Tranny getting rebuilt again for the 4th time...

Ok i've heard of HTS and defiently know about suncoast....That's who was going to build my tranny in my late truck.......How much are we looking at to get a rebuild by Dusty? Do i pull my tranny and send it off to him or am i buying a full out tranny and send mine back in as a core? I can pull a tranny myself...I'm sure the srt isn't much different from a hemi......
 
You can get a basic heavy duty rebuild for less than $2500. Then, you can add additional items ala carte. You need to talk to him to work out the details. You can just pull the tranny and send it to him, or you can buy the parts and do it yourself. There's quite a bit to it though. You might just give him a call.
 
Thanks WOT for very good information you are providing....

Dusty knows his stuff and I wish he was local...Not taking away from Tim cause he is very reputable in the Cummins world...

Hopefully the truck will be done by tomorrow...
 
WOT

You really put some good info out there in this thread. Great explanations on the woes of this trans. This has been discussed so many times but you really did a great job describing the problems and what to fix.

I too have had my share of trans problems and dealt with Dusty. He is definitely a good guy and very knowledgeable.
 
WOT great info brother! That 4.2 lever is great, had it in the red truck and no BS it was like a whole new truck... (not bashing) but my red truck was almost more fun than the silver truck with the roe... The transmission mods that Dusty sold me for 50 bucks are ALMOST worth more to me than a 3000 supercharger.... Almost. :)

Dusty can get you a tranny for around 3 g's +/- thats shipped, and you send him your core. Do a search there are alot of tweaks he's done to the tranny for the 10 over the cummins.
 
WOT Excellent,excellent info!! I am also another HTS customer,I have Dusty's parts in my tranny also,Dusty is a very knowledgeable guy and more then willing to talk and deal with.
 
Dusty it i! Is the 3k tranny needed or jsut the "parts" that you speak of?
 
05_ram_1500 said:
Dusty it i! Is the 3k tranny needed or jsut the "parts" that you speak of?
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It depends on what shape your tranny is in. if everything is fine, you could just do a valve body, billet 2nd gear accumulator, and some spring upgrades. If, when you drop the pan there is a bunch of crap in the bottom, your tranny likely needs a rebuild. If you are going with a total rebuild, then you can add the 4.2 lever and the other internal upgrade parts.
 
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WOT said:
It depends on what shape your tranny is in. if everything is fine, you could just do a valve body and some spring upgrades. If, when you drop the pan there is a bunch of crap in the bottom, your tranny likely needs a rebuild. If you are going with a total rebuild, then you can add the internal upgrade parts.
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Granted I don't know how the tranny feels now or how hard it shifts currently but i know i do want it to shift hard......I know the VB will increase shift firmness and the springs will help shift into 3rd faster but will i still ahve to adjust the things you previously mentioned? Are the adjustments easy? As in just crawl under and check tension or something of that nature? What needs to be upgraded to not have to make those adjustments? Do you know of a writeup that shows what all needs to be adjusted and how to do it.....I'm a helicopter Mechanic so i'll pretty much work on anything! Just need directions and pics always help!
 
05_ram_1500 said:
Granted I don't know how the tranny feels now or how hard it shifts currently but i know i do want it to shift hard......I know the VB will increase shift firmness and the springs will help shift into 3rd faster but will i still ahve to adjust the things you previously mentioned? Are the adjustments easy? As in just crawl under and check tension or something of that nature? What needs to be upgraded to not have to make those adjustments? Do you know of a writeup that shows what all needs to be adjusted and how to do it.....I'm a helicopter Mechanic so i'll pretty much work on anything! Just need directions and pics always help!
Click to expand...

There is no upgrade so that adjustments don't have to be made -- it's part of the scheduled maintenance. There are 3 adjustments that need to be made when doing the normal tranny service. They are: set the throttle valve (TV) cable, adjust the front (2nd gear) band, and adjust the rear band. You can set the TV cable and adjust the front band without dropping the tranny pan. You have to drop the pan to adjust the rear band.

Here are the instructions from the Service Manual.

