Where can I find a parts manual - some parts I’m looking for are missing

2005ViperRam

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Where can I find different (varied) parts manual for a 2005 QC? i.e. as up-to-date as the Mopar dealer has?

For example, I am trying to find the front fascia panel, part number 05029920AB and/or 05029921AB in the parts manual. Not sure of the release date, but that manual is posted in this group. Both my fascia are broken. Online they are selling for $299 each side. That’s crazy money.

This part is basically just a flat ASB plastic that is located on the front end where the bumper meets the wheel well. I can’t find that part listed in the parts manual.

Same as with this rear drivers side cladding mount, part number 05029480AD. I was trying to find a suitable hex headed bolt since mine broke off. I was trying to locate the bolt in the parts manual, and tried to narrow it down by putting the part number for the mount.

I couldn’t even find the mount part number listed (Ctrl-F), yet you can Ctrl-F any other part number in the PDF and it will find those. btw: the bolt is a 5mm x .8 x 23mm, and Amazon has 30 for $10. Strange, no company stocks even just one single bolt in the Denver area. Luckily, Amazon will have it in two days.

So where do I find various parts manual just to compare if others list additional parts or have a better diagram? Strange when you put the part numbers listed above in Google, the Mopar dealers have a different page showing the fascia, but not the mount. So where would you recommend looking?
 

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Does Chiltons or Haynes have one for our trucks?
 
Ask aDodge dealer or other repair shop what books they use. Probably all online these days
 
And BTW those are some dirty holes!!!! :oops: :cool:
 
Where can I find different (varied) parts manual for a 2005 QC? i.e. as up-to-date as the Mopar dealer has?

For example, I am trying to find the front fascia panel, part number 05029920AB and/or 05029921AB in the parts manual. Not sure of the release date, but that manual is posted in this group. Both my fascia are broken. Online they are selling for $299 each side. That’s crazy money.

This part is basically just a flat ASB plastic that is located on the front end where the bumper meets the wheel well. I can’t find that part listed in the parts manual.

Same as with this rear drivers side cladding mount, part number 05029480AD. I was trying to find a suitable hex headed bolt since mine broke off. I was trying to locate the bolt in the parts manual, and tried to narrow it down by putting the part number for the mount.

I couldn’t even find the mount part number listed (Ctrl-F), yet you can Ctrl-F any other part number in the PDF and it will find those. btw: the bolt is a 5mm x .8 x 23mm, and Amazon has 30 for $10. Strange, no company stocks even just one single bolt in the Denver area. Luckily, Amazon will have it in two days.

So where do I find various parts manual just to compare if others list additional parts or have a better diagram? Strange when you put the part numbers listed above in Google, the Mopar dealers have a different page showing the fascia, but not the mount. So where would you recommend looking?
What exactly you are looking to do .. Broken fascia’s , bracket bolt replacements .. Seems both are possibly easy to repair r have repaired .. I can say that some of the body clad is held on using 2 sided tape !
What is broken on the Fascia ? Have you tried Home Depot for the bolt or one of the used parts places for the 10’s ?
And as Wifey stated clean those holes lol
 
What is broken on the Fascia ? Have you tried Home Depot for the bolt or one of the used parts places for the 10’s ?
And as Wifey stated clean those holes lol
The Fascia is broken. Slowly I am moving to different areas of the truck as I am working other issues. Since I just finished the front end rebuild, I am replace items such as the wheel well since it was destroyed by having the truck lowered and bottoming out and cracking the ABS.

Being an really old Corvette guy (I have a 1964 coupe), which I purchased when they were cheap in 1982, you learn to know that part numbers and date codes mean everything. If you have a Corvette that has a engine that was manufacture even a couple days before the car was built, it lowers your car value
incredibly. I figure these Ram SRT-10 will someday command a good price, but if you use parts that are not the same part number your value will go down
a lot.

For example, lets say the Wheel Wells I needed are not exactly the ones that were put on the truck when it was manufactured, then that will knock down the trucks value. Yes, 2005 Dodge Ram truck wheel wells seem to appear to look the same, and basically has the same part numbers (almost), a novice would
assume its ok to use. For me, it's the thrill of the hunt. I want the same part that came from the factory.

