Black not so Beauty... Swirl marks gotta GO!

SD2005Dustin

SD2005Dustin

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Black not-so-beauty...:(

Since I've had my ten I've been disgusted with the swirl marks and a few scratches.

The other night I clay barred a part of her and started with a rubbing compound(by hand). I started to see some results and did one spot twice. Then there were just a few left.

But how many times can I go over this (by hand) before it gets dangerous... as far as takin off too much clearcoat?

I know everyone on here raves about the porter cable. I have a craftsman buffer. havent used it yet. I need to buy some pads for it. What shoud I use just terry cloth? I have some wool bonnets how do you clean those up to use them? Is the wool bonnet too harsh?
 
Stop at your local automotive paint supplier. They can help you sort through what products to use with what you have. I use 3M products and each requires a specific pad (synth, wool, foam etc). Swirl marks are very easy to deal with and in my experience can be done with one or two of the final polishing steps thus removal of clear coat is very minimal. I would never use a rubbing or polishing compound for simply swirl marks...far too aggressive. A foam pad on med speed with light application of 3M dark color buffing compound would restore to better than new condition.
 
Don't use a (rotary) buffer on a black car.... not unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing. That said:

You can be 99.99999% sure that you will NOT burn through your clearcoat when working with compound by hand. Really no chance.... you would actually have to be trying really hard to purposely burn through. And even doing that, I don't think you could do it.

Go to Lowes and buy a Porter Cable 7345SP. They sell them for $109. But, DO NOT use the pad or backing plate that comes with it. Go HERE and get that backing plate.... then go HERE and get these pads..... then :D get some Miguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional #105 and #205 compound.

Follow the instructions on the bottles and have FUN! :D :rock:
 
SD2005Dustin said:
Black not-so-beauty...:(

Since I've had my ten I've been disgusted with the swirl marks and a few scratches.

The other night I clay barred a part of her and started with a rubbing compound(by hand). I started to see some results and did one spot twice. Then there were just a few left.

But how many times can I go over this (by hand) before it gets dangerous... as far as takin off too much clearcoat?

I know everyone on here raves about the porter cable. I have a craftsman buffer. havent used it yet. I need to buy some pads for it. What shoud I use just terry cloth? I have some wool bonnets how do you clean those up to use them? Is the wool bonnet too harsh?
Click to expand...

Yea man, id go with a dual action polisher. Since you're in SoCal you can go to a Meguiars training session as well for tips...I believe they conduct the classes in Irvine. I also think they're free...

Here's a good deal on a Porter Cable polisher:

http://www.tools-plus.com/porter-cable-7424xp-lckit.html
 
Last edited:
Black1 said:
Don't use a (rotary) buffer on a black car.... not unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing. That said:

You can be 99.99999% sure that you will NOT burn through your clearcoat when working with compound by hand. Really no chance.... you would actually have to be trying really hard to purposely burn through. And even doing that, I don't think you could do it.

Go to Lowes and buy a Porter Cable 7345SP. They sell them for $109. But, DO NOT use the pad or backing plate that comes with it. Go HERE and get that backing plate.... then go HERE and get these pads..... then :D get some Miguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional #105 and #205 compound.

Follow the instructions on the bottles and have FUN! :D :rock:
Click to expand...

Can't go wrong with the Meg's stuff. Black1, have you ever tried the Lake Country pads?
 
Black1 said:
Don't use a (rotary) buffer on a black car.... not unless you know EXACTLY what you're doing. That said:

You can be 99.99999% sure that you will NOT burn through your clearcoat when working with compound by hand. Really no chance.... you would actually have to be trying really hard to purposely burn through. And even doing that, I don't think you could do it.

Go to Lowes and buy a Porter Cable 7345SP. They sell them for $109. But, DO NOT use the pad or backing plate that comes with it. Go HERE and get that backing plate.... then go HERE and get these pads..... then :D get some Miguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional #105 and #205 compound.

Follow the instructions on the bottles and have FUN! :D :rock:
Click to expand...
Jake, thanks for the tip. Great website for amateur detailers (like me). I needed a way to clean the recessed lug nuts. (on the Caddy) Sure enough, they have an item! Thanks again.:rock:
 
joemags54 said:
Jake, thanks for the tip. Great website for amateur detailers (like me). I needed a way to clean the recessed lug nuts. (on the Caddy) Sure enough, they have an item! Thanks again.:rock:
Click to expand...

No problem. :) They are great to work with... Michael is always on Meguiar's Online helping folks with detailing issues.
 
USMC11 said:
Can't go wrong with the Meg's stuff. Black1, have you ever tried the Lake Country pads?
Click to expand...

I haven't... but I've heard good things about them. I've always used Meguiar's Soft Buff pads. But, when they had some issues with the backing, I switched to Griot's pads. They weren't as good but they were durable. :eek: Now that Meg's SB 2.0 pads have been out for a while, and I've seen no issues from anyone using them, I will switch back to them soon.
 
I went to the meguires class and had a really good time. I was thinking of calling mike and getting something setup for us to enjoy. I use a porter cable, and depending on the scratch / swirl really depends on the product and pad. I've been working on the new cars factory paint, as it has swirl marks (darn dealers heheh)
 
Go to Youtube and do a search on Junkman. Everything you want to learn about paint care he covers it. I was always afraid to run a buffer on a car and now it is second nature to use one for me.

Bruce
 
Also if you want to go with something simple, the Megs ultimate compound is pretty good.
 
USMC11 said:
Also if you want to go with something simple, the Megs ultimate compound is pretty good.
Click to expand...

I've actually been using that on some customer cars lately (because I've been over the limit on my 'work' account and bought it from AutoZone). It's been pretty good for working out mild swirls with a D/A. :) :rock:
 
Black1 said:
I've actually been using that on some customer cars lately (because I've been over the limit on my 'work' account and bought it from AutoZone). It's been pretty good for working out mild swirls with a D/A. :) :rock:
Click to expand...

Thats cool.

Yea one thing I like about it is that it works in nicely but doesn't dry up too quick so you can make several passes without worrying about the powdery white flakes at all.
 
Black 1,

What kind of wax do you use/prefer? I've been using the Megs NXT 2.0 and it looks great but doesn't seem to last terribly long. I'd say with using the NXT ideally I should be waxing 2x per month. I've heard a lot of people rave about Rejex on this site but have read mixed reviews elsewhere, especially for black vehicles. Ever try Rejex?
 
USMC11 said:
Black 1,

What kind of wax do you use/prefer? I've been using the Megs NXT 2.0 and it looks great but doesn't seem to last terribly long. I'd say with using the NXT ideally I should be waxing 2x per month. I've heard a lot of people rave about Rejex on this site but have read mixed reviews elsewhere, especially for black vehicles. Ever try Rejex?
Click to expand...

Nope, I haven't tried Rejex. .... just can't get past the name, I guess. :dontknow: :D ;)

I use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #26 (High Tech Yellow Wax) as my final step product. However, that's just what I've always used. It just works well for me. ... There are several "boutique" brands out there people love too.
 
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