Anti-wrap bar (not Cal-tracs)

[thjones3]

It doesn't appear that this has been done on a SRT-10. I think there may be a few 3/4 link setups, but I'm just trying to find a new and less expensive way reduce wheel hop and spring wrap. I will either build a ladder bar or I am even considering removing the anti-wrap shock and putting a solid bar in there with some heims. Maybe I will start with replacing the anti-wrap bar and see how it works out. I may also have to check the mounts to make sure they can handle the extra load. Factory welding isn't always the best and I may add some reinforcement to the mounts to be on the safe side. I can't think of a down-side to replacing that shock with a solid link. What say you?

 

[mysrt10]

it seems to me that having a solid link would be too stiff causing an excessive amount of wheel spin. i have justin's (JMB performance) adjustable QA-1. when i installed mine along with cal-tracs instead of the rear of the sliding out to the right with heavy wheel spin the truck remains pointed straight with a more controlable amount of spin. IMO this is the most cost effective traction solver.

 

[4DR VYPR]

Ditto

it seems to me that having a solid link would be too stiff causing an excessive amount of wheel spin. i have justin's (JMB performance) adjustable QA-1. when i installed mine along with cal-tracs instead of the rear of the sliding out to the right with heavy wheel spin the truck remains pointed straight with a more controlable amount of spin. IMO this is the most cost effective traction solver.

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

You can do an adjustable link and replace the shock, but it will probably cause a little more wheel spin, but it could work out good also as long as the rear of the truck still squats.

the best thing for traction I have found so far is a couple things.

1. move the battery to the rear.

2. remove at least one, if not two springs from the rear spring pack, leave the bottom one in and remove the next two, the pack is very tight for the RC's, mainly for handling, but for the track it doesnt let the front transfer the wieght to the back end.

3. is removing the sway bar links in the front , letting the front rise and transfer wieght to the rear axle.

but axle wrap is what destroy's the spiders in the axle, the axle wraps up, starts hopping and shocks the spiders enough to break them.

whether its a solid adjsutable bar inplace of the shock, or caltracs, you need something to keep the wrap to a minimum.

man my speelin sux

 

[thjones3]

I don't see how it would be stiffer than Caltracs. My understanding is that Caltracs is basically a solid link between the u-bolt plate and the spring eye. You can pre-load the suspension with the Caltracs, but you could do that with an adjustable solid link as well. The only way that I can see the Caltracs as possibly being more forgiving is that the mounting point on the axle is much closer to rotation than the anti-wrap bar would be. I am not saying you guys are wrong, but quantify your argument. How would it be stiffer than Caltracs? Am I mis-understanding how Caltracs works?

 

[thjones3]

Borrowed from Stinker,

Tremendous benefits can be realized when the CALTRACS traction bar system is installed on a leaf spring suspended automobile. CALTRACS traction bars were developed to achieve specific goals to improve high power traction while staying within hard set NHRA parameters.

Each of the two assemblies needed is comprised of three basic components:

1.Front Pivot

2.Force Transfer Link

3.Rear Mount

The combination of these components changes the pushing point on the car by redirecting the turning action (spring wrap-up) of the rear axle through the Force Transfer Link into the Front Pivot. The Front Pivot Spring Stop Bolt resists this turning motion and also controls the bending of the leaf spring at its thinnest section. The push into the Front Pivot helps the cars weight shift towards the rear of the car because of a new directed angle of force toward the front of the vehicle. (The "Instant Center" moves farther forward). This is where the system emulates a Four link system. The pinion angle is also maintained. (See illustration)

Sounds like there may be some give in the system due to the bending of the link under load as well, although it should be minimal.

 

[mysrt10]

with caltracs installed the leaf spring still give ample squat. by making a solid link on top of the axle the any previous flex will be gone correct :dontknow: thus making it stiffer. i'm not trying to smash your idea by any means that is just what i'd imagine happening.

