What's this noise?

mtltemplar

mtltemplar

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Hey, not sure if general discussion is the right place for this, or if this is even a tech discussion forum... If both are correct though, any guesses on what this sound is? Took it to Dodge and they originally said it was the belt and replaced it, and the sound went away for almost 3 days then came back slowly and in the course of the last 2-3 weeks has gotten back to as bad as it was originally. The sound took almost a week originally to get this bad, I would only notice it under load and it would go away at idle or closed throttle. Now, it sounds like this when I start the truck every morning, including when it's just idling, and unless I take it for a 10-15 minute run at 60+ it will just continue whether under load or not, idling or not. If I do get it warmed up like described above, then it goes away at idle but still occurs under load. This video was taken after a good long run at 80 on the freeway just so I could make the distinction of the sound easier to identify without it happening right off the bat in the video.

Sounds more like worn bearings or a worn pulley or something to me, much more than belt - I've had belts squeal before and this just isn't the same...

Any ideas/knowledge would be appreciated. Even if it was the belt, what is the underlying issue causing it because even with a new belt it came back in a couple days (my guess once the tension created by a new belt on the pulleys wore off from the belt warming up and breaking in). Thanks!

https://youtu.be/tqgJmHO_ick
 
sounds like belt noise to me for sure.

ya could try to spray a bit of belt dressin on it to see if it changes any.

its fairly common for the belt noise to show up on our engines. most folks go with a new belt, tensioner and idler pulleys & that has taken care of the noise.
 
Check your crank bolt asap! If it loosened up your balancer will start to wobble and cause belt noise. And it can cause major engine failure!
 
Tensioner or idler pulley. Simply remove belt and spin all pulleys and accessories and find your culprit.:D
 
Wastelands Warrior said:
Check your crank bolt asap! If it loosened up your balancer will start to wobble and cause belt noise. And it can cause major engine failure!
Click to expand...

Mine sounded like this off and on and it stopped when my balancer almost came off and was replaced. I assumed belt but it has yet to make the noise since the new balancer.
11947560_10204907148339529_5755550940782747081_n.jpg
 
trussman said:
Mine sounded like this off and on and it stopped when my balancer almost came off and was replaced. I assumed belt but it has yet to make the noise since the new balancer.
11947560_10204907148339529_5755550940782747081_n.jpg
Click to expand...

I was in the same boat! Mine came off in 2 pieces and I thank God it was caught before it came off on it's own!
 
Could always be worse....
This poor guy has no options left. It broke apart during his removal :(
Think he's gonna have to try to weld it together just to try and remove again!



 
Geezuz, man I hope mine isn't that bad. I tried taking off the belt and hand spinning all the pulleys, no noise (even tried using the belt wrapped around them and yanked to get them spinning faster, still nothing). Did notice the belt tensioner is pretty rusted internally, and its pulley stops spinning almost immediately, sprayed some aero kroil in both just cause, of course, no difference. Couldn't get to the crank bolt to check it, had to drive in to work, I'm babying it right now trying to get out of work early enough one of these days to get home and take it apart and check out the torque on it, see if it's walked forward, etc. (been reading a lot of different related posts on the forum). Assuming once I get the belt tension off the crank pulley that the crank bolt is 'loose', how does one 'hold the crank' in place on an automatic in order to torque it down? I've always dealt with manuals in the past, in fact this is my first automatic daily driver in over a decade... Pretty easy to do with a manual and a friend, not sure what the procedure is with an automatic. I imagine there's no way it won't try to turn over if I'm trying to torque to 130ft.lbs. One other question, if I go to the trouble of taking the fan shroud/fan and moving them out of the way so I can even get to that bolt, should I just go ahead and take off the crank pulley and visually inspect the balancer to make sure I don't see cracks/etc. like the pictures that everyone has posted? Or if it hasn't walked and the bolt isn't all that loose (or isn't at all) is that pretty much a worthless endeavor? My truck is an '05 not sure if it's late or early though, so who knows if the standard issue is even my real issue. :) Thanks again guys, I'll try to provide an update as soon as I know more, I'm hoping that today's the day for me to get to it...

