Stroker????

pm.racing

New Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 10, 2010
Messages
124
Reaction score
0
I havnt heard much about stroking the big Viper Motor?? Am I just not finding the threads or is it something that is not done with the Vipers? Do they not make stroker kits?? I'm just curious because I stroke my Mustangs and a little nitrous and I'm good to go...:D
 
Last edited:
Im not 100% sure but I think the last time I was talking to chuck from tators he had said that there was a 510, 522 and possibly 540. Also I remember there was a posting a while back about this and the gains of a stroker if you are going to stick with n/a aren't as beneficial as doing a cam head package. Please correct me if I am wrong


and heres the old post
http://www.vtcoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10259
 
Thats suprising, I figured as big as the heads are they would flow pretty decent for a stroker upgrade... Usually if ya have the heads off on a rebuild is the perfect time to have them ported... Seems like with the price of a build its better to do a ROE Superchager and hope the bottom end stays together......See thats my main worry everyone here seems iffy on the bottom end so I was curious what to start saving for first, the Supercharger or the Stroker build...
 
Last edited:
stroking the viper really has no advantages, it actually will put the rods at a worse angle than they allready are and it puts more stress on the allready brittle oem crank
you can gain some torque by going to a stroker, but not much hp
nto really worth the money you spend to stroke it , it only strokes your own ego to say you got one;)
 
K thanks Stinker :) Ive always been big into strokers...but this is a new and expensive game lol.. I keep getting nut shot every time I come up with an idea lol...Stroker fail, ROE I need to forg the engine which is a rebuild....Then I'm told my trans will die...
Whats the safest build I can acomplish and still not have to break into the engine or trans... I want as much power as I can get but I still want the safety barrier and if it breaks then I can say well it just happend it wasnt because I buried it by being a dumbass...:)
 
you can go a roe or a paxton and be safe for a good long time, the key is to go and get a safe dyno tune, and dont chase the hp bug, make what you make and be happy with it till you can afford to break inside, but you can go with a roe, a shift kit, a converter , headers, and honestly make really good hp, santeen is doing really well, and not pushing the envelope,
the key to the tranny is to keep the fluid changed and the bands adjusted every ten to fiften thousand miles, and change the governor solonoid ever so often buddy , and both will last a good long time

where folks start getting into trouble is chasin the bug;)
 
Great, Thanks again.... Yea its between me and the wife, we both have race cars and our personal cars are both Srt's so its hard not to get into the HP bug.. I just want the truck to be very fun but reliable...The two Mustangs can come out when I need to put the smack down...lol I just see all the other guys and get a woody at what there doing......:):):):)
But the ole payroll check can only support so much lmao.....
 
ha ha just continue to be smart about your mod selection and always consult with the forums and everything will be ok bud! We all want more but coin always get in the way.....
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
you can go a roe or a paxton and be safe for a good long time, the key is to go and get a safe dyno tune, and dont chase the hp bug, make what you make and be happy with it till you can afford to break inside, but you can go with a roe, a shift kit, a converter , headers, and honestly make really good hp, santeen is doing really well, and not pushing the envelope,the key to the tranny is to keep the fluid changed and the bands adjusted every ten to fiften thousand miles, and change the governor solonoid ever so often buddy , and both will last a good long time

where folks start getting into trouble is chasin the bug;)
For now. ;) Like Stinker said, Paxton or a ROE and keep the tune safe. And I cant stress enough, the improvement that a torque convertor will give ya. And again, as Tony said, keep the bands adjsuted. Do them yourself, this way you know they're done.
 
Do a search on RottenRonnie and his N/A build with the Striker heads. He still has _stock_ OEM exhaust manifolds and it puts down 577rwhp/600+rwtq.

This is with a STOCK bottom end.

I have built my share of late model Mustangs, and stroking is a good plan... you can get good gains without having a really poor rod-ratio, or ring lands up in the piston pin issues.

