yellowfever#154
Full Access Member
Vman455 said:This is sort of what I wanted to hear--of the three I mentioned, this is the cheapest upgrade...
But the most work.
Vman455 said:This is sort of what I wanted to hear--of the three I mentioned, this is the cheapest upgrade...
They will help , but won't do what you want .........diminish body rollyellowfever#154 said:But the most work.Dont forget to factor in a alignment afterwards as well.
belgiumbarry said:o my god... not again..![]()
autocrossed a 10... a 10 is a TRUCK with a Viper engine... not a race car...:rock:
They race semi trucks over in englandbelgiumbarry said:o my god... not again..![]()
autocrossed a 10... a 10 is a TRUCK with a Viper engine... not a race car...:rock:
Any good spring shop can make some up for you .enforcer17 said:Stabilizing the rear is something I have been looking at as well, starting with Caltracs, Watts might be an option (I like Smokey's best as the mount to the frame and then bolt to the axle is likely the sturdiest and allows rear rear replacement with minimal issues).
But front springs are key as well, not for body roll, but for nose diving when you grenade the brakes heading into sharp turns ... had 800# front springs in my 2000 Trans AM WS6 to minimize nose dive, would assume we would need 1200# springs for this truck. Anyone already make these?
HV SRT said:I have Stinkers front springs, Justins end links and QA1 shocks ,caltracs and a 1/2 ground force lowering kit and it needs more help.I'm going to have bigger sway bars installed and a watts link.
Get the springs last , after you balance the corners and do the other mods.Vman455 said:Well, as usual you guys have given me a lot to think about...and a lot to pull out my wallet for, dammit. Tony, how much are your springs?