Nice burn out pic. also.:rock:
Carlwalski said:Not sure I follow bud? I always do burnouts in 2nd.
Oh, OK, I see. Yup, like most I always start in 2nd gear for a burnout. There won't be much of a pause if you stay in one spot to start with until it changes to 2nd. Only takes it 3,000rpm or so (few seconds) in one spot before it changes itself into 2nd gear, like most autos; worked or stock.Yellow venom said:you started out in 2nd ?,so no shift,just that it was a solid line of rubber no pause,and you mentioned that it shifted really quick,so I was woundering if you started out in first and shifted into second while doing the burnout.
Shucks, thank you Sir.BIG NANA said:Holy Crap!!! This is the coolest truck EVER!!!!
Carlwalski said:Thanks guys, much appreciated.
The paddle shifters are Mercedes AMG S63 Paddle shifters, which they call Switches a.k.a "Rocker Switches". I'm still not sure why they call them that but there yah go LOL. They are Mercedes Part # 221-267-00-46 and are very pricey but IMO, well worth it. They are neat and tidy, high quality, heavy for better feel and the function is precise and instant. I painted my as the silver they come in was too much of a contrast against The Batram's black interior. I painted them medium grey or shadow to make them fit better. I wanted them to stand out, but not too much lol. Remember, there is nothing much to them, all paddles are, are fancy buttons, it's that simple. You can use what ever you like to change gears, all they are doing are sending electric signals to the brains of the transmission.
The function depends on the driving style and transmission under it. Most if not all modern heavy duty transmissions suitable for our trucks that are electronically shifted don't have engine braking when shifted electronically as the internals that do the engine braking aren't activated, only when you use the actual mechanical floor shifter. The newer 6-speed autos do but you lose out on their strength. So in that sense there is no engine braking, a tad in 3rd but other wise it freewheels. It's more of a gimmick to be honest but it does come in handy, like exhaust cuts outs, they are there when I need them. I use them around 10-15% of my driving. Mostly when I want to over take, tap down 2 gears and tap up again, etc. Like anything, a little practise and timing and you can get it working really well, rev matching etc. You basically tap down, rev, catch the truck with the gas again and brake when shifting down into a corner.
I also use them when I want to manually shift up the gears off the mark, they are perfect for this. No hands off the wheel and instant shifts and I mean instant tire chirping neck snapping shifts lol. They would be good for the track too, coming in from a long straight in 4th, bang down 2 cogs to 2nd while under heavy braking and you get no rear wheel lock up, rev match once and you're set prior to the apex in the correct gear. For the street though, for all my hardcore 0-60mph (etc) driving, I am really enjoying letting the truck do the shifting, I can't beat precise 5,800rpm shifts each and every time. When I shift I tend to use the Hurst floor shifter, that way I get full engine braking. My transmission is a Hybrid, it works full manual when shifted otherwise it will shifter automatically, perfect. In case anyone is wondering, the Compushift control module (yet to be mounted) is what I use for my gear indicator. When it's in normal mode it'll show either 1, 2, 3 or 4. As soon as I hit the paddles, it'll change to S1, S2, S3 or S4 (S = Sequential). Any questions, just ask, here to help the brethren if or when I can.
Cheers,
Carl
Another idea I had was to use the cruise control switches. This may suit those who don't want to spend $150+ on paddles. It will work but you will lose the cruise control, however, it is easy to buy new OEM cruise control buttons ($30 for both or something like that, see Sean @ Roe) and you can mount them elsewhere, if you really want them. I should mention that in order to use the paddle shifters I have, I had to move the horn elsewhere so we could use that wire, to be safe with the clock spring and all. The horn is on the right hand side below the A/C vents, it's the one on the right in the first few photos I posted with the new console. The one on the left is my smokescreen button. This system will work but to me using your thumbs or palm to shift isn't as good as the natural feel of pulling it back from behind the wheel, but, just an idea I'll throw out for you guys. Once again, all this info will be on my website before long, haven't had time yet.
Hey Tony, nah, not yet brother, too busy enjoying it, playing with other toys, surfing and boozing hard lol. Seat of the pants has DEFINITELY increased performance, chirps gears HARD through every gear with only 50% shift pressure on the Compushift. My 0-60mph has also dropped by a good .5-1 full second plus, all in the launch and first & second gear shifts. I thought I can drive a stick well, still do, but after this, man, it's the shit!!! No comparison. On paper is should be a high 11 low 12 second truck but yeah, no paper work to back that up yet. Can't wait to line up a local RC T56 and blow the doors off it....... Doing the 4L80E conversion to this truck was easily the best mod I have done to this or any of my vehicles. It's a totally new animal and has everything I wanted in a truck. Performance, cruise factor, ease in traffic and still potent and fun to drive with it's manual valve body style shifts on demand (not to mention the paddles), I LOVE IT.JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:Carl since you were one of the first to do an auto in an RC:rock:
have you ever checked 1/4 mile times by chance?
Shucks, thank you Sir.unionmanofsteel said:This is one of the baddest modded trucks I ever seen nice work my friend