Running Rough

Piston maybe fine but hows that rod bearing look? Id pull the pan and have a look. If piston hit valve you could of smashed rod bearing. Id check clearances of that rod bearing and couple others to compare. Id hate to see you get it all back together and sping a rod bearing....
 
Piston & seals, Rod & bearings will be replaced, not chancing it! Just trying to figure out my options at this point.

rare03srt10 said:
Piston maybe fine but hows that rod bearing look? Id pull the pan and have a look. If piston hit valve you could of smashed rod bearing. Id check clearances of that rod bearing and couple others to compare. Id hate to see you get it all back together and sping a rod bearing....
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rare03srt10 said:
Good. I mean your already balls deep in the project might as well freshen up the whole motor lol
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It all boils down to dollars and cents! Keep in mind these things cost twice what you plan and twice as long
 
I suggest changing out the valve seats. These motors have been know to drop them. I'm speaking from personal experience when my motor dropped a few after I had the motor built. I later found out that these heads are prone to dropping seats. You'll spend more up front, but at least you wont need to pull the heads off again because of a dropped seat. IMHO
 
I'm getting a little nervous seeing and reading all of this. I've had a cylinder 4 misfire for a while now and changing the plugs didn't do any good. However, the CEL only comes on here and there. I'm assuming that the light would just come on and stay on right? Or wrong? I was going to just change the plugs and see if that does the trick, but now I'm not so sure. These engines are noisy to begin with but I'm starting to wonder if I may have a broken valve spring also...There's only one way to find out. I'll be pulling the valve cover Friday when I get home from a little vacation...but what is the general opinion on my issue? And I do get a lot of backfire...I don't know if that's usual or not. I'm lost...
 
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Backfiring on decel is normal ,noise from the valve train is normal. Change the plugs first then the plug wires .might have a bad wire.
 
Thats what i thought i already changed the spark plugs to champion platinums so wires are next any reccommendations ?
 
VENOMOUS1 said:
Pull Champion Platinums and throw in trash. Get copper 1.39 Champion RC12 and be done. Factory plug is great.:D
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AGREED!!! I tried NGK plugs since im a firm believer in them and these trucks just seem to love STOCK OEM CHAMPION cheap 1 dollar plugs the best
 
Harbor Freight baby, 2000lbs!
2012-08-19_13-25-36_880.jpg
 
looks nice:rock:

general consence is to bulid our engines on a flat surface
 
Been working that OT...I foresee Strikers in my near future!
 
Just as a little update, I pulled the intake manifold and the valve covers yesterday. I checked the valve springs (as recommended) and they're all still in tact luckily. So the tune-up is getting done as soon as the parts come in. Hopefully this does the trick. OEM wires and stock plugs are going in with a .035 gap. Hopefully the problem will be solved and I don't have a bad coil pack because I really don't want to pull this thing apart again! Not much time left in the Buffalo, NY driving season so I want it back on the road asap! Thanks for all of the advice guys.
 
If your going to have the intake off already don't leave the oe coil packs, replace them with JTSVP's, not worth having to do it all over again if its a pack. A lot of extra labor there. Good to hear the springs are OK.....
 
I purchased the coils and wires from JTSVP about an hour ago. Looking forward to getting all of the parts and getting this truck back on the road. Thanks for all the help on here.
 
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