Trans Question

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ramsrt711

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I went to track this weekend and trying out newly added parts. Ridgeline wheels with drag radials that I got here and GM conversion solenoid. Truck hooked better than the last at track. It shifted real good from 1st to 2nd but hesitated from 2nd to 3rd before I finished 8th mile. I would have to let off pedal for it to shift. I tried with and without tow button. When solenoid was added bands were adjusted. Would a throttle cable adjustment help since that has never been touched.
 
ramsrt711 said:
I went to track this weekend and trying out newly added parts. Ridgeline wheels with drag radials that I got here and GM conversion solenoid. Truck hooked better than the last at track. It shifted real good from 1st to 2nd but hesitated from 2nd to 3rd before I finished 8th mile. I would have to let off pedal for it to shift. I tried with and without tow button. When solenoid was added bands were adjusted. Would a throttle cable adjustment help since that has never been touched.
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MOre than likely because of the height of the tires and the computers preprogrammed shift points. The shorter diameter makes the shifts later.;)
 
It seems like it does not want to shift unless I let off gas going from 2nd to 3rd. The reprogramed computer was done about 3 years ago and it never did it until the solenoid upgrade. The solenoid definitly feels it has better take off but Im reaching the max of 2nd gear for the last 3-4 seconds of the 8th mile. If I drive normal it it shifts good. If I can get it to shift sooner that might help. I put the factory computer back on and it still hesitates around 75 mph just not as bad but it does not takeoff as good.
 
prob any trans shop, I will get you some details buddy:) it may take a bit tho, overloaded with xmas stuff at the time, is it very important it be done quickly?:)
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
prob any trans shop, I will get you some details buddy:) it may take a bit tho, overloaded with xmas stuff at the time, is it very important it be done quickly?:)
Click to expand...

The race season is over so it can wait till after xmas. I just want to see if its not a simple adjustment before I start buying more for the truck. After I get this running right Im getting converter and caltracs from you. My best at the track was 8.69. Any recommendations to run faster that will not cost arm and a leg would be apreciated.
 
you can drop the pan, and manually adjust the pressure a touch, not tooo much , jsut a tad, at the front of the valve body there is an allen head, with a spring behind it, turn it about a half turn , it wil move up the pressure a touch, increasing shift firmness, what I need to do is figure which spring in the valve body to change to , to lower the shift points jsut a touch,

one thing as a note to most, your going to go quicker in the 1/4 with the shifts at around 55-5800 rather than 6000+
 
ramsrt711 said:
When any of ya are running in the 8th mile are ya crossing in second or third gear?
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Cross the 1/8 in 2nd and the 1/4 in 3rd. :burnout:
I tried the 390s and the 325s and they did hook great, but screwed shift points all up.
THe shift points are computer controlled and NOT based on the valve body itself but the transducer, OD lockup and Pressure solonoid based on preprogrammed shift points by TPS and MPH and RPM. Valve bodies and shift kits will only adjust firmness between gear shifts and hold the gear a lil longer under normal driving.
 
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VENOMOUS1 said:
Cross the 1/8 in 2nd and the 1/4 in 3rd. :burnout:
I tried the 390s and the 325s and they did hook great, but screwed shift points all up.
THe shift points are computer controlled and NOT based on the valve body itself but the transducer, OD lockup and Pressure solonoid based on preprogrammed shift points by TPS and MPH and RPM. Valve bodies and shift kits will only adjust firmness between gear shifts and hold the gear a lil longer under normal driving.
Click to expand...

That's good info...so the only way to lower/raise shift points is through your tuner?
 
JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE said:
incorrect
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"valve body needs reprogramming, a little adjusting, you can try the cable, but not the best way to do it"

Please elaborate? The electonics of the valve body are what receive a signal from PCM on shift point based on RPM and TPS. Obviously the valve body can be modded to make shifts firmer and faster, but it doesn't control when to shift at WOT or Part Throttle. The valve body directs the fluid to make the shift happen. YOU CANNOT CHANGE PROGRAMMING OF A VALVE BODY AS IT'S NOT AN ELECRICAL COMPONENT! Adjusting the cable will not hold a WOT run gear longer or make it shift sooner. This only works on part throttle shifting where it goes into second to quick under normal driving or holds 2nd or 3rd too long. The TV cable can be adjusted to extend or quicken shifts between gears.
 
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Troy's QC SRT said:
Ahhh come on! What u want me to break something don't u! That or u want me to run slow! U know I'm gunning to be one of the fastest n/a qc's around!
Click to expand...

Get ahold of Torrie and ask him how the computer knows when to shift a gear and what it's based on. Line pressure is one thing, but programming in the PCM is another. Line pressure will still only firm up shifts or make a neck snapping shifts.
 
Actually I would have to say you are both correct yes you can electronically change the shift points through the PCM

But you can also mechanically change the shift points mechanically by changing out parts in the Valve Body. You can find proof of this in the Transgo Shift kit instructions Page 1 Step 2.

There ya have it fellows!
 
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