Lets use your truck for an example. Since your truck has never been into a wreck, or had any major work (like a broken wheel well) replaced, you would think your part number would match what is listed in the parts manual. So look at the parts manual, page 524 of 549, Front Fender figure SDR-410, and you will find out your part number isn't exactly the same as what is in the manual. The manual says:
Right - 55275834AF
Left - 55275835AF
I would bet yours is probably a different ending, probably AI. This means that Dodge remanufactured the part because of some issue. Being AF they change it at least 6 times in the past since they start with AA.

So this is why I really would like to see what actual parts came with my truck. Again, to me, its about having the exact correct part number.

Per the Fascia, one of mine is really bad, the other not so much. I'm trying to see what other Rams had this part installed, then when I'm at the junk yard it will be on my list of items to look for.

Attached is a picture of my Fascia. You can look at this ad, and you can see even used ones command $80 each, which is crazy.

That is why I just wonder where the different parts manuals are. Frankly, per Corvettes, vendors now have gotten together with the various OEM vendors and are reproducing the parts with all the exact date codes. You cannot tell a new part from an old part. They are 100% perfect. What's funny is if you have enough money, you could actually purchase all the new parts to make a new 1964 Corvette. It would cost you a fortune, but it could be done. There is only one part, which I need, that is not made. It's the only part that no vendor has ever reproduced since it was such a rarely use part.

The search continues....
 

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I GET YOU EXACTLY!! All those points are spot on in the world of a collector. In a concours event they even know if there was overspray in a certain area of the firewall (or whatevetstea) when the car left the factory. If that per say was something common to the vehicle. Paint codes are important too - every nut and bolt need tobe exact. That's how precise it can be.
 
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So if the Queen has never been molested all her parts should match what's in the book?? Or no??
 
So if the Queen has never been molested all her parts should match what's in the book?? Or no??
One would think to believe that, but I don’t think it’s true. My example of the wheel wells is a prime example. The base part number for the 2004 thru 2006 is 55275834 (right) & 35 (left). However, they modified (Rev’d) the mold to make update for God know what reason. So if you look at the parts manual:
2004 - 55275834AD
2005 - 55275834AF
2006 - 55275834AI
What happened to AE, AG, AH?

Now look at my pictures (attached) of the broken wheel wells that I took out of my truck that were completely smashed up. You can tell that sometime in that trucks past the truck either was wrecked, or they smashed the wheel wells due to it being lowered. Why? Just look at date codes that are stamped in the ABS. These are both from the right hand side, one old, one new junk yard part. You will see:
RH - 02 (Feb) - 26 - 2003 (mine was stamped with AE)
RH - 09 (Sept) - 26 - 2001 (mine I can’t read it)

I am just guessing on all this, but I don’t thing Dodge held onto parts from 2001 to put on a 2005 truck. Same as the missing Rev’d letters. I think they updated the drawings somewhere in the production run for the entire 2004 thru 2006 series.

I just wished there was someone to ask if this is a true statement because I truly want to know. I want to put guaranteed known part numbers on my truck since some of these normal 1500 trucks are being smashed up at the junk yard, and I can easily get them.
 

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One would think to believe that, but I don’t think it’s true. My example of the wheel wells is a prime example. The base part number for the 2004 thru 2006 is 55275834 (right) & 35 (left). However, they modified (Rev’d) the mold to make update for God know what reason. So if you look at the parts manual:
2004 - 55275834AD
2005 - 55275834AF
2006 - 55275834AI
What happened to AE, AG, AH?

Now look at my pictures (attached) of the broken wheel wells that I took out of my truck that were completely smashed up. You can tell that sometime in that trucks past the truck either was wrecked, or they smashed the wheel wells due to it being lowered. Why? Just look at date codes that are stamped in the ABS. These are both from the right hand side, one old, one new junk yard part. You will see:
RH - 02 (Feb) - 26 - 2003 (mine was stamped with AE)
RH - 09 (Sept) - 26 - 2001 (mine I can’t read it)

I am just guessing on all this, but I don’t thing Dodge held onto parts from 2001 to put on a 2005 truck. Same as the missing Rev’d letters. I think they updated the drawings somewhere in the production run for the entire 2004 thru 2006 series.

I just wished there was someone to ask if this is a true statement because I truly want to know. I want to put guaranteed known part numbers on my truck since some of these normal 1500 trucks are being smashed up at the junk yard, and I can easily get them.
Hmmmm dang you! Hahahaha!

