Crankshaft position sensor location
- Thread starter cbmcavoy
- Start date
Pass side bottom middle of the block.
04 the sensor is on the passenger side of the bellhousing opposite side as the transmission. 05-06 passenger side of the block about half the way down the length of the engine.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Unless your 6'8" it's better from underneath.
Arska2
EU Moderator
I have a problem and already asked for help and also got a reply, but would like to understand the problem solving a little better :
I have a 2004 Viper engine -> no knock sensor / crank sensor different position than 2005
I want to install it in a 2005 QC automatic SRT10.
Here is the question : will the crank position sensor which is different to 05's and not for automatic transmission be able to read and interprete the signals correctly, means will the engine run properly ?
Can someone explain where the 04 sensor "grabs" the signal and why it will work in combination with the flexplate vs. The flywheel ?
Thanks a lot for your help
Arne
I have a 2004 Viper engine -> no knock sensor / crank sensor different position than 2005
I want to install it in a 2005 QC automatic SRT10.
Here is the question : will the crank position sensor which is different to 05's and not for automatic transmission be able to read and interprete the signals correctly, means will the engine run properly ?
Can someone explain where the 04 sensor "grabs" the signal and why it will work in combination with the flexplate vs. The flywheel ?
Thanks a lot for your help
Arne
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Your flexplate will need to use a crank trigger setup like the flywheel. You should be able to simply recreate the spacing or use an old flywheel for parts.
You can also get a custom flexplate with crank trigger tabs as well from Reactor.
Otherwise extend wire, use 04 plug, and you'll have no knock sensors. PCM will recognize crank sensors the same. Hope this helps Arne
Arska2
EU Moderator
Scott, just to be 100% sure !
Option 1 : modified flexplate with crank sensor from 04 block
Option 2 : change nothing and just extend the wires and plug for 04 and good to go
.....or do i have to do a mix of both options ?
Sorry for sounding stupid but its all about the question if a lot of money has been wasted on a 04 block and it wont work together with the 05 automatic....
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
1. Lengthen wires to reach bellhousing area. Get plug for 04 crank sensor. Wiring complete! No use of factory 05 knock sensors as block provisions aren't there.
2. Modified flexplate with spacers from an 03-04 flywheel. Or an aftermarket flexplate with crank triggers welded on.
Both must be done but otherwise no prob.
shorty
Full Access Member
HA, HA, did mine from the top before VENOMOUS 1 told me it couldn't be done. Said it needed to be done from the bottom. :dontknow: At 6'5" pretty easy but ya gotta do it by feel but really pretty simple.
Final GTS
Full Access Member
DO NOT use a 2004 block in a 2005-2006 AUTOMATIC!
1. The crank position sensor was moved away from the flywheel for a reason, not the least of which was reliability. You do not want to go cutting slots in your flexplate unless you really want to experience a flexplate failure. Can you say stress riser? A flexplate is by no means a 1" thick steel flywheel. Extending the wires is the least of your worries.
2. The Knock Sensors must be utilized with an Auto trans, as they are much more likely to experience knock than a manual version on a regular basis. Adding knock sensor mounts is a HUGE pain, and you never want to use "added" mounts on a non-programmable knock system. The harmonics WILL differ, and the OE ECU will not be able to correctly hear knock frequencies.
3. The block/bell housing bolt pattern differs. Just one more headache in this.
Spend the money and find an Automatic block, or at least a 05-06 in general.
1. The crank position sensor was moved away from the flywheel for a reason, not the least of which was reliability. You do not want to go cutting slots in your flexplate unless you really want to experience a flexplate failure. Can you say stress riser? A flexplate is by no means a 1" thick steel flywheel. Extending the wires is the least of your worries.
2. The Knock Sensors must be utilized with an Auto trans, as they are much more likely to experience knock than a manual version on a regular basis. Adding knock sensor mounts is a HUGE pain, and you never want to use "added" mounts on a non-programmable knock system. The harmonics WILL differ, and the OE ECU will not be able to correctly hear knock frequencies.
3. The block/bell housing bolt pattern differs. Just one more headache in this.
Spend the money and find an Automatic block, or at least a 05-06 in general.
bmxam962
Full Access Member
Knock sensor is for motor what does that have to do with tranny? Unless your trying to say auto will load the motor more than the manual.
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
Just saying....
1. You don't cut slots in flexplate, metal block like spacers are used to pulse crank sensor just like all manual flywheels have. Olan at Reactor has made us a few. 04 crank sensors have given us no issues in the past compared to 05/06. Both have been quite reliable. Is truck guys tend to put the miles on these engines
2. Don't agree with necessity to run knock sensors unless a highly tuned engine. Even then reading plugs/A/F is key, not relying on knock sensors to pull timing.
3.no headache at all on bolt pattern, it's not that different and I proved with my Quad Cab T56 conversions and my own personal that everyone said couldn't be done. 70k miles later I still smile each shift
Mileage increased from 12.5-13 hwy to 18-19.5, lost weight, faster, etc. Also had a guy or two put our 48re behind a manual block with no issues.
Done turbo 400s and 4l80s as well. Of course with adapter plate
No adapter plate for 48re to T56 blocks needed
VENOMOUS1 RACING
Has Left the Room - Banned from VTCOA!
It will produce more load but like I posted that is affected by tuning. Knock sensors aren't saviors, tuning is
Hence why QC tuning is lazy factory A/F and plug reading is crucial regardless of stock or heavily modified, boosted etc.
hey Dan:rofl:
:rofl:
Final GTS
Full Access Member
Just saying....
1. You don't cut slots in flexplate, metal block like spacers are used to pulse crank sensor just like all manual flywheels have. Olan at Reactor has made us a few. 04 crank sensors have given us no issues in the past compared to 05/06. Both have been quite reliable. Is truck guys tend to put the miles on these engines
2. Don't agree with necessity to run knock sensors unless a highly tuned engine. Even then reading plugs/A/F is key, not relying on knock sensors to pull timing.
3.no headache at all on bolt pattern, it's not that different and I proved with my Quad Cab T56 conversions and my own personal that everyone said couldn't be done. 70k miles later I still smile each shift
Mileage increased from 12.5-13 hwy to 18-19.5, lost weight, faster, etc. Also had a guy or two put our 48re behind a manual block with no issues.
Done turbo 400s and 4l80s as well. Of course with adapter plate
No adapter plate for 48re to T56 blocks needed
To each their own. Not me, and not ever here. Do it right or don't do it at all.
That said...
Number 1, that's interesting, considering that's a Hall Effect sensor, and not a Magneto Reluctive [VR] sensor. By using pads rather than holes, you just inverted the signal output. I would love to see what that ECU "thinks" is going on now that all of the rising and falling edges are reversed
On number 2, of course, the tune is paramount as knock sensing is reactionary. However, that doesn't change the fact that you just handicapped yourself. Things happen, and its better to be safe and correct, than sorry you saved a few bucks when doing it. Fuel changes, injector problems, plug issues... a dozen different things can cause knock issues.
Last edited:
bmxam962
Full Access Member
To each their own. Not me, and not ever here. Do it right or don't do it at all.
That said...
Number 1, that's interesting, considering that's a Hall Effect sensor, and not a Magneto Reluctive [VR] sensor. By using pads rather than holes, you just inverted the signal output. I would love to see what that ECU "thinks" if going on now that all of the rising and falling edges are reversed
On number 2, of course, the tune is paramount as knock sensing is reactionary. However, that doesn't change the fact that you just handicapped yourself. Things happen, and its better to be safe and correct, than sorry you saved a few bucks when doing it. Fuel changes, injector problems, plug issues... a dozen different things can cause knock issues.
Ok well I have a 04 with out knock sensors so befor I build this motor should I get a newer block and scrap my 04 one? I was going to boost it but would hate to do something half ass.
bmxam962
Full Access Member
It will produce more load but like I posted that is affected by tuning. Knock sensors aren't saviors, tuning is
A/F and plug reading is crucial regardless of stock or heavily modified, boosted etc.
Wow thanks for that info I had no idea that's how it worked.
Pirana131313
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Bumpp
Final GTS
Full Access Member
If you want my honest opinion, sell the 04 block to a guy who has an 04 Ram/Viper. Pick up at minimum a 2005-2006 Manual block, preferably an Auto block in your case. They are out there floating around.
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