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FastRam

FastRam

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Last night we had a towel ring fall off a bathroom wall. After I removed what was left of the ring's support bracket and the mold infested drywall I discovered the previous owner of my North 40 either failed or neglected to use a stud/pipe finder before he drilled into the drywall. Yep, he drilled three holes into a 3" schedule 40 IPC PVC waste line that services a second floor bathroom. Two of the holes are dead center in the pipe. The third is slightly to the right of one of the holes. I guess he "missed his mark" trying to hand the friggin' towel ring :dontknow:

My question is can I use PVC dowel rods sized slightly larger than the holes to plug them? I plan to use PVC glue and the purple primer to hold the plugs in place. The hole diameter is approximately 3/16".
 
its a temp fix the right way to do it is to cut all the sheet rock out and replce the damaged piece of pvc pipe ...another reason i would also go this wai is to get all the damaged(mildew) sheetrock and lumber out of there and dispose of it!!
 
505'sFastestViper. said:
its a temp fix the right way to do it is to cut all the sheet rock out and replce the damaged piece of pvc pipe ...another reason i would also go this wai is to get all the damaged(mildew) sheetrock and lumber out of there and dispose of it!!
Click to expand...
Agreed thats the only way to go.:rock:
 
they also make a pipe repair kit (looks like a piece of pipe cut in two the long way ) you could use this while you remove all the bad molded stuff.
 
I was thinking about that too. But my problem is the wall cavity depth is also the same dimension as the outer pipe wall diameter. I don't think a slip coupling will fit in the cavity without the drywall bulging out. Is there a coupling I could use that slips into the pipe instead of over it? And luckily the drywall damages weren't too bad and the surrounding wood studs were OK. As a precaution they got a decent Clorox bath.
 
Actually since it isn't under pressure, I'd be inclined to use some of that epoxy putty that you can repair gas tanks with etc. May not be the proper way to fix it but since we're only talking about 3 little holes, I'd give it a shot. Leave the wall open for about a week and see if there's any leakage.
 
FastRam said:
I was thinking about that too. But my problem is the wall cavity depth is also the same dimension as the outer pipe wall diameter. I don't think a slip coupling will fit in the cavity without the drywall bulging out. Is there a coupling I could use that slips into the pipe instead of over it? And luckily the drywall damages weren't too bad and the surrounding wood studs were OK. As a precaution they got a decent Clorox bath.
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Use the repair kit , then cut a hole, / slot in the drywall for clearence, fill the hole with Fix All (it is water proof) then tape over it.
 
includemeout said:
Use the repair kit , then cut a hole, / slot in the drywall for clearence, fill the hole with Fix All (it is water proof) then tape over it.
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Are these parts and materials available at a Home Depot/Lowes? I already have a hole cut out in the drywall, bye bye damaged wall board.
 
SilvrSRT10 said:
Actually since it isn't under pressure, I'd be inclined to use some of that epoxy putty that you can repair gas tanks with etc. May not be the proper way to fix it but since we're only talking about 3 little holes, I'd give it a shot. Leave the wall open for about a week and see if there's any leakage.
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Hmmm... :idea: You may have something there.
 
FastRam said:
Hmmm... :idea: You may have something there.
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I'm not a licensed plumber. Just a jack of all trades. Can do a little of everything but expert in only one (garage doors). So heed the advice of those who specialize. Good luck with your project.
 
SilvrSRT10 said:
I'm not a licensed plumber. Just a jack of all trades. Can do a little of everything but expert in only one (garage doors). So heed the advice of those who specialize. Good luck with your project.
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Where were you when I needed help LOL just took down two huge industrial rollups by myself, them things are heavy (^$*&$&$ :D
 
includemeout said:
Where were you when I needed help LOL just took down two huge industrial rollups by myself, them things are heavy (^$*&$&$ :D
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You are right about that. I've done them up to 14 wide X 16 tall. Don't like them. If a customer calls wanting them we usually steer them to one of the big commercial companies. With it being just my 70 YO father and myself (not getting any younger), we just don't want to be dealing with those sizes and weights involved with the rolling steel doors. Even the little ones are challenging.
 
SilvrSRT10 said:
You are right about that. I've done them up to 14 wide X 16 tall. Don't like them. If a customer calls wanting them we usually steer them to one of the big commercial companies. With it being just my 70 YO father and myself (not getting any younger), we just don't want to be dealing with those sizes and weights involved with the rolling steel doors. Even the little ones are challenging.
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These were 16x10 and 10x10. Welded a 20' lenght of 3" angle to the mounting brackets(made a ramp) and walked them down with c clamps ( after all the straping and such) a whole lot of fun, getting them on the trailer was fun too!!! :( :D :D
 
includemeout said:
These were 16x10 and 10x10. Welded a 20' lenght of 3" angle to the mounting brackets(made a ramp) and walked them down with c clamps ( after all the straping and such) a whole lot of fun, getting them on the trailer was fun too!!! :( :D :D
Click to expand...
I feel your pain. I bet that 16x10 was a bear to work with. I rented a fork lift for the 14x16's but it didn't reach. Had to build a 3 ft. tall platform and set the door on it and then lift the whole thing. I was pretty nervous working on that one.
 
expoxy putty, works like a charm. i used to fix a crack in copper water line to the sink in bathroom. been 3 years and no leaks
 
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