10 yrs of rust…………..

[NukeGM/Ford]

is a bitch to pound loose when switching rear brake rotors…….. still not budging after 2 hrs of soaking with PB Blaster and hitting with a alb sledge….. trying not to muff up the wheel studs…… yes studs are cheap but they are a pain to install and my budget is maxed already between Scott, Tony and Justin……….

 

[VENOMOUS1 RACING]

is a bitch to pound loose when switching rear brake rotors…….. still not budging after 2 hrs of soaking with PB Blaster and hitting with a alb sledge….. trying not to muff up the wheel studs…… yes studs are cheap but they are a pain to install and my budget is maxed already between Scott, Tony and Justin……….

Ckean area around where rotor goes over hub. Couple love taps and voila
It's corroded around that area preventing removal bud.

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

used a fine pick edge to scrape that out, couple of spots looked like WELDS until i scraped them…….. when i say 10 years of rust, i mean 10 years of 5 miles from the Atlantic Ocean rust…………………yuck.

good thing its yella, doesn't rust as fast as the other colors…………..

 

[SRT2SLOW]

You have to disengage the emergency brakes before you change the rotors there buddy

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

funny guy, brakes not on, calipers sitting on top of leaf springs, still not coming off, not even budging, never had them this bad before…….. and i've worked on OE equipped 40 year old mopars before

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

srt2slow, you made me think, i didn't put on the e-brake so when i took the calipers off i didn't bother thinking about why the brake didn't come off with the caliper, looking at the back side of the rotor i see its hooked into something but doesn't look like its the rotor…….. what does the brake actually go to since its not the calipers??

my replacement rotors don't have any place for this hook to go…..

also, when taking off the calipers, the rear pads had a deep groove run into the rotors, had to use a hammer to get the caliper past the groove on the outside edge of the rotors. is there gonna be a groove of some kind on the inside also??

worked on rusted parts before, changed pads/drums before, never changed rotors before……..

wish bench manuals didn't cost 500 bucks for this thing, used to using Haynes/Chilton manuals

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

i suppose there is some special damn tool i have to go get to get this spring hook out of this hole???

still don't understand what this is connected to, guess all will be reveiled when i get it off, one way or another, i do have a die grinder…………….:chain:

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

pass had a simple 2 eared clip holding the line, came out, unhooked very easily. rotor still not budging

drivers side has a metal MULTI eared clip holding the line, of course its on the bottom of the axle so its very hard to get my big a$$ head in there to see whats going on…………….

oh yeah, pass rotor STILL not budging, why did i think yellow calipers and drilled/slotted rotors would look good??? IDIOT!!!!!

 

[SRT2SLOW]

Shouldn't be that hard. There are little retainers on the studs . Did you remove those? Take a pic. Your definitely doing something wrong

 

[NukeGM/Ford]

wasn't rust, was groove worn into hub from E brake, not by me……….

the bolt method in the other thread worked great with a minor change

pics later, time to wear in these drilled/slotted rotors and painted calipers:burnout: