bleeding the clutch

turkey baster

I like the turkey baster idea. But if I used my wife's baster I would have to use a stick or battery to hold peddle too. I have assortment of syringes some with small tubes on end, they work great for draining small reservoirs.
 
john b said:
I like the turkey baster idea. But if I used my wife's baster I would have to use a stick or battery to hold peddle too. I have assortment of syringes some with small tubes on end, they work great for draining small reservoirs.
Click to expand...
you have a wife, have her, a neighbor or someone pump and hold for you. It's a pain in the butt doing that by yourself sir.

In the carb cleaner/gas can section at walmart there's a syringe for mixing 2 stroke oil into gas. It's cheap and doesnt leak. That's what i use. Or hell, get a turkey baster at the dollar store. Dont go stupid and use a pampered chef one:chain:
 
Probably get enough to do the clutch and brakes, may not be till spring though. Probably not a good idea to flush with all new fluid then have it sit for 4 months in storage..... Winters suck!!!!!!
 
In looking at this old thread I have a question on an additional method here regarding the gravity bleeding and a one-person job. Can you keep the clutch pedal depressed with a car battery, 2x4, etc. and then attach a vacuum bleeder (like pic below) to the bleeder, create a vacuum, open the bleeder valve, and then start pulling fluid from the open reservoir with the diaphragm removed, while of course checking the fluid level?

So, in this method the idea would be to just increase the gravity method by pulling the fluid through the system via a vacuum. So, the process would be just like brakes, if this works. Also, the intention here is to flush out all the old fluid in the clutch hydraulic system. I have not seen anyone mention doing it this way, so it is why I am asking. I need to flush 19 year old fluid out of 2005 RC RAM SRT10. Clutch still works but the fluid is ancient. (Just a side note, I tried using a vacuum bleeder on it, but the clutch pedal was not depressed, and no fluid was coming out through the bleeder. In reading this it looks it must be with this setup.)

Thanks for any feedback, and sorry for reviving a very old post.

Proposed method to flush system (1 person only):
1. Depress clutch pedal and keep held open with something to hold it down (battery, 2x4, etc)
2. Open Master Cylinder reservoir and remove diaphragm
3. Attach a vacuum bleeder to closed bleed screw at top of transmission.
1732133916554.png
4. Open bleed screw under vacuum and pull fluid through system with clutch pedal being held open during this process.
5. Close bleeder, keep vacuum pump attached, and build pressure back up
6. Check and refill open Master Cylinder reservoir as needed.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 until fluid is clear.
 
Last edited:
SlvrSnake said:
In looking at this old thread I have a question on an additional method here regarding the gravity bleeding and a one-person job. Can you keep the clutch pedal depressed with a car battery, 2x4, etc. and then attach a vacuum bleeder (like pic below) to the bleeder, create a vacuum, open the bleeder valve, and then start pulling fluid from the open reservoir with the diaphragm removed, while of course checking the fluid level?

So, in this method the idea would be to just increase the gravity method by pulling the fluid through the system via a vacuum. So, the process would be just like brakes, if this works. Also, the intention here is to flush out all the old fluid in the clutch hydraulic system. I have not seen anyone mention doing it this way, so it is why I am asking. I need to flush 19 year old fluid out of 2005 RC RAM SRT10. Clutch still works but the fluid is ancient. (Just a side note, I tried using a vacuum bleeder on it, but the clutch pedal was not depressed, and no fluid was coming out through the bleeder. In reading this it looks it must be with this setup.)

Thanks for any feedback, and sorry for reviving a very old post.

