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My QC lowering kit did not have adjustable shocks. Make sure you torque the rear U-bolts to at least 130 ft lbs. I initially tightened mine using a pneumatic impact wrench and they were damn near finger tight within a month. I used thread locker the second time. Also, get it realigned.

4,900 miles now. Price reduced to $32,900.

Looks good. No noticable performance increase. Did not connect the center hood scoop. Blocked that inlet on the Volant off. Hood scoop was meant to blow cool air thru the engine compartment.

Whatever works for you is always the best way. Keep the shiny side up.

Then you obviously don't know the difference between a random orbital polisher and a buffer. If you want swirls on black paint, polish and wax it by hand and you'll get 'em. If you use modern technology, swirls will be gone. And it takes a hell of a lot less time.

Just polished and waxed my black truck this past weekend. Black is swirl city. The only way to reduce swirls is to use a Porter Cable random orbital polisher. Buy a velcro pad that attaches to the polisher and velcro-backed foam pads from Classic Motoring Accessories. www.properautocare.com...

Just ordered an '07 C-6 Vette. $47K and change out the door. Same color combo as the SRT-10. Black with ebony/cashmere 2-tone seats and interior.

There's a black '05 QC for sale on this site. Weeee'llllll Deeeaaalll, too. Make me a reasonable offer.

Posted this earlier. On a whim, and about a month after installing Boomer's kit, I thought I'd better check the u-bolts. Finger tight. Crikey. Put thread locker on each one and torqued them to 130 lbs. The thought of those coming loose at 80mph is pretty effin scarey.

Selling my '05 SRT-10 QC. Black with silver racing stripes. Boomer's lowering kit, Volant intake and Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, soft tonneau that fits under the wing. Never raced. Never abused. 4,675 miles. $34,900 OBO. If interested, email me for pics. [email protected]

Selling my '05 SRT-10 QC. Black with silver racing stripes. Boomer's lowering kit, Volant intake and Magnaflow cat-back exhaust. Never raced. Never abused. 4,675 miles. $34,900 OBO. If interested, email me for pics. [email protected]

Patrick's instructions really helped. Especially with the front. I used a pneumatic die grinder with a 3/8" cylindrical-shaped cutting tool from my Dremel kit. Routed out about 3/16" which was plenty for alignment purposes.

Same here. :(

Try using a plastic scraper and saturate the area with mineral spirits. Once the spirits have had a chance to soak in, gently use the scraper on the spots. Once the paint is off, buff the areas. Use a small nail (brad) on the emblem to gently dig out the paint residue.

Same here. Paid a little extra because it was so badly out of alignment. After 3,000 miles, no noticible tire wear.

You have a PM.

Boomer's lowering kit is great. Easy DIY as well. One piece of advise...when you install the rear kit, tighten the shit out of the u-bolt nuts. Between 120-150 ft lbs. Originally, I used an impact wrench to tighten and didn't torque them. Last week I went back in to check the nuts and found...

The model designation will be on the front of the unit. I have the RB4 and the Mopar iPod integration kit that is now useless. Still in the box. Anybody want to buy it? I'm not going to fork out more $$ for an RB1.

Thanks for the pic info. If I can't figure it out, and if you don't mind, I'll send them to you and let you post them. The stripes are not cut to length, but that is no biggie. The hood stripes go nicely around the scoop. No notching required. Put the hood stripes on first and use the...