4 link rear

Stanimal

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im thinking of building a 4 link for the rear of the srt. i know all of the geometry factors, what i do not know is spring rates. i kind of understand them, however havee absolutely no idea of where to start with as far as what springs to run. if anyone knows anything about springs, please feel free to chime in. thanks
 
Stanimal said:
im thinking of building a 4 link for the rear of the srt. i know all of the geometry factors, what i do not know is spring rates. i kind of understand them, however havee absolutely no idea of where to start with as far as what springs to run. if anyone knows anything about springs, please feel free to chime in. thanks


screw the springs run air bags, and a ladder bar system may be a simpler solution
 
A four link will require, moving the fuel tank, well any suspension mod will require that, then a four link is not the best judgement for the street.

a ladder bar system is what I am planning for this winter, with a wishbone locater, and air bags with an adjustable shock set up.
 
give me a buzz sometime tomorrow stink. id like to hear your ideas on this matter. same area code, the last 7 are 310 6465. had to change the number again :D
 
Check these guys out. I am seriously considering this kit. I am waiting on wholesale pricing though. Maybe we can get together on a GB.
 
i may just do that. im weird tho, i enjoy building things myself. i get great satisfaction from it. but i may look further into this. thankyou
 
The rear suspension by air ride technologies will and should work, BUT, its not adjustable, and may not be strong enough for a launch with slicks with our trucks, but for looks and everyday driving should be fine.
 
Stinker said:
A four link will require, moving the fuel tank, well any suspension mod will require that, then a four link is not the best judgement for the street.

a ladder bar system is what I am planning for this winter, with a wishbone locater, and air bags with an adjustable shock set up.
Oh No, does this mean includemeout is a redneck too. All I ever hear about is ladder bar/lift bar suspension :D :D :D :rock:

Well along with heavy flywheels and the watts linkage.................... ;)
 
Wifey said:
Oh No, does this mean includemeout is a redneck too. All I ever hear about is ladder bar/lift bar suspension :D :D :D :rock:

Well along with heavy flywheels and the watts linkage.................... ;)


yes it does:p

ask gommer if he dont think a ladder bar will be more feasable for the street as well as easier to install.

but yep plan to remove the stock fuel tank, install a aluminum tank where the spare is , then do a ladder bar system , using a wishbone locater, with an airbag suspension and rebound/compression adjustable shocks.
 
A good 4 link is much better than a ladder bar system.

Sorry Stinker, just a fact of life.

The 4 link adjustability is superior to any other system out there.
 
Stinker said:
yes it does:p

ask gommer if he dont think a ladder bar will be more feasable for the street as well as easier to install.

but yep plan to remove the stock fuel tank, install a aluminum tank where the spare is , then do a ladder bar system , using a wishbone locater, with an airbag suspension and rebound/compression adjustable shocks.

Gomer sez he don't need to remove the stock tank. He jis needs a new lower spring mounting plate to attach the lift bar to. He also needs a frame section from a wreck to get the radius on the bends right so he can make the front part that clamps onto the frame.

See Gomer's ladder bar diagram (front mounting position is right near center of gravity of truck to achieve proper weight transfer) - but he won't give up his formula. Diagram is Very Crude, like Gomer, but it will work. ;) you just gotta use your imagination some. Says he used to do this as a kid shortly after they invented the model T Ford :eek: ;) ;) when they started splittin wishbones ........

There is a bolt on cross member at the front bracket (not shown) that has a drive shaft loop that can be incorporated.

Add a watts linkage .......... (Picture #2) for all your sway control needs, which can also be clamped on requiring no welding or modification. The mounting point would be a steel ring between the cover plate (for the pivot) and the rear end housing. The frame brackets could be made the same way to clamp on and to bolt a cross member in. Nothing would have to be removed to do this. Jiz a little noggeratin with a tape measure. Of course if you want it permanent you can always weld it in.

Now if you really want to add the final touch - frame brackets (spring perch) can be fabbed (similar to the front pieces) behind the rear axle and can incorporate a bolt in cross member between the perches for strength. The spring mounting plate (lower) can be extended to make a coil spring mount.

There you have it. You can mount your shocks have coils springs the best sway control you can get and a leading arm/lift bar/ladder bar type suspension.

Perfect. Waa Laaa :rock: :rock: :rock: He says it probably won't work though just like heavy fly wheels and wings don't for that matter ................. ;) ;) ;) After all he jsut a ignurent redneck that don't know shit :eek:
 
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Silverback said:
A good 4 link is much better than a ladder bar system.

Sorry Stinker, just a fact of life.

The 4 link adjustability is superior to any other system out there.


I agree a four link is tons better, but I am looking more at driving more on the street than on the track, she want see a ton of track time, and the four link is tons more work to fab up and install.

And cool on the Pics Wifey, its a tad differnt than my thoughts.

For on , the tank is MOVING!LOLOLL dang that big godawful thing:D
plus with a different tank I can move the pump intothe tank for quietness and also it will solve my slosh problem when getin low on fuel;)

but what I am looking at is doing an adjustable ladder system that welds onto the axle tube, gettin completely rid of the springs, using the cross bar that is allready in the truck, an making an adjustable mount at the front of the ladder bars.
then using air bags for suspension to ease the ride, and a wishbone off the top of the oem tube to the axle for centering, then adjustable shocks.

on the other hand, ride technologies has a bolt in four link that would work, only problem is it is $1500 and the link bars are too small and has no adjustability, so after you get new bars, end links, and mke it adjustable, it becomes outragous on the $ figure

I mainly jsut wonder if the engineers out there, gommer, and bannana, think its a decent deal?
Not looking for the "best" suspension for the track, but more for street/track mostly street, and for a tad of show:D
 
Well Stink , just flip a 1960 thru 1969 Chebby upside down and look at the rear suspention , kinda the same thing if ya use the coil spring option (with the leaf springs removed :D ) and it can be fully adjustable.
 
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Wifey said:
Well Stink , just flip a 1960 thru 1969 Chebby upside down and look at the rear suspention , kinda the same thing if ya use the coil spring option (with the leaf springs removed :D ) and it can be fully adjustable.


I know, been looking at my 69 stepside sittin right outside:D
 
Stinker said:
I know, been looking at my 69 stepside sittin right outside:D

Dam Rednecks anyhow, funny how ya'all think nearon the same:rock: :D
 
4-link has some great advantages, traction, control, and many others. When designing a good 4-link system axle point, control arms, antisquat, and any other calculation need to be taken into consideration. The way axles twist under travel, and how pinion relation(s) are all key in making something *work and work well. FstJack has a well designed 4-link rear setup...

Here is a 4-link I built on the crawler...
 

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