Wiring Question

Chewbacca

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I will hopefully be hooking up my gauges sometime soon (A/F, DPIC, Trans temp) and was wondering if anyone has used these instead of tapping into a wire.

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I don't need the dual circuit thing as we have a bunch of unused spots in the fuse panel. Is there a better version out there, or something better. Or should I just suck it up and solder everything into the existing power? Thanks!
 
I was just wondering for ease of installation. Don't want to hack up any wires if I don't need to!:chain:
 
In used the power from the oem oil pressure gauge. Thats all you need.

I just figured the least amount of soldering, the better...for me anyway. Did you add one or two more gauges, and if two, did you do them all to one spot, or did you strip away two separate spots along the oil pressure power line?
 
Another wiring question...for most of the gauges I'm gonna install, they require you to add a fuse on the wire connecting power as seen in diagram...

http://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1237-00.pdf

Do I have to match the gauge of wire on unit? Or can I just install one of these?

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I don't know if having different gauge wire will effect anything.
 
Hey Jarrett,

Just put these in this weekend. I "fanned" out the wiring on the oil temp harness to each gauge. Used same gauge wire.

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Cool, so you used the power and ground wires that go to Oil temp gauge. Did you do the dimming wire, so it dims when you turn your headlights on? Also, did you put a fuse along the power line for the A/F gauge...actually, I think maybe each gauge required that.
 
Yes, 3 wires, GND, +12V, and switched lights. The +12V (oil gauge) is fused, so the load across the other 2 are within the fuse rating.
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Is that a new oil temp gauge or do you still have a working original? Mine crapped out a while ago, don't know if I should get the OEM looking speedhut or an aftermarket...or another OEM.
 
No, stock. Mine just happens to work I guess. I would try & get a stock replacement if you can. The wiring harness for the gauge cluster dis-connects inside the pod. So it is easy to
re-wire on the bench and add the new wires.
 
I cut the 3 wires from that harness, soldered and shrink sleeved to a new wire which had extensions for the other 2 gauges.
Was easy, double check your work before you drop it in.
There is an unused access hole in the firewall above the pedals. Freekin perfect.

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Did you do something like in this little drawing I attached? Were all the power, ground, and switchable wires the same AWG for each gauge? Sorry for all the dumb questions. Just wanna get everything ready before I start working.
 

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That's how I do them. I can also get you a stock replacement oil temp gauge or Autometer minus SRT logo. Stay away from Speedbutt gauges. Worst crap I've ever used/installed. Very inaccurate!
 
Did you do something like in this little drawing I attached? Were all the power, ground, and switchable wires the same AWG for each gauge? Sorry for all the dumb questions. Just wanna get everything ready before I start working.

There ya go, perfect. I used same gauge wire also. You can prep the whole
thing on the bench and than just connect back in the truck when ready. You dont even have to disconnect the battery either. Good Luck.
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There ya go, perfect. I used same gauge wire also. You can prep the whole
thing on the bench and than just connect back in the truck when ready. You dont even have to disconnect the battery either. Good Luck.
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Do you remember what the stock gauge wire was? Was is 22? All the gauges I have to install are 22, except for the D-PIC, which is 24. Can I hook up the D-PIC directly to the same stock wires, or do I have to do something special. Or use the fuse panel?

Thanks!
 
These are low currant 12v guages. I believe the wire gauge is 22.
Using the 24 gauge is within spec because it is a smaller diameter wire.
I have the 3 gauges on the existing fused red wire.
Shouldnt be a problem with the D-Pic.
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