Oh on a completely unrelated sidenote, do you guys have any recommended oil temp gauge replacement brands? Mine's had the 'stuck at 180' typical problem since I bought the truck last year, finally removed it from the truck the other day and it was still stuck after being disconnected and 'tapped', lol. Figure it's bad, not sure what to replace it with - figured I'd just replace with another oil temp gauge (as semi-useless as that is) cause I don't have the time/funding to change it out to something more useful like a wideband O2 or whatever...
 
mtltemplar said:
Geezuz, man I hope mine isn't that bad. I tried taking off the belt and hand spinning all the pulleys, no noise (even tried using the belt wrapped around them and yanked to get them spinning faster, still nothing). Did notice the belt tensioner is pretty rusted internally, and its pulley stops spinning almost immediately, sprayed some aero kroil in both just cause, of course, no difference. Couldn't get to the crank bolt to check it, had to drive in to work, I'm babying it right now trying to get out of work early enough one of these days to get home and take it apart and check out the torque on it, see if it's walked forward, etc. (been reading a lot of different related posts on the forum). Assuming once I get the belt tension off the crank pulley that the crank bolt is 'loose', how does one 'hold the crank' in place on an automatic in order to torque it down? I've always dealt with manuals in the past, in fact this is my first automatic daily driver in over a decade... Pretty easy to do with a manual and a friend, not sure what the procedure is with an automatic. I imagine there's no way it won't try to turn over if I'm trying to torque to 130ft.lbs. One other question, if I go to the trouble of taking the fan shroud/fan and moving them out of the way so I can even get to that bolt, should I just go ahead and take off the crank pulley and visually inspect the balancer to make sure I don't see cracks/etc. like the pictures that everyone has posted? Or if it hasn't walked and the bolt isn't all that loose (or isn't at all) is that pretty much a worthless endeavor? My truck is an '05 not sure if it's late or early though, so who knows if the standard issue is even my real issue. :) Thanks again guys, I'll try to provide an update as soon as I know more, I'm hoping that today's the day for me to get to it...

Oh on a completely unrelated sidenote, do you guys have any recommended oil temp gauge replacement brands? Mine's had the 'stuck at 180' typical problem since I bought the truck last year, finally removed it from the truck the other day and it was still stuck after being disconnected and 'tapped', lol. Figure it's bad, not sure what to replace it with - figured I'd just replace with another oil temp gauge (as semi-useless as that is) cause I don't have the time/funding to change it out to something more useful like a wideband O2 or whatever...
Click to expand...

I just realized from this post that the crank pulley is most likely not your issue since it was a primarily 04 problem.

I also have some new OEM oil temp gauges in my parts collection if you want one. You can email me at [email protected]
 
still worth checking the dampner bolt torque . You will have to remove the serpentine belt. then remove the lower pulley. There are 6 short bolts for this. remove the dampner bolt and inspect the dampner.Wiggle it and see if it moves . If it looks good and can see no cracks, blue loctite the threades and reinstall the bolt. torque to spec. It may slide on farther but that's ok. Try to wiggle all the pulley's, there should be No play. If it all checks out good, reassemble . With it idling, Watch for wobbling pulley's. It sounds belt related. maybe alternator Bearing or A/C clutch.
 
Last edited:
vprpwrd, email sent. :) Thanks

Ok, I'll definitely still check it out, can't hurt - just to be safe. Better a 'quick' check than a new crank... So, the question still stands, how do I backstop the crank so I can torque said bolt to 130 ft.lbs? Seems to me that an automatic can't be engaged like putting a manual in 1st or reverse and stomping on the brake... Or am I completely wrong? Like I said, I've never dealt with automatics before - 75% of my previous car work experience is from rebuilding my 91 3000GT VR4 from the ground up... Thanks!
 
Remove one sparkplug feed about 8-10" of 1/4" rope into sparkplug hole.leave a tail of rope out! Make sure rope is clean of course. The rope will not allow the piston to crest TDC. Once bolt is torqued reverse crank rotation and remove rope. Replace sparkplug.
 
Slitherbeast said:
Remove one sparkplug feed about 8-10" of 1/4" rope into sparkplug hole.leave a tail of rope out! Make sure rope is clean of course. The rope will not allow the piston to crest TDC. Once bolt is torqued reverse crank rotation and remove rope. Replace sparkplug.
Click to expand...

That beats my idea.
Remove oil cap, fill with water till running over, wait two weeks for internals to rust, tighten crank bolt.
 
Wow, I feel like I'm being trolled... ;) I realize I probably sound like a noob, and I probably am in many ways, but seriously? Rope in the cylinder? LOL
 
Slitherbeast said:
Remove one sparkplug feed about 8-10" of 1/4" rope into sparkplug hole.leave a tail of rope out! Make sure rope is clean of course. The rope will not allow the piston to crest TDC. Once bolt is torqued reverse crank rotation and remove rope. Replace sparkplug.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I've been around the block more than once. That's the first time I ever heard of that one. LOL
 
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