170* Thermostat Overheating Problem

greatone61

greatone61

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Hey fellas,

Well today I installed the DC Stage 2, 170 T-stat, and K&N Intake. But I got a big problem!!:dontknow: Installed the T-stat by draining coolant, unclamped radiator hose, took off housing, placed T-stat exactly how the old one was, re-installed housing, re-installed radiator hose, put in new coolant. Turned on truck, opened bleeder valve, let coolant seep, closed it up, let the truck run. Truck comes to operating temp and keeps on going to about 230 and won't come down!!! I reopen bleeder valve and the coolant sort of just keeps squirting out, no consistant flow. Does that mean there is air still in the system and its causing the truck to overheat? Somebody please help, I need to take this baby for a spin before I die in anticipation!!!!!!!!!!!:toilet:
 
Sounds like you have an air bubble in the water pump, pump is just sucking air and not circulating any coolant. Maybe try bleeding with the engine off?
 
RatMotor said:
Sounds like you have an air bubble in the water pump, pump is just sucking air and not circulating any coolant. Maybe try bleeding with the engine off?
Click to expand...

So do I just open the same bleeder valve when the truck off? And then? Thanks for the help.:)
 
Not sure how it works on these trucks, maybe someone can chime in, but on the BMWs I work on, I open the bleeder then start adding coolant to the rad cap or overflow bottle until bubbles stop coming out of the bleeder.
 
i didnt have this problem, but I also didnt take the hose off. I've never heard of a situation where the pump is pumping air, as it get's fed from the lower radiator hose. you'd have to have an empty radiator for that to happen.

maybe it's just a faulty thermostat?
 
RatMotor said:
Not sure how it works on these trucks, maybe someone can chime in, but on the BMWs I work on, I open the bleeder then start adding coolant to the rad cap or overflow bottle until bubbles stop coming out of the bleeder.
Click to expand...

That's how I did mine, seemed to work OK...
 
Nowwhat said:
Did you replace the gasket as well and would that affect anything...?
Click to expand...

Actually that was a weird thing, when I took it off I didn't see a gasket that I'm accustomed to seeing. But I did see something around the housing that I figured was the gasket. But everything was put back in place and tightened.
 
greatone61 said:
Actually that was a weird thing, when I took it off I didn't see a gasket that I'm accustomed to seeing. But I did see something around the housing that I figured was the gasket. But everything was put back in place and tightened.
Click to expand...

You did OK there, it's a reusable o-ring gasket.
 
Ok I tried bleeding it again, same result WTF!!!!!!!!! Now this is starting to annoy me!
 
You probably ain't gonna like this, as I know that '4th' bolt is a PITA, but if it were me, I'd put the stock T-Stat back in and see what happens.

If all is good with the stocker, then you probably have a bad stat.

Sucks,,, I know. It's all part of the game of replacing perfectly good parts, just cuz we wanna go faster. Sometimes you have to take 3 steps back just to get one step forward...:dontknow: :p
 
My truck is doing the very exact thing. I haven't taken a look at it yet, but I think my thermo is sticking......what does everyones truck usually run??? with a paxton??? My truck usually is around 200, but it has been getting around 215-230 lately......I did have an issue with the heater hose hitting the headers and burning a hole in it, but I just bypassed the whole heater core all together. But now the damn radio is broke...checked everything. Can't even get the CD to eject....it is like it has no power what so ever...Just my luck I guess.
 
I turned on the heater, turned the temp all the way to hot yet nothing, not even warm air.....
 
greatone61 said:
I turned on the heater, turned the temp all the way to hot yet nothing, not even warm air.....
Click to expand...
So that means your heater core is NOT getting any flow. So, either the water pump ain't pumpin', or the Stat ain't opening.:(
 
Sounds like a stat problem....did you make sure its full of fluid and all the air is out? Out T-stats are semi-open are not completely sealed (if you ever looked at one), I would check to make sure all the air is out of the system...crack the bleeder as the truck is running and make sure all the air is out of it. If not, you might have to get another t-stat..sorry man :(

-Red
 
Even if the stat weren't opening, the heater core should still get coolant flow. Kind of an outside chance, but did you spill coolant on the belt, so its slipping on the waterpump pulley? No chance the stat is in backwards? How long did you let it run with the bleeder open? Let her run for a while and see if will eventually push all the air out and get a constant stream of coolant. Failing that, I'd drain the cooling system again and refill - I still think there's an air bubble stuck in there. Good luck man.
 
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Alright I'm gonna redo this in the morning, is there a way I can tell if the t-stat is sticking once I take it out? Thanks for all your guys help man, I got all this installed but can't drive it....it sucks!
 
greatone61 said:
Alright I'm gonna redo this in the morning, is there a way I can tell if the t-stat is sticking once I take it out? Thanks for all your guys help man, I got all this installed but can't drive it....it sucks!
Click to expand...

Supposedly you can put it in a pan of water on the stove and turn the heat up, when the water temp gets to 170 ish it should open. I've never tried it, but it stands to reason that it would work.
 
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