area, sharpen the front section down to a pin and blend n the bottom, takes some time and you may cut thru, you will gain about 7 hp,and some throttle response,and to do it correctly takes about 6 hours total grinding blending smoothing
 
Voltage is adjusted by the small screw on the right upper side.

Below you can read the instruction how i solved my idling and shifting problem on my QC :

How To reset the shifting and idle with an aftermarket Throttle Body:

1. Disconnect all three PCM connectors for about 10 minutes. By doing this, you are erasing the PCM adaptive memory. The PCM is located on the firewall directly above and behind the passenger side front wheel.

2. Disconnect the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the driver’s side of the throttle body. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

3. Disconnect the IAC (idle air control motor) on the air plenum located on the passenger side directly behind the air filter. Ensure all wire connections are correct.

4. With the PCM disconnected, make sure the throttle cable and throttle linkage is adjusted properly for wide-open throttle. The driver’s floor mat should be removed as it can inhibit accelerator pedal travel.

5. After wide-open throttle is verified or adjusted, reconnect the PCM, TPS and IAC connectors after 10 minutes has elapsed from the start of this procedure.

6. Turn the key to the "on" position, but DO NOT start the engine.

7. With the drivers floor mat out of the truck, slowly press the accelerator to full throttle, then repeat. By doing this, you are showing the TPS (throttle position sensor) full throttle. Without this information in the PCM, it will not correctly calculate how to make the engine run properly.

8. Turn the key off then start the truck without touching the accelerator.

9. Let the engine idle for approximately 2-3 minutes.

10. After idling, drive easy, then progressively harder over the course of about 10-20 minutes.

11. The truck will drive differently during the first 20-40 miles because the PCM is learning the new adaptives.

Stolen from another forum years ago and it worked on my and other trucks !
Awsome! thank you so much for the how-to. I will give it a try.
If you do, make sure you have a spare just in case you have one of those "dammit!"..... moments

I dont have another one lol... I might be contacting some of you for an extra one if i reach that point ha.

dotn cnc the oem throttle body, it must be done by hand, only blend in the front of the throttle body, don't touch the blade area, sharpen the front section down to a pin and blend n the bottom, takes some time and you may cut thru, you will gain about 7 hp,and some throttle response,and to do it correctly takes about 6 hours total grinding blending smoothing

gotta do it by hand ay...alright then i can do that. Just another excuse to go by some more tools :drool:... thanks for the tips :)
 
Awsome! thank you so much for the how-to. I will give it a try.


I dont have another one lol... I might be contacting some of you for an extra one if i reach that point ha.



gotta do it by hand ay...alright then i can do that. Just another excuse to go by some more tools :drool:... thanks for the tips :)

yessir sharpen up the front, and blend in the humps, but leave the bores alone, those when we did them, acted and performance such as stock,, with impressive results, and gained nice throttle response
but take your time, blend everything in well, be careful on the bottom side, you may cut thru, if so you can epoxy it up and be just fine
 
you can still cnc it, all you have to do is remove all the guts, put it in the cmc, indicate each bore, and take that diameter and bore it out until you reach the top/front diameter of the throttle body bore. I didn't machine mine any larger than the top diameter, I just made the same throughout. If you machine it right, you shouldn't have any burrs what so ever. clean it up, put it back together and no hand polishing work. A good machinist will know what needs to be done.
 
Hmm... well im gonna ask my budy and see if he can actually make it work... if not then ill take out the dremmel.
 
Arska2, thanks for the info in your post #9. I have read in other posts that while doing this the battery also needs to be disconnected. Your thoughts on this.
 

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