'04 red rc s/c

71dusterjon

71dusterjon

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May 23, 2009
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Location
Fountain Hill, AZ
Well after much frustration I need to sell my truck. I bought the truck with 26,000mi and it now had 37,000 mi. Here is what the truck came with when i first got it:
-xmetal shifter
-paxton supercharger
-belanger headers
-4.10 gear *Stock*
-pioneer avic-z2 double din (has xm radio, bluetooth, ipod, cd changer, aftermarket amp, back up camera)
-redone the seats in suede
-magnaflow exhaust
-secondary cat delete
-high flow cats

Here are the things i did while i've had the truck:
-routed cables for ipod to armrest
-vibration damper on transmission (w/o will cause rear seal to leak)
-new trans beaings
-new bronze shifter fork pads
-new billet syncro keys for 3/4
-painted the wheels
-new red top optima battery
-relocated battery to bed of truck
-painted intake/valve covers and headers
-painted interior piece red
-new oil cooler lines
-new *screamin demon coils*
-new ngk zfr6f-11 spark plugs
-new magnecor 8.5mm spark plug wires
-crankcase vent into exhaust
-4pt harnesses
-painted headlights, door handles, and mirrors
-ebc rotors and pads (at 30,000mi)
-had dc performance retune the truck because if was running too rich

Here is what is wrong with the truck:
-I parked the truck for a month to change oil cooler lines, paint the valve covers, intake and headers plus install a crankcase vent into the exhaust. When i started the truck up i got a knocking sound. I have only driven the truck about 5 miles ( that was to gas station and back to fill up plus got towed to my shop). I replace the coils, wires, and plugs to see if this would get rid of the knock, but it didn't. I also did a compression test:
1-115 2-115
3-110 4-145
5-100 6-145
7-80 8-65
9-45 10-80

I believe that the compression has always been low since i got the truck. I'm having the engine oil tested this week to see what exactly is going on. The engine will more than likely need to be pulled and rebuilt. The oil pressure is about 25lb at idle but should be close to 70lb.

The only damage to the truck was when i was going around a corner and the back end got loose causing me to tap a guard rail. The parts that had to be replaced were the driver side fender, driver side headlight, and bumper. I have pictures if you want.

I'm asking $20,000 and the truck will have to be towed because the engine isn't running correctly. Please pm if you have any questions or want more pictures.
 

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Best of luck selling the truck, man.:rock:

I must admit, this is the first time I've seen the rear cylinders go away on one of these engines. It would be interesting to see if the skirts on those pistons are scuffed like those pulled from Tinygiant's engine. As you say, the engine will need to be rebuilt, but will be great for someone once done.

.
 
Good luck with the sale. But just curious, if you're running a Paxton, why would you have DC tune it to not run rich? You can never be too safe, I would have left it rich. May have contributed to your problem, but not sure.
 
dc performance did all the work before i got the truck. when i got the truck it would fall on its face after 4000rpm. I brought it to them to see what was wrong and it was running too rich. too much fuel was being dumped in at 4000rpm so they had to tink with the regulator and remap the engine. i am running rich as i make peak power so that the engine doesn't hurt itself.
 
Sorry to see this:( You may have better luck parting some stuff out.:dontknow:

I gotta say your wheels are very unique and look BAD ARSS!!!:rock: :rock:
 
71dusterjon said:
Well after much frustration I need to sell my truck. I bought the truck with 26,000mi and it now had 37,000 mi. Here is what the truck came with when i first got it:
-xmetal shifter
-paxton supercharger
-belanger headers
-4.10 gear *Stock*
-pioneer avic-z2 double din (has xm radio, bluetooth, ipod, cd changer, aftermarket amp, back up camera)
-redone the seats in suede
-magnaflow exhaust
-secondary cat delete
-high flow cats

Here are the things i did while i've had the truck:
-routed cables for ipod to armrest
-vibration damper on transmission (w/o will cause rear seal to leak)
-new trans beaings
-new bronze shifter fork pads
-new billet syncro keys for 3/4
-painted the wheels
-new red top optima battery
-relocated battery to bed of truck
-painted intake/valve covers and headers
-painted interior piece red
-new oil cooler lines
-new *screamin demon coils*
-new ngk zfr6f-11 spark plugs
-new magnecor 8.5mm spark plug wires
-crankcase vent into exhaust
-4pt harnesses
-painted headlights, door handles, and mirrors
-ebc rotors and pads (at 30,000mi)
-had dc performance retune the truck because if was running too rich

Here is what is wrong with the truck:
-I parked the truck for a month to change oil cooler lines, paint the valve covers, intake and headers plus install a crankcase vent into the exhaust. When i started the truck up i got a knocking sound. I have only driven the truck about 5 miles ( that was to gas station and back to fill up plus got towed to my shop). I replace the coils, wires, and plugs to see if this would get rid of the knock, but it didn't. I also did a compression test:
1-115 2-115
3-110 4-145
5-100 6-145
7-80 8-65
9-45 10-80

I believe that the compression has always been low since i got the truck. I'm having the engine oil tested this week to see what exactly is going on. The engine will more than likely need to be pulled and rebuilt. The oil pressure is about 25lb at idle but should be close to 70lb.

