Centerforce Clutch and Viper Cylinders Package

J

JMB Justin

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I now have a clutch upgrade for the RC trucks available at a great price. It includes:
-Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
-Viper Master Cylinder Assembly
-Viper Slave Cylinder Assembly
-Proper Billet Aluminum Shim for Viper Master Cylinder (for proper pedal height)
-Mounting Bracket and Hardware for the Viper Master Cylinder Remote Resevoir
-Clamp and Nut for Securing the Hydraulic Line away from the Exhaust

100_1795e.JPG

100_1783e.JPG


Price is $999 and you can add a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel for $470
Heres the link, I will be offering free shipping on this setup to the lower 48 (and discounted for everyone else) for one of my February VTCOA deals (this deal starts today and ends on 2/28):
http://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_106&products_id=257
Thanks,
Justin
 
JMB Justin said:
I now have a clutch upgrade for the RC trucks available at a great price. It includes:
-Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
-Viper Master Cylinder Assembly
-Viper Slave Cylinder Assembly
-Proper Billet Aluminum Shim for Viper Master Cylinder (for proper pedal height)
-Mounting Bracket and Hardware for the Viper Master Cylinder Remote Resevoir
-Clamp and Nut for Securing the Hydraulic Line away from the Exhaust

100_1795e.JPG

100_1783e.JPG


Price is $999 and you can add a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel for $470
Heres the link, I will be offering free shipping on this setup to the lower 48 (and discounted for everyone else) for one of my February VTCOA deals (this deal starts today and ends on 2/28):
http://jmbperformance.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=66_106&products_id=257
Thanks,
Justin
Click to expand...
This picture is what I needed:rock:
 
I just installed this set up, been sitting around for a year. My kit came with extra parts that dont show in picture, 4" round disc? are they to be used? I have only drove it about 50 miles so far, the pedal seams to be way easier then stock, is this normal?
 
Mines never had the disc and I bought it used, with half it's life left, and have gone 40k miles with hundreds of track launches ;-)
 
VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
Mines never had the disc and I bought it used, with half it's life left, and have gone 40k miles with hundreds of track launches ;-)
Click to expand...

The disk keeps the cylnder from blowing out when the clutch is worn to its min. thickness. If you have a aluminum flywheel it's worse. It may work fine now, but once your clutch is well worn it will leak.
 
Thank you'll for inputs. After break in period I planed on taking apart to see how is all working, at that time I will put in.

Put about 100 mile on yesterday, the clutch feels way different then stock.

Thanks again,
Adam
 
BigRed460 said:
The disk keeps the cylnder from blowing out when the clutch is worn to its min. thickness. If you have a aluminum flywheel it's worse. It may work fine now, but once your clutch is well worn it will leak.
Click to expand...

It is at its minimum and had been! Still sticks like superglue and I do have an aluminum flywheel. Still speed shift and rarely miss 3rd :)
 
madmanadam said:
Thank you'll for inputs. After break in period I planed on taking apart to see how is all working, at that time I will put in.

Put about 100 mile on yesterday, the clutch feels way different then stock.

Thanks again,
Adam
Click to expand...

As hard as it is to resist, let it fully break in. No RaCiNg!! Lol
It'll last your many years and miles of abuse. Enjoy a great choice in clutches :)
 
VENOMOUS1 RACING said:
It is at its minimum and had been! Still sticks like superglue and I do have an aluminum flywheel. Still speed shift and rarely miss 3rd :)
Click to expand...

If you clutch still grabs like super glue then it's not worn yet, every time I caught mine leaking it was up against the rivets on the clutch and slipping in 5th.
 
:rock:
not alum yet, but new. breaking in slow,yes. breaking in the 4:56 gears at the same time.

new set up, for me seam interesting. the clutch wants to be let out fast and is only about 1-2 inch freeply.:dontknow: I get a little hoppy, when slow, like leaving a stop sign. Is that normal?
its going to be a bit to 500 miles, since this is not my daily driver and its wet right now.:(
 
I'm sure it'll settle after break in. Mines not hoppy at all. Did you install new flywheel or resurface it?
 
Break in time is done and all is great. Had someone else drive the truck and he was impressed with the clutch and how smooth it was. Now I need to get to a track and test.
 
I think I'm about to go ahead and pull the trigger on this clutch upgrade. Had the truck for a couple months now and noticed the clutch pedal squeak when I bought it, but didnt have any issues with clutch engagement or pedal stiffness. Well just last week I noticed the pedal getting squishy and the trans doesn't want to go into reverse without a lot of effort, also the 1st to 2nd is a little tough. I'm not noticing any slipping in any gear.

My question is do I need to do the whole package (clutch, flywheel, cylinder upgrades) or is it ok to just replace the clutch slave and master?

Thanks,
Aron
 
rocco787 said:
I think I'm about to go ahead and pull the trigger on this clutch upgrade. Had the truck for a couple months now and noticed the clutch pedal squeak when I bought it, but didnt have any issues with clutch engagement or pedal stiffness. Well just last week I noticed the pedal getting squishy and the trans doesn't want to go into reverse without a lot of effort, also the 1st to 2nd is a little tough. I'm not noticing any slipping in any gear.

My question is do I need to do the whole package (clutch, flywheel, cylinder upgrades) or is it ok to just replace the clutch slave and master?

Thanks,
Aron
Click to expand...

IMHO, do the flywheel while you are in there. I had an aluminum flywheel in my first 10 and it was the best upgrade I made. It revved so much faster.
 
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