MurderedQC
Full Access Member
Did you get a used ecm or go through a dealer?
need help asap
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MurderedQC
Full Access Member
what wire is blue with white stripe in the lowest plug on the ecm? I looked in the wire loom and it was repaired once, but it looks to be done well, but might as well confirm what wire it is.
trussman
Active Member
Still under warranty so I went thru the stealership. They claimed the fuel injectors somehow shorted out the ecm. I didn't have to pay so I said who cares.
Well I can tell u I had a nightmare with my truck that sounds pretty much what yours is doing. Mine was throwing a p1389 which was asd relay, only problem was asd relay is integrated in the fuse box and has no fuse, atleast the 06's are that way. The 05's have an actual fuse you can change. After many hours and days trying to resolve the issue it turned out to be a short in the engine bay wire harness. Haven't had any issues since. Someone else had the same code thrown because of melted o2 wire that was grounding and truck cut off suddenly and would start. You obviously have a short somewhere. Don't think the ECM though
trussman
Active Member
If his ECM was ok why won't it give a code or even read that it is there? Yours gave a code, something his won't do. And its blowing ecm fuses. Seems likely to be an ecm.
Sounds like a short curcuit! Dig dig dig. Untll you find it
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The big thing that is bothering me though is that I still can not read codes. If the ecm fuse blows does that make is so I cant check codes at all?
I agree with it NOT being the ECM and being a shorted sensor especially the
O2 sensors, but I can say that A crank and cam sensor can go out without throwing a code
Can also say it won't just throw a code saying what's shorting your ECM fuse out. I would see what all sensors are on that particular plug of your ECM and locate and check those. Crank and cam sensors are cheap and easy to replace. But something shorting your ECM is likely an O2 or your simulator.
trussman
Active Member
Be careful not to start throwing money at it with this sensow and that sensor. Save yourself a headache and have a good shop or the dealer check it out. Might cost ya 90 bucks but it is better than replacing tons of small stuff that doesn't fix your problem. Diagnosing over a forum prolly isn't the best route with electrical issues. I'm sure I'm not the only one who will wanna know the outcome once u find the prob. I have done the parts replacement game with vehicles in the past. Just get it checked out, you won't regret it.
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
I know that route trust me... on my old truck I spent $1,000 in sensors with no result and found out it was a timing chain... ended up needing a new motor ha.
Just to clarify, its not my truck doesnt have any "codes" its that my truck literally wont let me check them no matter what I do. Doing the ignition sequence does nothing and a scan tool cant communicate with the actual ecm.
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
Also, i did put a 40a fuse into the ecm/asd fuse slot and it did not blow, but truck still didnt start or pull codes.
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MurderedQC said:
Don't ever do that. Pull that fuse out.
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
its out already, I mainly did it to see if I could get the scan tool to read at all for codes.
trussman
Active Member
Actually if ya leave it in there the problem could solve itself. It could learn some ford blood and burn to the ground in your driveway
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
Actually if ya leave it in there the problem could solve itself. It could learn some ford blood and burn to the ground in your driveway
no no no, no burn down ha. Although it is chilly here in Wisconsin and it might make for some good heat
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One of the funnier things I have seen back in my day of doing car audio...
Car came in and the owner said the radio didn't work. Looked and there was no fuse in the fuse box. Put the recommended size fuse in it (15a)............
The harness lit up bright red like a lightbulb and started smoking really bad. Never did blow that fuse though
Car came in and the owner said the radio didn't work. Looked and there was no fuse in the fuse box. Put the recommended size fuse in it (15a)............
The harness lit up bright red like a lightbulb and started smoking really bad. Never did blow that fuse though
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
One of the funnier things I have seen back in my day of doing car audio...
Car came in and the owner said the radio didn't work. Looked and there was no fuse in the fuse box. Put the recommended size fuse in it (15a)............
The harness lit up bright red like a lightbulb and started smoking really bad. Never did blow that fuse though
hahaha! Did you have to replace the whole harness?
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nope.
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
just went over as many wires as i could and visually they all look good :/ none are by a heat source or anything. I guess my next step is pulling the o2 sims, This is what I dont get though. If the ecm is not plugged in, then the fuse does not blow. Once the ecm is plugged in it blows. Even if the ecm was unplugged and there was a short somewhere else wouldnt the fuse still blow? The ecm doesnt provide power because the fuse panel is directly powered by the battery. I would think that if an o2 is shorting the system or if the fuse panel was corrupt it should matter if the ecm was unplugged or not.
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Whatever is shorted is connected to the ECM, or is in the ECM
Not if it it ran to the ECM for power, or ground
Doesn't need to provide power, just complete the circuit
Again, just completing the circuit.
MurderedQC
Full Access Member
grrrr what a headach ha.... I just want to drive my new truck
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