 

[FATJACK]

It doesn't appear that this has been done on a SRT-10. I think there may be a few 3/4 link setups, but I'm just trying to find a new and less expensive way reduce wheel hop and spring wrap. I will either build a ladder bar or I am even considering removing the anti-wrap shock and putting a solid bar in there with some heims. Maybe I will start with replacing the anti-wrap bar and see how it works out. I may also have to check the mounts to make sure they can handle the extra load. Factory welding isn't always the best and I may add some reinforcement to the mounts to be on the safe side. I can't think of a down-side to replacing that shock with a solid link. What say you?

Already Done...Google "Bears Performance" then click on Ramrod

 

[thjones3]

Already Done...Google "Bears Performance" then click on Ramrod

Couldn't find it on the website. Have a link?:dontknow:

 

[thjones3]

with caltracs installed the leaf spring still give ample squat. by making a solid link on top of the axle the any previous flex will be gone correct :dontknow: thus making it stiffer. i'm not trying to smash your idea by any means that is just what i'd imagine happening.

I think you are confusing squat with axle wrap. Axle wrap is where the springs try to counter act the rotational force of the axle, giving the spring an "s" shape. The suspension travel (or squat) should not really be affected.

 

[FATJACK]

Couldn't find it on the website. Have a link?:dontknow:

Why shit no....try it again.:dontknow:

 

[JTS VENOM PERFORMANCE]

I think you are confusing squat with axle wrap. Axle wrap is where the springs try to counter act the rotational force of the axle, giving the spring an "s" shape. The suspension travel (or squat) should not really be affected.

You'll have to exuces me thjones, i got a littel head prob right now and the pain medicine si kicking in

but a bar replaceing the shock with a solid bar is going to do no more than stop the rotation of the axle, the wrap in other words. Up and down travel should not be affected.

but the difference between the rod and the caltax is , with the caltrax mounted on bottom the unit would take the force from the axle wrapping in a twisting motion from the bottom forward.

the rod being on top would take the force actaullly in a pulling motion, the pinion under acceleration wants to lift. so the rod would keep the top of the axle from rotatting backwards, but woulndt be able to stop the axle from wrapping as good as the caltracs, since the bottom pivot of the axle would still be able to pivot forward a certain degree, by bending the leaf springs.

dang I am not sure that made sense to me

 

[mysrt10]

thanks stinker i could never have explained it better.

 

[Tooloe]

i think having a bar in place would help and it's prolly worth the 10 bucks to try it before you spend 400 on caltracs

 

[HaroldD]

I vote for Caltracs. They do more than just resist axle housing rotation, they transfer that rotational force into a downward force on the top of the leaf spring, effectively planting the rear of the truck more when the axle's trying to rotate.

 

[thjones3]

Thanks everyone! Stinker, that does make sense. I've got the tubing already, so it won't really cost me anything to do it. Maybe I can go to the track and do a couple runs with the shock and then a couple with the bar. I'll try it and see if there is any improvement. :burnout:

 

[HaroldD]

The concern I would have is what length do you set the bar at? If it's too long, it will rotate the housing nose up under suspension compression, hosing ujoint angles. Maybe not that critical, but just a thought...

 

[Yellow venom]

You'll have to exuces me thjones, i got a littel head prob right now and the pain medicine si kicking in

but a bar replaceing the shock with a solid bar is going to do no more than stop the rotation of the axle, the wrap in other words. Up and down travel should not be affected.

but the difference between the rod and the caltax is , with the caltrax mounted on bottom the unit would take the force from the axle wrapping in a twisting motion from the bottom forward.

the rod being on top would take the force actaullly in a pulling motion, the pinion under acceleration wants to lift. so the rod would keep the top of the axle from rotatting backwards, but woulndt be able to stop the axle from wrapping as good as the caltracs, since the bottom pivot of the axle would still be able to pivot forward a certain degree, by bending the leaf springs.

dang I am not sure that made sense to me

Very well put Stinker:congrats: