Amp bypass for stereo

[VIPR PWR]

I installed it. It was a whirlwind week of new carpet, sound deadening, the newer seats & console, Grant wheel, backup cam and power tailgate lock.
Only two issues I ran into were figuring out what wire and where to cut it to enable steering wheel controls and setting up the camera. Could not for the life of me find a reverse wire that worked to switch it over. I instead opted to have cam on demand, this allows me to look behind me whenever I want with the push of a button. This is especially nice for long distance towing and I wanna check on the hitch & trailer (mainly for the boat).
Camera plugs right in once you route the cable up behind the dash. There are 2 MiniSD card slots in it, only comes with the one for the their native nav app (which isn't bad, I use it most times, especially if I'm somewhere without cell signal). The other slot is empty and you have to supply your own if you want to put music or videos, etc on it. It is an Android OS so it works just like any Android phone or tablet. For the most part you can customize it however you like. I park close enough to the house that it picks up the WiFi signal and updates the apps. I have loved this thing (even with the initial expense, though I bought it on Amazon and had a bunch of gift cards that came in handy lol) since I put it in. Insane Audio offered me a significant discount on a trade-in for the newer model but honestly I can't justify the expense for a slightly faster processor and a mm or 2 of screen lol. Here is the nav screen, I chose the tank but I think you can install custom icons if you wish (I had the ass end of an SRT-10 on my old TomTom). I have the left steering wheel button (the middle between track up & down) set to cycle through modes, so it goes from radio to bluetooth music to SD music player to nav.

View attachment 65202

it’s sounding better and better to me ! Once I find the short in my system , which I’m thinking is in the connection from the body thru the drivers door to the speaker .. at least that is what I have been looking to do after finding those ares are problematic on Dodge rams for wires breaking ‍ . Hoping it’s not caused by the factory AMP !
Not sure I would bother with cameras , but another SD card would work fine . Your system appears to have a lot more capability than the factory one .
The install is more than clean enough to look factory !
I know over the years that systems people were installing had no way to connect the steering wheel controls and had to usually modify or by a modified bezel . Exactly what wire did you finally determine was the proper one for the steering wheel connection ?

Yes ,the price is up there but appears to me to be the best upgrade and least modification to make .. Do you have any of those gift cards you want to gift to a charity

 

[HemiLonestar]

LOL....one of my criteria (along with plug & play, camera capable, nav and fittting properly in the stock bezel) is that it had to work with the OEM Infinity system since that's what I have. If memory serves, I traced the wire directly from the switches through the clockspring into the column. That wire goes to the cluster; they routed everything those years pretty much through the cluster smh. Can't just tap it either, I tried that and got a 'no bus' on the cluster. Has to be cut, then it works. One good thing I haven't really mentioned is Insane's customer service. Pre-pandemic they were very good at responding to email requests for help and worked with you until there was resolution. Unfortunately they hadn't run into anyone trying to enable the steering wheel controls on a Jeep lol. Even then, they dug and found an old forum post from their site regarding the install in a 2003 WJ; same basic wiring setup. That's what got me to success.
Hopefully you don't have to replace the amp, because that's a royal pain in the ass unless you're trying to work on the recirc door solenoid....which is BEHIND the amp so it's an even bigger pain.

 

[VIPR PWR]

LOL....one of my criteria (along with plug & play, camera capable, nav and fittting properly in the stock bezel) is that it had to work with the OEM Infinity system since that's what I have. If memory serves, I traced the wire directly from the switches through the clockspring into the column. That wire goes to the cluster; they routed everything those years pretty much through the cluster smh. Can't just tap it either, I tried that and got a 'no bus' on the cluster. Has to be cut, then it works. One good thing I haven't really mentioned is Insane's customer service. Pre-pandemic they were very good at responding to email requests for help and worked with you until there was resolution. Unfortunately they hadn't run into anyone trying to enable the steering wheel controls on a Jeep lol. Even then, they dug and found an old forum post from their site regarding the install in a 2003 WJ; same basic wiring setup. That's what got me to success.
Hopefully you don't have to replace the amp, because that's a royal pain in the ass unless you're trying to work on the recirc door solenoid....which is BEHIND the amp so it's an even bigger pain.

Welll , the recirculating door broke a long time ago ,, the door itself hahaha hmm 2 birds with one stone comes to mind if the app is the problem . I’m still going to check the door wires aa when I get the chance and energy to see if their is a break .. the drivers door speaker was doing the on and off and crackling prior to getting the drain on my battery .. I tracked which fuse to pull and have no radio at the moment . Everything else appear to be operating fine . I’ll have to decide whether or not it really matters using the steering wheel controls but would when or if the time comes .

 

[HemiLonestar]

Get the Dorman door (p/n 902325) with the metal end piece. Replacing the door is fairly easy, especially if you have small hands (I unfortunately don't lol) because you can go straight up through where the fan is. Getting to that solenoid behind the amp is the mofo. FYI there is a hidden bolt on the back side of that friggin thing that will drive you insane.

 

[VIPR PWR]

Get the Dorman door (p/n 902325) with the metal end piece. replacing the door is fairly easy, especially if you have small hands (I unfortunately don't lol) because you can go straight up through where the fan is. Getting to that solenoid behind the amp is the mofo. FYI there is a hidden bolt on the back side of that friggin thing that will drive you insane.

Perfect ,, not sure if my hands a small enough hahaha ..Thanks, looks like exact looking part I need. I have the old one removed already , for years now laying around here somewhere . The solenoid works and is still installed on the truck if I remember correctly . Definitely need to fix that .. looking into getting it now at the local parts store ..

 

[VIPR PWR]

Appears Rock auto has the same Dorman part at about half the price compared to advance auto . I like rock auto !

 

[HemiLonestar]

Appears Rock auto has the same Dorman part at about half the price compared to advance auto . I like rock auto !

That's where I got mine lol.

 

[VIPR PWR]

That's where I got mine lol.

I’ve bought lots for vehicles from them … I’m trying to figure out what other things I need , I have 2 trucks , the 10 and a beater Dakota work truck ….
I need the hood struts for the 10 , seems I waited to long none on rock auto .. looking around for the closest to stock I can find but it appears everyone shows different sizes ( lengths ) hahaha ,, IM SO CONFUSED ! hahaha back to figuring out other little tid bits I need

 

[VIPR PWR]

That's where I got mine lol.

Ordered the recirculation door and new hood struts ,, soon no more broom stick to prop up the hood .

When the heck did rock auto add shipping to every part in an order ,, damn , never seen that before ! $20 for shipping ,, crazy ! But still ended up cheaper than going to the local auto parts stores ..

When I get started , I’ll have my work cut out for me , brakes , painting or buffing the calipers , possibly rebuilding them , lower ball joints , hood struts and recirculation door , finding the short . Then then then who knows hahahaha ! At least I have all the parts to do those things already ,,, NOW WHERE ARE MY TOOLS .

 

[Wifey]

Git er done!!

 

[VIPR PWR]

Git er done!!

As soon as I get the recirc. Door and hood struts they will go on .. then to the brakes and she’ll cleaning . Ball joints aren’t bad yet so won’t be doing those until or if they get play in them . The sway bar end links that I thought was the ball joints fixed the loud ass clunking problem . Will be checking the brake line clamp and see if that could be the reason the brakes have locked up over and over again .. then possibly install rebuild kit .. calipers I’ll try the buffing out first and then paint if needed . Then onto the short search . I hate finding shorts ..

 

[HemiLonestar]

Ordered the recirculation door and new hood struts ,, soon no more broom stick to prop up the hood .

When the heck did rock auto add shipping to every part in an order ,, damn , never seen that before ! $20 for shipping ,, crazy ! But still ended up cheaper than going to the local auto parts stores ..

When I get started , I’ll have my work cut out for me , brakes , painting or buffing the calipers , possibly rebuilding them , lower ball joints , hood struts and recirculation door , finding the short . Then then then who knows hahahaha ! At least I have all the parts to do those things already ,,, NOW WHERE ARE MY TOOLS .

