Bigger Radiators for FI trucks?

[nycstev]

I remember having this discussion of bigger more effective radiators to handle the xtra heat discussion with Ken (NBT ) at the 07 Nats ( drunk of course).

I'm interested to hear opinions on this.

 

[Dom426]

i dont think that you need it

 

[TNVIPER]

No cooling problems with my truck?..:dontknow:

 

[nycstev]

yeahs 0

nays 2

 

[Chuck B]

Personally I think these trucks need better cooling in stock trim. Granted Phoenix is a bit warmer than most areas but I find mine often runs with the temp gauge higher than the factory thermostat setting. Using my ScanGaugeII to give more accurate readings, only when temps get down around 90F does the water temp stay at what the thermostat setting while motoring down the highway.

Get in stop and go traffic, heavy on the throttle or temps in upper 90F or above and its consistently 200-210F. An easy fix would be to activate the cooling fans sooner but you'd think stock these should be able to shed enough heat in 'normal' driving situations from the factory showroom.

 

[Texas Yellow Fever]

A cool engine is a happy engine, especially when it's FI. I say you can't overdo the cooling...and I believe that better fans, bigger/more efficient radiators, lower thermostats etc are all good things...but that's just me...and my old school ways...but then I like headers too, so what do I know...

 

[Pretyflywiteguy]

Personally I think these trucks need better cooling in stock trim. Granted Phoenix is a bit warmer than most areas but I find mine often runs with the temp gauge higher than the factory thermostat setting. Using my ScanGaugeII to give more accurate readings, only when temps get down around 90F does the water temp stay at what the thermostat setting while motoring down the highway.

Get in stop and go traffic, heavy on the throttle or temps in upper 90F or above and its consistently 200-210F. An easy fix would be to activate the cooling fans sooner but you'd think stock these should be able to shed enough heat in 'normal' driving situations from the factory showroom.

200-210* is an industry standard for emissions, its not inefficient cooling systems. A new thermostat and a tune to change the fan settings is all you need to do to lower the opperating temps. My car runs at a constant 170* even sitting in traffic on 100* + days.

 

[nycstev]

200-210* is an industry standard for emissions, its not inefficient cooling systems. A new thermostat and a tune to change the fan settings is all you need to do to lower the opperating temps. My car runs at a constant 170* even sitting in traffic on 100* + days.

I am talking about FORCED INDUCTION ENGINES OR ANY OTHER MODIFICATIONS WHICH ADD A SIGNIFCANT AMOUNT OF ADDITIONAL HEAT TO THIS SYSTEM

 

[nycstev]

I think that with FI a better cooling system is in order

Yeahs 3

Nays 2

 

[Scrambler1]

I lived in Ga and even in 100% humidity at 90+ degrees mine would stay at its normal temp. IMO it's not needed. That was with a Paxton and long tube headers.

 

[TNVIPER]

Mine is FI with a 10LB pulley...almost twice the pressure it came with from Roe....I have no problems cooling....truck stays in the 180s while in the staging lanes at 90+ degrees & 90+ humidity.....works much better than the SRT8 I owned...that hemi would not stay under 200 in traffic w/o a manual switched fan..

 

[Pretyflywiteguy]

I am talking about FORCED INDUCTION ENGINES OR ANY OTHER MODIFICATIONS WHICH ADD A SIGNIFCANT AMOUNT OF ADDITIONAL HEAT TO THIS SYSTEM

200-210* is an industry standard for emissions, its not inefficient cooling systems.

Don't be a jackass, I was giving you my oppinion like you asked. The computer monitors coolant temperature and when it reaches a certain point it kicks the fans on. Whether you have a blower or a stroker, if you haven't changed the settings in the computer/ put in a new thermostat, the temperature isn't going to go up its going to get to operating temp quicker depending on outside temp like usual. Underhood temps, oil temps, coolant temps and tranny temps are not the same thing.

 

[nycstev]

200-210* is an industry standard for emissions, its not inefficient cooling systems.

Don't be a jackass, I was giving you my oppinion like you asked. The computer monitors coolant temperature and when it reaches a certain point it kicks the fans on. Whether you have a blower or a stroker, if you haven't changed the settings in the computer/ put in a new thermostat, the temperature isn't going to go up its going to get to operating temp quicker depending on outside temp like usual. Underhood temps, oil temps, coolant temps and tranny temps are not the same thing.

The temp on mine went up to 200 as soon as it was Blown.befor that it ran cooler. And BTW im not a Jackass . Im a grasshopper.:burnout:

 

[yellowfever#154]

With the ROE on my truck temps were higher in the staging lanes. On cool 15-20 C nights I couldnt get it below 200 F. I never had the fan computer flash, maybe shoulda.

 

[nycstev]

With the ROE on my truck temps were higher in the staging lanes. On cool 15-20 C nights I couldnt get it below 200 F. I never had the fan computer flash, maybe shoulda.

I have flash and still is at 200. Maybe the flash is NG?

 

[DevilDawg3097]

Mine before the s/c and flash would got to 200+ which is normal for aluminum blocks to even run at 220 degrees bought the sct sean flashed it to kick on at 180 and with the s/c it still stays at 180. so yeah you need the flash or put electric fans in.

 

[nycstev]

Mine before the s/c and flash would got to 200+ which is normal for aluminum blocks to even run at 220 degrees bought the sct sean flashed it to kick on at 180 and with the s/c it still stays at 180. so yeah you need the flash or put electric fans in.

I agreee Mr Dawg

 

[FerrariTruck]

I have flash and still is at 200. Maybe the flash is NG?

You need a tune on the dyno where they can dial the timing in just right... This should take care of the issue...Do have meth injection? Thats another alternative...

 

[Pretyflywiteguy]

Are the sensors in these trucks actual sensors that work? The reason I ask is because in 99-02 LS1 Fbodies, the gauge in the dash are dummy gauges, so even when a 160* Tstat is installed the gauge still reads 200 like before. When hooked up to a scanner it shows the tstat is working and the coolant is running at 170 ish.

 

[LoveThisTruck]

I have flash and still is at 200. Maybe the flash is NG?

Mine stays around 180 as long as I'm on the highway and it's cool out side. Once I hit traffic, or if it gets warm out side... it goes right to 200-210. I'm having an aftercooler installed when I do my build. We'll see how that works