Throttle Valve Cable
A correctly adjusted throttle valve cable (1) will cause the throttle lever on the transmission to move simultaneously with the throttle body lever (3) from the idle position. Proper adjustment will allow simultaneous movement without causing the transmission throttle lever to either move ahead of, or lag behind the lever on the throttle body.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
1. Turn ignition switch to OFF position.
2. Remove air cleaner if necessary.
3. Disconnect cable end (3) from attachment stud on throttle lever (1).
Carefully slide cable off stud. Do not pry or pull cable off.
4. Verify that transmission throttle lever is in fully closed position. Then be sure lever on throttle body is at curb idle position.
5. Pry the T.V. cable lock (A) into the UP position. This will unlock the cable and allow for readjustment.
6. Apply just enough tension on the T.V. cable (B) to remove any slack in the cable.
Pulling too tight will cause the T.V. lever on the transmission to move out of its idle position, which will result in an incorrect T.V. cable adjustment.
Slide the sheath of the T.V. cable (D) back and forth until the centerlines of the T.V. cable end (B) and the throttle bell crank lever (C) are aligned within one millimeter (1mm).
7. While holding the T.V. cable in the set position push the T.V. cable lock (A) into the down position. This will lock the present T.V. cable adjustment.
NOTE: Be sure that as the cable is pulled forward and centered on the throttle lever stud, the cable housing moves smoothly with the cable. Due to the angle at which the cable housing enters the spring housing, the cable housing may bind slightly and create an incorrect adjustment.
8. Reconnect the T.V. cable (B) to the throttle bellcrank lever (C).
9. Check cable adjustment. Verify transmission throttle lever and lever on throttle body move simultaneously.

Front Band Adjustment
The front (kickdown) band adjusting screw (2) islocated on the left side of the transmission case abovethe manual valve and throttle valve levers.
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut. Then backlocknut (1) off 3-5 turns. Be sure adjusting screwturns freely in case. Apply lubricant to screwthreads if necessary.
3. Tighten band adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.)torque with an appropriate Torx™ socket.
4. Back off front band adjusting screw 1-3/4 turns, fordiesel vehicles, or 1-1/2 turns, for V-10 vehicles.
5. Hold adjuster screw in position and tighten locknut to 41 N·m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
6. Lower vehicle.

Rear Band
The transmission oil pan must be removed for access to the rear band adjusting screw (1).
1. Raise vehicle.
2. Remove transmission oil pan and drain fluid.
3. Loosen band adjusting screw locknut 5-6 turns. Be sure adjusting screw turns freely in lever.
4. Tighten adjusting screw to 8 N·m (72 in. lbs.) torque.
5. Back off adjusting screw 3 turns.
6. Hold adjusting screw in place and tighten locknut to 34 N·m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
7. Position new gasket on oil pan and install pan on transmission. Tighten pan bolts to 17 N·m (13 ft. lbs.) torque.
8. Lower vehicle and refill transmission with MoparT ATF +4, Automatic Transmission fluid.
 
WOT you are the F'ing man!! I think i'll be calling Dusty getting the parts recommended and ensuring everything is adjusted correctly on my first service like you said.....Shit I don't even own the truck yet!!
 
bigike said:
They didn't talk you into a billet input did they?!?!
Click to expand...
He said I didnt need it, and for me to send it back after a year so he could freshen it up, and if I wanted it then he would put it in for me.
 
Ok...A update...

The truck was towed to TRE Diesel yesterday, the tranny was dropped and open in my presence.

He tore the tranny down to the last bolt and show me every everything that was done wrong and damaged. I wish I had my camcorder. Here is what I remember and I willing to bet that I am forgetting most of it. Also I am not tranny savvy, so pardon the incorrect lingo...

1. When the original tranny builder installed the custom torque converter he modify the flex plate with a dremel to make it line up. The uneven enlarged holes don't provide a even flushed surface for the converter bolts to hold on.

2. The first gear was missing a reaction ring which was substituted with a couple of what seem like to me worn clutches stacked to together.

3. Due to the above the first gear piston welded itself and had to be forcefully removed.

4. Due to the above my billet input shaft was scorned and I chose to replace it.

5. The original build had a bunch of high end parts, billet everything, it essentially was turn back to stock by the second builder.

6. They left the factory 5 apply lever.

7. Reverse and the Overdrive assembly was completely stock and didn't seemed to be touched since the factory.


He projects to be done and return the truck back to me today. It has 1000 miles break in period at which I am bringing it back and we will do a fluid change check the rebuild.
 
Great...

8. The new valve body that was suppose to be installed about a year ago never made it to the truck...They installed part of a Transgo Kit and incorrectly...
 
jrgnd said:
Great...

8. The new valve body that was suppose to be installed about a year ago never made it to the truck...They installed part of a Transgo Kit and incorrectly...
Click to expand...
Never knew hennessey was building transmissions too :mad:
 
Truck is done...I am going to pick it up...
 
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