Always been that way. Not all their parts come from the same location, depending on what coming from where may vary. That's why that have that "reduce shipping" option you can check in that scenario if there is a similar part (usually made by someone else) to something you ordered that might be at the same location as your other parts.

 

[VIPR PWR]

Always been that way. Not all their parts come from the same location, depending on what coming from where may vary. That's why that have that "reduce shipping" option you can check in that scenario if there is a similar part (usually made by someone else) to something you ordered that might be at the same location as your other parts.

I guess I never noticed and I’m not going back years to check hahaha .. as long as they beat the competition I’ll deal with it .

 

[VIPR PWR]

Well crap ,, I got the blend door and it looks perfect … I ordered the hood lift struts and only received 1 … appears I only ordered 1 hahaha duh brain fart … the only number I found to contact rock auto is for their corporate headquarters and they don’t do customer service there ! I’m trying to see if they will send me the 2nd one with free shipping or send me some sort of discount code . I remember RockAuto use to post on here and gave discounts or something , are they still a vendor or whatever they were ?

At least the one I got holds the hood open for now and no more broom stick hahaha .


Went and got the 2nd strut from advance auto .. cost a bit more but still less than paying for shipping again and waiting .. save about $4 ..

 

[VIPR PWR]

Then there is the news problem ugh ! The dash panel that vents the defroster and speakers has turned brittle and when I took out my windshield sun protector found the grills at 3 location broken out and into pieces ..cheap ass plastic .. found the part at advance auto and some others online .. some were just plastic covers and not replacements … the replacement part is Dorman and at advance auto $213. .. I’m not paying that for some cheapo plastic replacement that most likely will end up doing the same thing . Just like the cheapo factory hood scoop inserts people want several hundred dollars for . I finally fount the scoop inserts for a hell of a lot cheaper and we’re exactly the same as factory .. crazy ass prices for junk plastic isnt my thing !

 

[VIPR PWR]

Get the Dorman door (p/n 902325) with the metal end piece. Replacing the door is fairly easy, especially if you have small hands (I unfortunately don't lol) because you can go straight up through where the fan is. Getting to that solenoid behind the amp is the mofo. FYI there is a hidden bolt on the back side of that friggin thing that will drive you insane.

So putting the door in through the blower motor opening is the simple part .. can the AMP be removed or loosened easily to move it a little out of the way ? What kind of tool did you use to remove the actuator ? Screw driver ( stubby or offset type ) or a quarter inch drive ratchet with screw driver bit maybe with and extension and or swivel head ?

 

[HemiLonestar]

So putting the door in through the blower motor opening is the simple part .. can the AMP be removed or loosened easily to move it a little out of the way ? What kind of tool did you use to remove the actuator ? Screw driver ( stubby or offset type ) or a quarter inch drive ratchet with screw driver bit maybe with and extension and or swivel head ?

Yes the amp can be removed, once you remove the glove box there are 3 bolts; 2 are easy, it's the one towards the back that's the fucker. Reasonably certain the actuator screws were philips and I used a combo of stubby, right angle and a ¼ drive ratchet with a philips bit and alot, ALOT of patience. Most of it was done by feel. My hands were torn to shreds after that job.

 

[VIPR PWR]

Yes the amp can be removed, once you remove the glove box there are 3 bolts; 2 are easy, it's the one towards the back that's the fucker. Reasonably certain the actuator screws were philips and I used a combo of stubby, right angle and a ¼ drive ratchet with a philips bit and alot, ALOT of patience. Most of it was done by feel. My hands were torn to shreds after that job.

Ok thanks , sounds like a pain either way .. the old eyes aren’t the best so using the feel method should be fine .. at least I should have all the tools I need . Of course shredding the hands could be a major problem and I may have to skip taking the stupid blood thinner . Sure as hell wouldn’t want to be spewing my blood all over the truck or wiring and cause another short hahahaha !