Proposed method to flush system (1 person only):
1. Depress clutch pedal and keep held open with something to hold it down (battery, 2x4, etc)
2. Open Master Cylinder reservoir and remove diaphragm
3. Attach a vacuum bleeder to closed bleed screw at top of transmission.
View attachment 67749
4. Open bleed screw under vacuum and pull fluid through system with clutch pedal being held open during this process.
5. Close bleeder, keep vacuum pump attached, and build pressure back up
6. Check and refill open Master Cylinder reservoir as needed.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 until fluid is clear.
Click to expand...
Connect the hose to the bleeder ,, have it submerged in a bottle of clutch fluid and slow push the clutch down to push out the old ,, have a T and a second hose with a cut off to a second bottle with new clutch fluid in it and suck it back in lol ….. well I’m sure something rigged up might just do the trick lol

That tool is great for bleeding breaks .. I have one but it broke .. cheap ass plastic lol
 
SlvrSnake said:
In looking at this old thread I have a question on an additional method here regarding the gravity bleeding and a one-person job. Can you keep the clutch pedal depressed with a car battery, 2x4, etc. and then attach a vacuum bleeder (like pic below) to the bleeder, create a vacuum, open the bleeder valve, and then start pulling fluid from the open reservoir with the diaphragm removed, while of course checking the fluid level?

So, in this method the idea would be to just increase the gravity method by pulling the fluid through the system via a vacuum. So, the process would be just like brakes, if this works. Also, the intention here is to flush out all the old fluid in the clutch hydraulic system. I have not seen anyone mention doing it this way, so it is why I am asking. I need to flush 19 year old fluid out of 2005 RC RAM SRT10. Clutch still works but the fluid is ancient. (Just a side note, I tried using a vacuum bleeder on it, but the clutch pedal was not depressed, and no fluid was coming out through the bleeder. In reading this it looks it must be with this setup.)

Thanks for any feedback, and sorry for reviving a very old post.

Proposed method to flush system (1 person only):
1. Depress clutch pedal and keep held open with something to hold it down (battery, 2x4, etc)
2. Open Master Cylinder reservoir and remove diaphragm
3. Attach a vacuum bleeder to closed bleed screw at top of transmission.
View attachment 67749
4. Open bleed screw under vacuum and pull fluid through system with clutch pedal being held open during this process.
5. Close bleeder, keep vacuum pump attached, and build pressure back up
6. Check and refill open Master Cylinder reservoir as needed.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 until fluid is clear.
Click to expand...
Does post 9 cover your question?
 
Just stay up all night and make sure the fluid in the reservoir does’t run out …
 
SlvrSnake said:
In looking at this old thread I have a question on an additional method here regarding the gravity bleeding and a one-person job. Can you keep the clutch pedal depressed with a car battery, 2x4, etc. and then attach a vacuum bleeder (like pic below) to the bleeder, create a vacuum, open the bleeder valve, and then start pulling fluid from the open reservoir with the diaphragm removed, while of course checking the fluid level?

So, in this method the idea would be to just increase the gravity method by pulling the fluid through the system via a vacuum. So, the process would be just like brakes, if this works. Also, the intention here is to flush out all the old fluid in the clutch hydraulic system. I have not seen anyone mention doing it this way, so it is why I am asking. I need to flush 19 year old fluid out of 2005 RC RAM SRT10. Clutch still works but the fluid is ancient. (Just a side note, I tried using a vacuum bleeder on it, but the clutch pedal was not depressed, and no fluid was coming out through the bleeder. In reading this it looks it must be with this setup.)

Thanks for any feedback, and sorry for reviving a very old post.

Proposed method to flush system (1 person only):
1. Depress clutch pedal and keep held open with something to hold it down (battery, 2x4, etc)
2. Open Master Cylinder reservoir and remove diaphragm
3. Attach a vacuum bleeder to closed bleed screw at top of transmission.

4. Open bleed screw under vacuum and pull fluid through system with clutch pedal being held open during this process.
5. Close bleeder, keep vacuum pump attached, and build pressure back up
6. Check and refill open Master Cylinder reservoir as needed.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 until fluid is clear.
Click to expand...

