Something is draining my battery

texasfinest

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So long story short, the battery in my truck hasn't been holding a charge. I have taken the truck back to the dealership 4 times I think since I got it in september. The first battery only had 675 cca and I thought that was the problem because the truck only seemed to die when it was cold. The dealership put a battery with 750 cca in a few weeks ago and it has been working great. Two days ago it died again and it was pretty good weather. The alternator has been tested and is working properly. Is it looking like there is a short somewhere? Or is there something yall know of that could be draining the battery? Thanks for any help in advance
 
bout the only way to check is to put a multimeter between the neg. battery post & neg. battery cable, cable disconnected, put the meter on DC volts & start pullin fuses.

if the showin volt draw goes to next to zero, that will be the circuit havin the prob.

its nice the fuse box & batt. is close together
 
bout the only way to check is to put a multimeter between the neg. battery post & neg. battery cable, cable disconnected, put the meter on DC volts & start pullin fuses.

if the showin volt draw goes to next to zero, that will be the circuit havin the prob.

its nice the fuse box & batt. is close together

Will that work? I have always been taught that the meter needs to have amperage because you really need to be taking an amperage reading, not voltage. :dontknow:
 
Will that work? I have always been taught that the meter needs to have amperage because you really need to be taking an amperage reading, not voltage. :dontknow:

its the way i was taught & has done well by me in the last 30ish years

either way should work. a draw is a draw.

it should be pullin amps & volts
 
It's amps that drains. You want to test how many amps it is drawing. Most newer cars will always have a small draw, but if it is under .25 amp consistant, your batt will be fine. Over .25 will drain the batt in a day, maybe 2 if it is a good batt.
 
any electrical work done lately? maybe a lineloc or something like that?
 
Thanks for the info. Looks like I will be looking for multimeter in a day or two. There has been no electrical work done to it since I had it.
 
Thanks for the info.:rock::rock::rock: Looks like I will be looking for multimeter in a day or two.:rock::rock::rock: There has been no electrical work done to it since I had it.

ya don't need no high end/high dollar Fluke meter to help ya get it figured out.

unless ya can find one in a pawn shop or the likes

just one that will have the 2 features ya need most, volts & amps, :rock:

becareful with the air bag circuits
 


Here is a pic of the test ZCX is talking about.

bout the only way to check is to put a multimeter between the neg. battery post & neg. battery cable, cable disconnected, put the meter on DC volts & start pullin fuses.

if the showin volt draw goes to next to zero, that will be the circuit havin the prob.

its nice the fuse box & batt. is close together
 
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WTF???
 
Keep us posted, texasfinest. Those electrical gremlins can be difficult to trace sometimes
 
Yea, thats what I hear. I need to learn quick because Im gonna be gone for most of january doing training and I want this problem to be fixed before I leave.
 
Quick question… Does anybody else's door always have a dinging noise when yall open it? When I turn off my truck and open the door it always has a dinging noise. Always have thought it was normal. No lights are left on and everything to my knowledge is turned off.
 
Thanks. Mine dings when my keys are out of the ignition and I open the door. The light switch is off. Next question is does anybody's odometer stay lit up when the truck is off or does it stay on? Mine stays on when the truck is off.
 
My door doesn't ding no matter what, hasn't for a long time. And I don't think my odometer stays lit up at all, gotta at least turn the key to see it. You may be tracing your issue(s)!
 

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