The only damage to the truck was when i was going around a corner and the back end got loose causing me to tap a guard rail. The parts that had to be replaced were the driver side fender, driver side headlight, and bumper. I have pictures if you want.

I'm asking $20,000 and the truck will have to be towed because the engine isn't running correctly. Please pm if you have any questions or want more pictures.
Click to expand...
pretty much a waste of time to do an oil test,sounds like your oil pump went bad like mine did,you only have two cylinders that are close to normal compression.

engine build is gonna cost bout 12k plus another 1200.00 for a new oil pump,1600.00 for removal and install of the engine,also with the oil pressure low it is most likely that the paxton will have to be rebuilt since it runs off the engine oil,that will cost another 750.00

so it is going to cost about 15k to get this truck fixed right

you might want to part it out instead


goodluck
 
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i was not expecting 15k to get this truck running right and id rather sell the truck as a whole than parting it out.

I'm assuming you're going at a shop rate if someone had stinker or someone else rebuild this motor?
 
5k was what i was thinking about if i do all the work except any machine work depending on what is needed.

Depending on if a member here wants to buy the truck soon, i may wait till summer time when i have some free time from school to rebuild the motor.
 
71dusterjon said:
5k was what i was thinking about if i do all the work except any machine work depending on what is needed.

Depending on if a member here wants to buy the truck soon, i may wait till summer time when i have some free time from school to rebuild the motor.
Click to expand...

yeah 5k if you send it out to arrow and reinstall yourself. I would get stinkers pistons and rods..Of course Finding out what went wrong before you send it out
would be great. Would be great if just the piston ring lands have broken apart and not an oil pump failure.
 
71dusterjon said:
i was not expecting 15k to get this truck running right and id rather sell the truck as a whole than parting it out.

I'm assuming you're going at a shop rate if someone had stinker or someone else rebuild this motor?
Click to expand...
well parts alone are 4k,machine shop not included,even stock parts are expensive.

5 k to rebuild this engine and install it might be your price but ,just about anyone else is going to have to have someone else do the work.

putting a paxton back on a stock engine doesn't make any sense,not rebuilding the paxton after basically 8 pistons failed and you admitted to low oil pressure doesnt make any sense as well.

atleast sell the paxton to recoup some of the money and many other aftermarket parts you have on the truck
 
FerrariTruck said:
yeah 5k if you send it out to arrow and reinstall yourself. I would get stinkers pistons and rods..Of course Finding out what went wrong before you send it out
would be great. Would be great if just the piston ring lands have broken apart and not an oil pump failure.
Click to expand...
uh you are not gonna send it to arrow and get it rebuilt for 5k...they have done work for me i assure you will not get a motor built from arrow for 5k;)
 
like i said, depending on a member here who has expressed interest in the truck i'll wait to see what they do before i pull motor and tear into it.
 
K1 rods< IF, I can get them and thats a huge if right now, I am lucky enough to grab two sets here lately, but they are sold, but they run close to $775

rod and main bearings around the $450 or more mark depending

pistons to fit the K1 rods, around the $1450 mark, with rings , pins so on

gaskets another $440

honing out the cylinders anywhere from $500-$800 depending on who does it

cleaning and checking the crank $800 or so

new oil pump from dodge $1000 or one from arrow $650

if you do the work yourself, you can get out decent,

I keep hearing from alot of folks that my bottom end only price of 10k is high, but it will be done correctly

but arrow, eh , dont think your gonna get much for 5k

best thing is to make a desicion and stick to it, you may pull it apart and nothing much be wrong, but while y our in there it might as well be done deal and get it over with

I tried to get a set of oem rod bearings today and was told they were only available thru dodge, so keep that in mind also
 
Clint is very close on his prices. If you have a good builder do the work on this engine and if you use high quality parts as you should, his prices are very close. On the other hand you can decide to sell the Paxton and go back to stock and get out much cheaper...but if you want to have forced induction, the route recommended by Clint is the way to go.

Tony may be able to find good less expensive parts and if you do the work you might get out for 8 to 10k, if you are not going to have FI. Or a couple of thousand less if you do the work your self and take it back to stock.

Sorry about this outcome...but when we run hard, and install FI on stock internals this is the risk we take...many of us have been down this road, its not fun, but it is the cost of balls to the wall engines.

Think about where you want to be, consider the cost of that alternative and see if you can afford that place.

We will be here to help regardless of your decision.
 
Last edited:
You told her:eek: :eek:

Christine still asks...I just start talking about future investments in the CTS V and that distracts her :rock:
 
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