The second row of numbers seems the same as the top row only there is - AA after the number. So is AA the original and the top row are revisions?

And could they have used prior years parts where prior years parts were the same? 1500 vs SRT10 - certain parts would be interchangeable right? Like maybe the wheel wells and many regular body parts?

And I'm totally guessing I have no idea! I'll have overthink about it :eek:
 
Member @divco13 possibly could know- I think he worked in the factory on prototypes

Maybe he will chime in
 
If any part came with a dirty hole ya better not clean it up!! Hahahaha!!!
I heard you sister!
In the Corvette world they have experts that just know it, and they judge your car. On my car I was really worried that it was stolen at one time. 1964 Corvettes didn’t rivet the visible VIN plate to the frame. Mine VIN plate had “rose bud rivet”. Luckily on Corvettes they stamp 3 secret VIN numbers on various areas of the frame. When I pulled my body off to do an off frame restoration these VIN’s were seen and actually matched the visible VIN, and also the title. I had the frame powder coated and had the powder coater mask off these secret VIN so the wouldn’t be either sand blasted or powder coated over. A Corvette judge (at a cost) verified all of this, and wrote a document saying that the glue on the VIN plate sometimes dried up and it fell off. The dealers would rivet it back on to make it permanently attached.
With Corvettes not only do part numbers & date codes need to match, but also you need to prove it’s actually your car and not stolen.
 
I heard you sister!
In the Corvette world they have experts that just know it, and they judge your car. On my car I was really worried that it was stolen at one time. 1964 Corvettes didn’t rivet the visible VIN plate to the frame. Mine VIN plate had “rose bud rivet”. Luckily on Corvettes they stamp 3 secret VIN numbers on various areas of the frame. When I pulled my body off to do an off frame restoration these VIN’s were seen and actually matched the visible VIN, and also the title. I had the frame powder coated and had the powder coater mask off these secret VIN so the wouldn’t be either sand blasted or powder coated over. A Corvette judge (at a cost) verified all of this, and wrote a document saying that the glue on the VIN plate sometimes dried up and it fell off. The dealers would rivet it back on to make it permanently attached.
With Corvettes not only do part numbers & date codes need to match, but also you need to prove it’s actually your car and not stolen.
Good thing you know to do all that and to look for those things! The car world is very quirky for sure
 
Hmmmm dang you! Hahahaha!

The second row of numbers seems the same as the top row only there is - AA after the number. So is AA the original and the top row are revisions?

And could they have used prior years parts where prior years parts were the same? 1500 vs SRT10 - certain parts would be interchangeable right? Like maybe the wheel wells and many regular body parts?

And I'm totally guessing I have no idea! I'll have overthink about it :eek:
There is a big difference between “interchangeable” aka “suitable replacement”, and the actual part # which was delivered with the truck. Kind-of of like my engine on the other car. No one would ever know that it has oversized pistons and roller rocker since it’s not visible from the other side. You would need to have to tear the engine down to find that out, but by God if the machine shop decks (plains down the block) and grinds off the engine vin stamp (which is visible), you would loose about $20K.
 
There is a big difference between “interchangeable” aka “suitable replacement”, and the actual part # which was delivered with the truck. Kind-of of like my engine on the other car. No one would ever know that it has oversized pistons and roller rocker since it’s not visible from the other side. You would need to have to tear the engine down to find that out, but by God if the machine shop decks (plains down the block) and grinds off the engine vin stamp (which is visible), you would loose about $20K.
Got it - makes sense!
 
Hmmmm dang you! Hahahaha!

The second row of numbers seems the same as the top row only there is - AA after the number. So is AA the original and the top row are revisions?

And could they have used prior years parts where prior years parts were the same? 1500 vs SRT10 - certain parts would be interchangeable right? Like maybe the wheel wells and many regular body parts?

And I'm totally guessing I have no idea! I'll have overthink about it :eek:
Just a guess . I see no reason that Dodge would have not used previous years ,, The Ram has been a high production truck and the wheel wells on the 10’s are possibly specific to all rams or specific years styles .. it’s possible the last 2 letters had something to do with manufacturing lot numbers and not used in any real specific order .. Similar to the 10s production numbers f the assembly line .
It appears yours are AE and the other one is AI maybe some designation between left and right side .
 

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