I've also done at least 4 forced induction builds with Fords.

This appears to be a different animal. The FI route still works, but the bottom end is a time-bomb. Like Stinker said... be happy with the power you make with a very conservative tune. BUT... it also appears that typical Head/Cam swap on these things makes significantly more power than what you and I might be used to with a Ford smallblock. Basically 130rwhp and rwtq from just heads/cam. That's pretty stout. No fuel upgrades needed, either since the BSFC is significantly lower in this N/A build than a FI build.

This is going to be the route I go I believe.

It's not cheap (or as cheap as installing a Paxton or Roe), but from the research I've done it appears more reliable.
 
Only worth it if you take the motor apart. Underground racing strokes their motors and they put down big numbers. If you have the crank out its not much $$$
 
nitrous

is nitrous not an option! i ran some this weekend with great results!! is it to dangerous to continue to use?
 
Hucksrt10 said:
is nitrous not an option! i ran some this weekend with great results!! is it to dangerous to continue to use?

Did you run it at the track? If so, I'd like to know your times.

I am probably one of the VERY few on here who think nitrous in moderation is just fine. I have not run it on either of the SRT-10s I've owned, however. But I have run it on OEM engines that did not have forged pistons from the factory, and I have never had an issue.

I bet you are going to have no issues for a long, long time if you keep it at 100hp shot. If you are juicing every day then you'll get more wear, more quickly. But for the track only, or just an occasional run on the street, I think it is a great, safe, bang for the buck. And when it is "off", there is absolutely no more wear and tear at all.

There are several who have (and are currently) run nitrous for awhile. Maybe they will speak up.
 
I always, ran a minimun of a 150 Shot and up to a 350 shot on the Mustangs...I've never had a nitrous backfire or any problems....But It seems like a good idea to do a heads, cam and 125 shot and have a screamer.....I still want a good torque converter though..... On a stock car a converter really brings it to life..
But my only question is how much does the head job run and who does them??
 
pm.racing said:
I always, ran a minimun of a 150 Shot and up to a 350 shot on the Mustangs...I've never had a nitrous backfire or any problems....But It seems like a good idea to do a heads, cam and 125 shot and have a screamer.....I still want a good torque converter though..... On a stock car a converter really brings it to life..
But my only question is how much does the head job run and who does them??


A fella by the name of Greg Good is said to be one of the best Viper head porters around... Tony has a guy that is supposed to do a good job porting heads as well

Greg's email is [email protected]

and you can just PM Tony and see whats up with his guy....

If your going to do heads you should get a nice cam in there as well.....
 
I'm most likely going to go that way....porting out the heads another cam and maybe a Lil juice lol would I run into problems with the bottom end stock? Spraying 100-150 shot ??
 
Tito#14SRT said:
I'm most likely going to go that way....porting out the heads another cam and maybe a Lil juice lol would I run into problems with the bottom end stock? Spraying 100-150 shot ??

FatJack runs a 150 shot. He launches at 5K rpm with the bottle flowing....His engine is stock inside with about 50K miles....He has no issues with internal failure so maybe the bottle is safe as long as you dont go overboard...:dontknow:
 
I''d say a Quad Cab would be fine with a 100 shot and a good tune, for years.
A Reg Cab could do a 150 shot with a good tune (and with a new clutch) for years as well..

My 2 cents...
 
Last edited:
rottenronnie said:
I''d say a Quad Cab would be fine with a 100 shot and a good tune for years.
A Reg Cab could do a 150 shot with a good tune (and with a new clutch) for years as well..

My 2 cents...

Amen Ronnie, don't be afraid of the nitrous, be afriad of your tune! Make sure timing is retarded during N20 runs a few degrees throughout the rpm range. Detonation from too much spark advance and crappy ring lands and hyperuetectic picsons are our enemy!!;)
 

Latest posts

Support Us

Become A Supporting Member Today!

Click Here For Details

Back
Top