I've never had good luck with those hand vacuum devices. Almost every time I've used them I get air pulled through the bleeder threads leaving air in the system. If you don't see a steady flow of fluid then you'll trap air when you close the bleeder. Doesn't matter if I tried teflon tape, thread sealant, or grease around the threads.

If you're doing it solo use something like this:

Amazon.com: wonofa Accelerator Pedal Depressor Car Brake Pedal Depressor Tool for Wheel Alignment Repair : Automotive

Buy wonofa Accelerator Pedal Depressor Car Brake Pedal Depressor Tool for Wheel Alignment Repair: Pedals & Pedal Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

I've had really good luck with solo bleeders as well but you'll need to pull the transmission to install one.
 
Last edited:
_JB_ said:
I've never had good luck with those hand vacuum devices. Almost every time I've used them I get air pulled through the bleeder threads leaving air in the system. If you don't see a steady flow of fluid then you'll trap air when you close the bleeder. Doesn't matter if I tried teflon tape, thread sealant, or grease around the threads.

If you're doing it solo use something like this:

Amazon.com: wonofa Accelerator Pedal Depressor Car Brake Pedal Depressor Tool for Wheel Alignment Repair : Automotive

Buy wonofa Accelerator Pedal Depressor Car Brake Pedal Depressor Tool for Wheel Alignment Repair: Pedals & Pedal Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

I've had really good luck with solo bleeders as well but you'll need to pull the transmission to install one.
Click to expand...
That's a fancy 2x4!!! Hahah

Good info!
 
_JB_ said:
I've never had good luck with those hand vacuum devices. Almost every time I've used them I get air pulled through the bleeder threads leaving air in the system. If you don't see a steady flow of fluid then you'll trap air when you close the bleeder. Doesn't matter if I tried teflon tape, thread sealant, or grease around the threads.

If you're doing it solo use something like this:

Amazon.com: wonofa Accelerator Pedal Depressor Car Brake Pedal Depressor Tool for Wheel Alignment Repair : Automotive

Buy wonofa Accelerator Pedal Depressor Car Brake Pedal Depressor Tool for Wheel Alignment Repair: Pedals & Pedal Accessories - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

I've had really good luck with solo bleeders as well but you'll need to pull the transmission to install one.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that is pretty high speed. I am going to try to the gravity bleed or use the vacuum tool as I mentioned. If I keep the pressure low it should lower the risk of pulling in air. Thank you for the feedback. I just wanted to make sure that trying this method was not detrimental in any way.
 
Just to help out someone else who may look at this down the road and wonder what in world is being talked about and where are the parts and what do they look like. Slave cylinder is located inside the transmission shown in second pic. Master Cylinder, third pic, is under the MC reservoir (follow the black tube connected to it) right behind and below the battery positive terminal area and connected through firewall to clutch pedal assembly. The reservoir for the master cylinder will have yellow cap if the stock unit, not black as pictured. Reference pic at bottom.

Picture 1
1732213758315.png
Picture 2 - Slave Cylinder
1732213802294.png
Picture 3 - Master Cylinder
1732214155453.png

Master Cylinder reservoir is yellow cap to right of bigger reservoir (big one is the brakes)
1732215103580.png
 
SlvrSnake said:
Just to help out someone else who may look at this down the road and wonder what in world is being talked about and where are the parts and what do they look like. Slave cylinder is located inside the transmission shown in second pic. Master Cylinder, third pic, is under the MC reservoir (follow the black tube connected to it) right behind and below the battery positive terminal area and connected through firewall to clutch pedal assembly. The reservoir for the master cylinder will have yellow cap if the stock unit, not black as pictured. Reference pic at bottom.

Picture 1
View attachment 67760
Picture 2 - Slave Cylinder
View attachment 67761
Picture 3 - Master Cylinder
View attachment 67762

Master Cylinder reservoir is yellow cap to right of bigger reservoir (big one is the brakes)
View attachment 67763
Click to expand...
Good info.. thanks
 
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