170 stat

The flash will activate the fan sooner. But there is nothing wrong with water and oil temps in the low 200's. This engine is designed to run at that temperature and with no ill effects.

If you are pushing the engine...racing...the flash will activate the fan sooner and keep temps 20-30 degrees lower. The advantage is that the pcm will not pull timing to protect from detonation.

Normal operating temps of 210-220 are not a problem.
 
With the fan on all the time, does it take away HP due to it being hydraulic?

I know that if you drive it hard it's going to come on..... just a thought.
 
bigike said:
With the fan on all the time, does it take away HP due to it being hydraulic?

I know that if you drive it hard it's going to come on..... just a thought.
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Of course it does. Everything does by the way, even turning on the headlights!
 
O yeah, I'm (was) a generator mechanic. Electrical load is no different then mechanical load or Hydraulic load.

The question is what energy use's the least load
 
bigike said:
The question is what energy use's the least load
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Assuming you mean an electric fan vs a hydraulic fan? Electric energy is generally more efficient .
 
Prof said:
Sexual energy...creates no load in my case...
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That would be A.M.Y. injection then.
 
tn big jeff said:
replaced stat with 170 but it still runs 200-210 did i do something wrong or is this normal. thanks
Click to expand...

You did nothing wrong. A lower temp stat only lengthens the amount of time it takes for your engine to reach operating temperature. Changing the fan duty cycle will lessen the life of your power steering pump.
 
bigike said:
But would our electrical system handle a fan big enough to support the heat load?
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Yup derale makes a 4400 cfm dual fan which is on my next list, if I am not mistaken ours is only rated to 3000cfm or less I think. But stinker has it almost the cheapest (he is only off by 5 bucks so my money goes to him anyway) and it gets rid of one of the oil line issues and about 25 to 30 lbs
 
DevilDawg3097 said:
Yup derale makes a 4400 cfm dual fan which is on my next list, if I am not mistaken ours is only rated to 3000cfm or less I think. But stinker has it almost the cheapest (he is only off by 5 bucks so my money goes to him anyway) and it gets rid of one of the oil line issues and about 25 to 30 lbs
Click to expand...

is it a pusher or puller?????

ya got a model number?
 
Quote from stinker "ok , these are the ones I can get you a good deal on, but the 16927 is listed as a pusher fan but also look at the dual tornado, they are push pull and the 16824 is about the right size, but please do ssome measuring to make sure of the fits see which one will work for ya ",

http://www.derale.com/dual-rad-fan.html

16927 is what I am going to go with. After more researching it can be made a push or pull and my bad 4000 cfm.
 
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I have the 170 stat and I changed my hydraulic fan cycle to come on high at 176 and low at 174 and then turn off at 172. My temperature stays very steady now. When the fan is in high speed mode, it is not too noisy as others have indicated. Maybe they changed it for '06? My power steering works fine, so I don't think I have a pump issue. It definitely is coming on high as it spins much faster and is a bit louder, but you really can barely hear it from the cab.

Next, I increased my timing 4 degrees at wot and up to 12 degrees in some parts of the timing curve and up to 20 in the low-load, low-rpm ranges where I believe that Dodge has retarded the timing to reduce NOx formation so the trucks will pass the EPA city cycle emissions test. I also moved the timing retard vs temperature curve to start kicking in around 180 degrees and get more agressive at 200. My truck runs so much stronger and never has a hint of detonation. Our 93 here in DFW is kinda crappy for 93 (it really acts more like 91 or 92), and I have yet to have a hint of rattle even in the worst heat of the day.

I'll be pulling a 3000 lb trailer today, so I'll see if it pings under continuous load. I doubt it will. The factory tune would rattle with 91 octane gas with the engine hot, and the air cold and dense, such as at night after a cold front has just come in.
 
WOT said:
I have the 170 stat and I changed my hydraulic fan cycle to come on high at 176 and low at 174 and then turn off at 172. My temperature stays very steady now. When the fan is in high speed mode, it is not too noisy as others have indicated. Maybe they changed it for '06? My power steering works fine, so I don't think I have a pump issue. It definitely is coming on high as it spins much faster and is a bit louder, but you really can barely hear it from the cab.

Next, I increased my timing 4 degrees at wot and up to 12 degrees in some parts of the timing curve and up to 20 in the low-load, low-rpm ranges where I believe that Dodge has retarded the timing to reduce NOx formation so the trucks will pass the EPA city cycle emissions test. I also moved the timing retard vs temperature curve to start kicking in around 180 degrees and get more agressive at 200. My truck runs so much stronger and never has a hint of detonation. Our 93 here in DFW is kinda crappy for 93 (it really acts more like 91 or 92), and I have yet to have a hint of rattle even in the worst heat of the day.

I'll be pulling a 3000 lb trailer today, so I'll see if it pings under continuous load. I doubt it will. The factory tune would rattle with 91 octane gas with the engine hot, and the air cold and dense, such as at night after a cold front has just come in.
Click to expand...

Very clear, accurate and comprehensive over view of the cpm/thermostat issue. IMO :D
 
Thanks, however I might have to retract my statement on the high/low speed settings. It appears that the SCT software has these settings, but like many of the other values availble to tweak in the software (such as the transmission parameters) it looks like you can change them, but they might not do anything.

There are two sections where you can adjust the fan temps. I believe that the section that is intuitively obvious (low speed fan on temp, high speed fan on temp, fan off temp, etc) is really for trucks with electric fans, such as the hemis, etc. I think that the section that actually changes the fan behvior for the hydraulic fan is the target coolant temp and fan duty cycle section. This area seems effect changes in the hydrualic fan behavior. Either way, I have mine set to come on at around 174, and it made a huge difference.
 
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