Mech waterpump delete

Hi guys and girls, has anyone deleted the mech water pump yet and installed an electric one?
I have a new Davis Craig pump and fans I’m going to install. (Manly due to being in NZ and core exchanges are a big pain in the arse)
Any tips tricks would be appreciated!

I have never heard about this being done on the trucks … Hmmm interesting and how does it hook up and operate ?

@Kiwi SRT10 Homey needs assistance lol

Welcome to the red button club where insanity is a part of life

Since the 10’s have a hydraulic fan connected to the power steering , how will you bypass the hydraulics ?

VIPR PWR said:

Since the 10’s have a hydraulic fan connected to the power steering , how will you bypass the hydraulics ?

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I’m guessing either cap off, worst case is loop the the line (disconnect the fan and join the P and T lines)

VIPR PWR said:

I have never heard about this being done on the trucks … Hmmm interesting and how does it hook up and operate ?

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The pump is installed on the low radiator hose, temp sensor on the hot side. That side of things is simple. It has a controller that’s easy to set what parameters you want.
Question is do I remove the waterpump pulley… or just the impeller and use as an idler. It looks like I’ll loose to much crank pulley contact if I remove and blank off. I had no idea the fans were hydraulic until I spaced this out..

RavengerSRT10 said:

The pump is installed on the low radiator hose, temp sensor on the hot side. That side of things is simple. It has a controller that’s easy to set what parameters you want.
Question is do I remove the waterpump pulley… or just the impeller and use as an idler. It looks like I’ll loose to much crank pulley contact if I remove and blank off. I had no idea the fans were hydraulic until I spaced this out..

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What does the manufacturer say about the pulley or impeller?
Im not sure if you can or should remove the impeller and left in may cause a possible restriction of coolant flow. Would the impeller defeat the purpose of the new pump ?
Without looking at mine right now ,,,, Is the water pump inlet integrated with the pump hosing ? If not then possibly remove the entire water pump and fabricate a plate in the pumps place to seal it off getting rid of the impeller and pulley ??? You will have to get a new serpentine belt to fit which I don't believe will be a problem !
Again Im just winging it as I haven’t looked at the pump set up on my truck ..
Maybe someone will chime in that has more inside of the water pump and coolant system on the 10 ..

@rottenronnie , @Kiwi SRT10 have a lot of experience on how these engines are put together among others hahahaha

The pump appears to not have the inlet so making a plate and removing the pulley and impeller pump I think would be a good option as long as the new system can handle the spec for cooling

The new pump is well above spec of the mech pump, especially at slow speed/low rpm. They say leaving the impeller in works ok, but not as ideal as removing it obviously.

RavengerSRT10 said:

The new pump is well above spec of the mech pump, especially at slow speed/low rpm. They say leaving the impeller in works ok, but not as ideal as removing it obviously.

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May be something to think of as a back up in case the new pump quits . Leave the factory pump on just in case ..

Almost all the parts for the Dakota cam in … waiting on 2 more caliper pins and had to buy a sr of spindle nut sockets since the left and right nuts are very large and Utube gives me 3 different sizes for my truck .. most say 36mm another says 35mm and one said 32mm sockets .. MAKE UP YOUR DAMN MIND VIDIOTS AND DODGE lol .. well I ordered a set covering from 29mm to 38mm so should cover , Well , Unless their not metric lol ..
need to find my 7mm Allen socket to remove and install the caliper pins and hope for the best removal doesn’t strip out the mounting holes again in the steering knuckle some don’t have to use the helicons but bought the set anyway hoping it’s going to work if needed .. rain rain go the heck away and get my last couple parts here dang it !

Hubs are from Detroit Axle and included the nuts , most dont include the nuts and cost around 16 tp 22$ each .. pads are ceramic and new pins are stock size which I the ones in the truck are over size self threading repair pins from NAPA . If they strip the threads the helicoil time and I found my drill , inch pound and foot poun torque wrenches … IF ALL ELSE FAIL JB WELD EVERYTHING HAHAHAHA !

Ooops sorry on those last 2 posts lol meant to put them in another thread .. Hey it’s been a long rainy day here so I’ll mark it up to post hoing lol

VIPR PWR said:

Ooops sorry on those last 2 posts lol meant to put them in another thread .. Hey it’s been a long rainy day here so I’ll mark it up to post hoing lol

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I was wondering hahaha!!

Well since I started it on this thread I’ll have to continue on the Dakota insanity ..

Received all but another hex socket set due to Dodge , Dorman and who knows who else that can’t make the parts that match the truck …The sizes of the new parts and even on the truck appear to be all over the place on sizes of the nuts bolts and hex sizes .. Metric or no metric that is the question ….



Hub socket set just to be sure I have the right size on the new Nuts and still no idea what size is on the truck , yet , but I should be covered now . Stinks as It’s a set that will most likely only be used once or twice depending if I do the 10’s hubs !




Just received the second set non metric so that should cover the caliper pin sizes … 1 is a 5 mm on the truck another is a 6mm and 2 7mm hex..
the new ones , same part numbers yet different from Dorman WTH! 2 use a 7/32 ( not metric ) hex and why I bought the non metric set today . The other 2 use a 13/32 socket
If they or any strip the knuckle hole ,,, the heli coil must be done . Just hoping I have purchased the right heli coil size if needed !




Other things hopefully to make install smoother !



Since I have the upper ball Joints and they are riveted on the truck I’ll install the also .. The lowers are factory riveted and can be a pain in the ask along with the possible HOA asshats having a cow ! Getting it done fast is the key and not having any problems along the way .. Hey Im detains the truck again asshats lol !






Bought new Battery quick disconnect terminals and installed the Negative side .. Looks a lot better than the previous but havent yet decided on a Disconnect set up for the parasitic battery drain , short or Whats ever it is .. Battery test good and fuse for the radio still removed . Reviews on battery disconnects are not good especially remote key fob types …

All Soaking in liquid wrench today ! It’s too late to start tonight and rain everyday stinks … last 3 days temperatures have been decent to do the work yet waiting for the parts and tools may have made me miss a temperature window .. I’ll see when tomorrow gets here lol. In the mean time the 10 is my wheels !

Upper ball joint , new hub and disc pads on driver side completed .

Alright I know I have to reattach he brake hose brakes and grease the ball joint ..

No help coils needed on this side was sweating that .. the angle of the son and my old eyeballs made it impossible to see the slider bolts and played extremely careful and slow .. almost they went in crooked but felt it and pulled back giggled the caliper and then slow tightened and bingo got im in , straight and torqued .. Right side done and to damn hot to do the left side now ..
was seen by 2 HOA no longer BOD members and they better not play snitchers or I will return the favor on one of them and the other is no longer a home owner ( Renter now )…

Wheel cleaning and bolt it back on and test drive lol ..

Looks like you covered it all!! If all else fails get a rope hahahaha

Wifey said:

Looks like you covered it all!! If all else fails get a rope hahahaha

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Already have that covered hahahaha … This is my town !

Wifey said:

Looks like you covered it all!! If all else fails get a rope hahahaha

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Except the passenger side,, which I just wasted a couple hours in the hell hole heat , humidity and now rain Gain ….
Appears can’t do the hub since the bolt is so tight it broke my 1/2 drive socks and trying my Torque wrench with a floor jack Handle for leverage wouldn’t budge the bolt …
The upper ball joint bolt would just spin and not come off ..
At least the caliper pins held up taking off and putting back on .. put it all back together until I can figure a way to remove the ball joint bolt and the hub bolt .. Im not having fun as it should have been done damn it lol .
I also removed the cotter pin and said screw it .. if the bolt won’t come off then who needs a cotter pin lol