clutch replaced by cadilac dealer have a few questions

Tear Jerk

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I bought my truck about a month and a half ago and recently took it back to the cadilac dealer to have what i thought was a rear main seal replaced. They then notified me that it was the trans that was leaking so they sent it to a trans shop. The shop diagnosed it as the input shaft seal that was leaking. While they had it apart i asked them to check the clutch and replace it if necessary. They then said the clutch was bad along with the aftermarket flywheel being shot. They supposedly replaced the clutch flywheel slave cylinder cable fluid and the seal that was leaking. Before my clutch took a little effort to use and now the new one feels like you could use a pinky finger to push it down.

My question is what type of feel is it supposed to have with a stock style clutch bc if they used cheap stuff id like to know. Thanks
 
What kinda flywheel do you have ? one of them can be rebuilt for like 70 bucks.

I did the whole upgrade hydraulics and when I got the truck back the clutch pedal was easy to mash. before it was like a dump truck :)

Had the rearmain done also, 6 months later it was leaking again :confused:
 
Not sure about the old flywheel or even what new stuff they used they said oem but who knows. I guess ill try to bleed the clutch today. Ill have to look up how to do it because itll be my first time trying it. Thanks for the replies.
 
In the future I probably wouldn't encourage a dealership to look for problems. Funny that you told them that if the clutch was bad to replace it and what do you know, it was "bad". 9 times out of 10 if I suspect something with my truck, I go to a chain place like Goodyear or a Dodge dealer on the other side of town and pay the $50 diagnostic fee and don't tell them what I suspect is wrong, I let them look it over and make me a laundry list of things. I then take that list and go to a trusted Dodge dealership service department and usually bring the part in-hand and tell them specifically what I want. I've found they are less likely to find other things if you point them in a specific direction that you know is a problem and have the part in hand. Another good thing to do is get a diagnostic check and then post what they tell you on here and see what everyone thinks. If it's BS, the guys on here will help you sniff it out. Did you suspect the clutch needing replacing to begin with? If you've driven stick for a while you should be able to tell.
 
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Not sure about the old flywheel or even what new stuff they used they said oem but who knows. I guess ill try to bleed the clutch today. Ill have to look up how to do it because itll be my first time trying it. Thanks for the replies.

Front of truck on jackstands....find bleeder..right side of truck where quick connector hydro line goes into trans....top off fluid..one person in truck. Slowly and steadily press clutch ped 1 time...crack bleeder until bubbles stop but before fluid stops coming out. Do not pump ped this will create bubbles...one time to the floor then crack bleeder....repeat until ped is stiff....i replaced my master and it took me 6 to 8 times before i was happy.....also check the fluid each time you crack the bleeder..
 
First thanks for the how to on bleeding the system thats really helpful. Second i had a good idea the clutch was going. It had started to slip a little and had a bad shutter sometimes when you would take off easy in first from a stop. I only asked them to check it bc the leak that was between the engine and trans was their responsibilityto fix because i caught it on the test drive and made them give pe a promisery note that it would be fixed. In all with all the clutch parts replaced i had to pay 350$ total so i dont feel the screwed me in any way i just wasnt sure why the clutch felt so puxxy like. Now ill bleed it and then call them back to see whos going to pay to fix my start button bc it got broke loose somehow while they had it. Thanks again for all the help.
 
I hope the bleed takes care of it!....i got my 10 back in march drove home 9 hrs home and then a week later the master rod snapped in half WTF???...got to looking at the broken part and it was bad/weak right from the factory...the master was only 120 with my ole mans discount so i just ate it and installed myself.....really didn't want anyone else touching her anyway!!!
 
A good repair shop will always try to upsell. Some are honest with what they find, some are not.

Easiest way to bleed it is just crack the bleed screw and let gravity do its job. May take a little longer, but it works just fine.
 
A good repair shop will always try to upsell. Some are honest with what they find, some are not.

Easiest way to bleed it is just crack the bleed screw and let gravity do its job. May take a little longer, but it works just fine.

My OCD would not allow me to wate that long LOL...:D:D:D
 
Thanks again everyone. For the last couple days ive been trying to get the dealership to replace the center dash section that holds the start button bc someone broke the tabs that it screws to while it was in there care. These stealerships just suck. On top of that they wont give me a copy of the invoice from the shop they used so i can knkw what parts they used. They "told" me oem but how can i be positive without the invoice. With my experience i would say stay far away from dealerships and find a good shop with a mech. That you can trust. Now back to the phone calls to try to get this stuff settled.
 
stay far away from dealerships and find a good shop with a mech. That you can trust.

Just because you are working with a dealership doesn't mean you are going to get screwed. I've had bad experiences with private shops too. I get all my parts from a member here that is a Service Writer at a dealership. Every transaction has been awesome. If I lived in his part of the country, I would not hesitate to put my truck in his care.
 
Comments like this bother the piss out of me. You have a bad experience with one dealership and you lump all dealerships together. We are not all alike and there are good ones out there, you just didn't find one in this case.

These stealerships just suck. With my experience i would say stay far away from dealerships and find a good shop with a mech. That you can trust.
 
This isnt my first bad dealings with a dealership and i know there are a few good ones but the majority of them dont care for your car like you would. I order all my oem dodge parts from Tators and if i lived within a 3 hour drive would not hesitate to take my vehicles to him. I never said all indipendant shops were greatjust that you have to find one with a mech that you can trust to take care of your car/truck as its theres. I didnt mean to offend anyone im just frustrated. So i apologize.
 
This is exactly why i have NEVER had a single one of my vehicles in a dealership or repair shop!!!...It sucks because a few worthless techs (and dealers) have gave the auto repair industry a bad rap...not to mention have to fight a dealer for warranty repairs!!!!...I work in this industry and i take pride in my work and relationships with my customers!!...They also know how valuable this relationship is!
 
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10 year john deere tech....not quite auto industry but close and same circumstances!!!!

My friends john deere caught on fire, He had the worst time dealing with john deere.

now a kubota is sitting in it's spot.
 
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Comments like this bother the piss out of me. You have a bad experience with one dealership and you lump all dealerships together. We are not all alike and there are good ones out there, you just didn't find one in this case.

Agree.

I know the tech along with almost everyone at my dealership.

Really nice people, They can't stay in business by screwing everyone over.

I'm sure some people get the raw end of the deal sometimes, it's going to happen there or in a private local place.
 

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